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Can Any one let me know how to fit DCC Decoder units to 00 4mm Kits ?

How should they be wired ?

Should they be wired so that they can be used with normal DC controle as well ?

and which is the best Decoder to use with kits ?

Peter Harvey
 

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The problem with kit built loco's is the shorts that are possible, with the brass frames.
In the past I've favoured insulated drivers on both sides. Super glue is great for insualtion where you do find a short. Avoid if possible current collection on one pole through the wheels(one side) through the chassis to one pole of the motor. Rather have pickup's for both poles.
Wiring is simple, red/black to pickups, orange/grey to motor terminals. For whats it's worth, I don't run kit built loco's anymore, there are just too many areas where they can short. I normally try to substitute a commerical chassis. For instance:
Hornby 8F chassis can be very sucessfully used under the DJH body.
Bachmann 3F Jinty has the same wheel spacings as the Hornby 4F but needs larger
wheels. So I'm sure you can find a commercial chassis for your Big Bertha what about the new Bachmann 9F ?.
 

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QUOTE (Peter_Harvey @ 20 Mar 2006, 20:58)Can Any one let me know how to fit DCC Decoder units to 00 4mm Kits ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

"kits" sometimes implies coreless motors in which case you must be sure to use a decoder branded as "high frequency", "silent", "ultrasonic" or a similar marketing term and make sure that it is configured as such. Low frequency PWM drive can destroy coreless motors.

Andrew
 

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There was a piece in one of the model magazines about the issue of wiring a decoder onto a motor of the type used by DC kits, but i can't remember whether it was the black beetle or the tenshodo spud. You need to basically isolate the motor from the pickups and wire the decoder as stated above. I'd give DC kits a try and see if they recommend any particular decoder. They have a website.
 

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I usually add pickups to the insulated side wheels using those neat Hornby wire pickups. I'll replace the chassis plate with a plate made PCB, if it has one, slit down the middle to seperate the conductive sides. I generally use a NWSL gearbox with Mashima motor as they are easy to get down here and you don't have to worry about insulating the brushes. I'll set the tender up the same way as the loco with the insulated wheels on the same side and wire the drawbar thru to the chassis. On something like a 3F I'd add pickups to both sides just to make sure it does pick up. If yous use something like an open frame motor you would have to insulate the motor from loco chassis and insulate the brushes from the motor.

Ozzie 21
 
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