QUOTE (Piemanlarger @ 2 Feb 2008, 02:56)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ls 150 have been ordered. One layout is going to have around 18 points, the other 12.
Richard, is the "Fix" something I buy or information?
** Actually it is both. It will depend on the cause of the problem.
Most of the time there are no issues, however Peco point motors are pretty primitive bits of gear and they can be helped to do a better job. Adding the switches peco supply often makes them work less well (actually, always makes them work less well!). There are better ways to get proper feedback and throw the frog polarity etc... thats the bit U buy
Tip #1: Its only takes a short time to do it but makes a BIG difference to layout long term reliability. Ignore those who say "I never do it and never have a problem - BS - I have never seen a layout using unmodified Peco that didn't have the odd problem that could be avoided so easily.... a Peco point will always eventually fail in contact between blade and either stock and closure rail no matter how well you lay or test them - Of course Murhys law is always in play here so usually this will first happen an hour after the ballast is dry.....
So: to the "point" of this comment.... Modify them all to bond moving point rail to closure rails, cut a proper frog gap in the closure rails and wire the now switchable frog to a suitable switch.
This link shows "best practice"
http://www.mrol.com.au/LiveFrogWiring.aspx
(However personally I don't think much of the Peco Switches as they add to the loading and can create problems)
Tip #2: Never use the extended pins between motor and point.
Tip #3: Install and align the point motors perfectly
before you lay the points. When aligned use a dab of some epoxy or similar to fix them - just a wee bit - in addition to those ugly peco tabs. This makes a difference.
Before you install them in the layout take a cotton bud and some plain old vaseline. Put vaseline on the cotton bud and coat the inside of the point motor where the "Slug" moves with a thin coat. This stops corrosion that WILL happen when U start using water on the scenery and makes it smoother and less likely to stick. This can also be done with existing "stickly" motors quite successfully.
(Yes, I know U can use product x/y/z for this, but vaseline is easy, not messy, stays where its put and is literally - safe as a babys bum on plastics, which is more than can be said of electrolube on many other supposed "good for hobby use" lubricants or oils!).
Tip #4: use proper wire.
A peco point motor is between 3 and 4 ohms, which at 15 volts is around 4 amps current draw. Its momentary peak will in fact be higher, as will the backEMF peak when it stops. We MUST avoid voltage drop if this isn't to create a problem. The ONLY way to do this is to use decent wire. That means use no less than the equivalent of 7.5 amp mains cable between whatever is operating them and the coils.(ie at least the same size as the 240volt bedside lamp is conected with)
Tip #5: Is not related to point motors - the Peco check rails are far too far away from the stock rails. You need to do 2 things for good running: (a) glue a bit of styrene of between 10 and 15 thou on the inside of the check rail and file the ends to match the c/r. Paint it to match the c/r. (
check all back t obacks - set to no less than 14.5mm for more modern wheel sets - you'll find most H and B less than this. Derailmeants will disappear and everything will run better - less "hunting" from side to side and with the wheel coning now better mated to rail profile, better pickup (I actually set all my own BTB to 14.75, however I use finer flangeways too - your mileage may vary on the wider option depending on wheel profiles and pointwork used)
Thats the "info" bit for now....
Richard
DCCconcepts
