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QUOTE (harkins77 @ 24 Jul 2008, 02:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>ok thanks for that Richard.

For connecting the droppers to the main bus would you recommend wrapping the dropper wires round the main bus wire and then soldering them together or just wrap the droppers onto the bus wire and then wrap it in tape just in case there is a problem later

***Always solder them.

Richard
 

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Hi Harkins,

You can actually get some crimp type connectors which pierce the outer sheathing on the bus wire to make an electrical connection with the core. Might be worth getting a few to use as temporary connections until you are 100% satisfied with the whole wiring layout.

They are available from Express Models at this web site

www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/index.html

Look under the "No Solder Power Bus Kit'.

Expat.
 

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QUOTE (Expat @ 24 Jul 2008, 10:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Harkins,

You can actually get some crimp type connectors which pierce the outer sheathing on the bus wire to make an electrical connection with the core. Might be worth getting a few to use as temporary connections until you are 100% satisfied with the whole wiring layout.

They are available from Express Models at this web site

www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/index.html

Look under the "No Solder Power Bus Kit'.

Expat.

Hello.
These are also available from Rapid Electronics.They are called Crimp Blade Splice.

http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.asp...&kw=330190#

The order no you need is 33-0190 for the crimp & 33-0665 for the connector which fits into the above. I buy them by the bag of 100.

I am building my layout 21ft x 9ft at the moment & I am using them. They are easy to fit & if you have problems or want to move the splice to another location you can just take it off. A good strong pliars is what you need for the blue splice & a cheap crimp tool for the red blades which fit to your droppers.

If you want to know any more just let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well I spoke to Maplins on the retail park which is a massive store and they said they would have to order in the 32/0.2 cable on a reel so that I can get the length I need without cutting. I phoned the maplins in middlesbrough today which is a much smaller store but has been there for years since I was a kid and they have all the reels of the stuff I'm going to need and for both the red and black wire I want they have quoted me £20.50 for 15 meters of both colours in total which I think is pretty good. I will ask them when I go get the wire tomorrow about the connectors you guys are talking about but from previous experiance I am going to strip the area where the droppers are going to go then solder the wires in place and then I'm going to cover the joints in electrical tape so that the bare wires are covered properly.

So by the end of the weekend I should have all wires powered and up and running. Woohoo....
 

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QUOTE (Brian Considine @ 24 Jul 2008, 21:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>They are also available from Maplins, Halfords & Motor Factors/Accesory Outlets. Some people don't like them, but they do carry some quite high currents in automotive use. Like all connectors, they have to be fitted correctly.

*** For heavens sake, Solder them!

You are quite right Brian, they are popular for automotive use by the DIY set and OK for connecting a light in your trailer but have to be fitted correctly.

They CAN be a good connector for the things they were designed for but That also means the right tools and not pliers.

They also need to be the correct connector for the sizes of wire used to be reliable connectors. There are lots of knock off brands and in my experience only the original 3M Scotchlock brand are totally up to scratch.

There are also different spec connectors for stranded or solid wire. The connector will, if not properly chosen and properly crimped either be inadequate or cut into the wire and be resistive. Also if the wrong one is used or if the right tool is not used it will be susceptible to atmospheric action and it will deteriorate with time.

Sorry guys but one thing I do know from troubleshooting many modellers layout problems is that they are rarely as conscientious as they should be with wiring quality and as to the correct fitting, correct tool and correct choice of connector for wire (ie connects wire size A to wire size
....

Those are all things that most modellers will compromise on somewhere so almost never get totally right, which is why taking the time to learn to solder properly and soldering them is the best way to do it in the first place.

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 24 Jul 2008, 18:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*** For heavens sake, Solder them!

Richard
DCCconcepts

Yes Richard I agree but I suggested them as temporary connectors in case harkins need to rearrange the bus during installation.

Having said that I would think the complete set up provide by Express models (including the right tools)should be compatible and reliable. I sincerely hope so because I purchased one, though that was before I joined the MRF and became the beneficiary of your wisdom.

Cheers,

Trevor.
 

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QUOTE (harkins77 @ 24 Jul 2008, 13:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Well I spoke to Maplins on the retail park which is a massive store and they said they would have to order in the 32/0.2 cable on a reel so that I can get the length I need without cutting. I phoned the maplins in middlesbrough today which is a much smaller store but has been there for years since I was a kid and they have all the reels of the stuff I'm going to need and for both the red and black wire I want they have quoted me £20.50 for 15 meters of both colours in total which I think is pretty good. I will ask them when I go get the wire tomorrow about the connectors you guys are talking about but from previous experiance I am going to strip the area where the droppers are going to go then solder the wires in place and then I'm going to cover the joints in electrical tape so that the bare wires are covered properly.

So by the end of the weekend I should have all wires powered and up and running. Woohoo....

Hello.

You may find the cable you wany here at a better price.
http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.asp...p;uos=Reel,100m

What Richard said about the T Splice connectors is correct in that like any product, used correctly they do what they are supposed to do but the operative word here is Correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks for the link Tony but I have already looked at that one and it works out more expensive by about 3 or 4 pounds and that is even without the postage. It's only a 5 mins drive to the Maplins that has the wire I require so that has pretty much swayed my decision really.
 

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QUOTE (harkins77 @ 24 Jul 2008, 15:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the link Tony but I have already looked at that one and it works out more expensive by about 3 or 4 pounds and that is even without the postage. It's only a 5 mins drive to the Maplins that has the wire I require so that has pretty much swayed my decision really.

Hello.
Good for you. Take your time & enjoy. Its a great feeling when you get something to work as you want it to. Just remember there is plenty of help here should you need it.
 

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*** For heavens sake, Solder them!

Richard is right i always solder my wires in making the dropper wire in line with the bus wire after moving the heatshrink cut to length beforehand over the joint and apply heat to seal it in.
At the end of the day it is down to choice of course ............
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok so I went and got the wire I need for the bus wire when I was out this morning on the way to the docs for a checkup.

I didn't get a chance to do it today but I will try and get it done tomorrow after I return to from the Hartlepool model show.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
well I was going to wire the bus wires to my layout today but due to some discomfort caused by an unknown entity I am finding it hard to stand up for any length of time so it seems as if it is going to have to wait for another day at least until the pain calms down a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok so now I am semi well again after my pulled muscle I decided once i had woken from my nightshift to have a go at 90% finishing off my wiring of the layout.

Everything went well putting the bus wires to the board and also connecting the dropper wires to it as well.

And I can confirm that after a slight little oversight by myself ( accidently connecting 1 set of droppers to the wrong polarity) that the layout is now up and running apart from the depot/sidings area. All the passing loops work well and I am pleased to announce I am finally the proud owner of a working 3 running line layout.

Thanks to everyone who has helped me in the wiring of this layout as I couldn't have done it without your help. Now for the unenviable task of doing the backboards surrounds and scenic design.
 

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Glad you have got it going. It's great to get something up & running. You might post a few photos sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yeah well I had some slight issues with dirty track seeing as I didn't clean it from removing it from the old layout but once I get things settled I'm going to send round my atlas track cleaner behind the drs loco I know works round the track.

I will get some pictures online sometime tomorrow as I'm jiggered after being in the shed doing the wiring for nearly 7 hours and seeing as I only went to bed at 7am this morning after working a nightshift and I woke up at midday and then basically started on the wiring straight away. My back is killing me.lol.

Just need to replace the kato straight sections with peco flexi track now and also put the dropper wires down for those 3 lines now and I am done. I thought just getting the 3 running lines working first along with the passing loops would suffice for today.
 
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