[Brian Considine]

Hi Dennis,

Your 218 (which,if it came unboxed is probably out of a start set) has the Fleischmann Twin-Decoder fitted - this decoder works with standard DCC & also with the Fleischmann FMZ system.

T o quite honest you will probably be better off changing the decoder. The factory default settings of the decoder is 27 speed steps, not 28 or 128 as most other DCC works with (I'm sure the Select is 28/128 speed steps). This is almost certainly why the lights on the 218 don't operate.

I don't think that the Select can change the speed settings, but I may be wrong here.

If you are anywhere near Margate we could change the settings for you, so that you can use it with your Select. The noise is probably being made because of the incorrect settings - these loco's are normally very quiet when lightly lubed in the right places.

Hope this helps - please come back to us if you need further help.

BTW - welcome to the forum.

 

[Brian Considine]

QUOTE (ms06s_char @ 11 Mar 2007, 05:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for your advice, the Hornby Select unit has the speed step change function (14/28/128). I changed the loco to 28 and the lights finally switched on but it was blinking and cannot switch it off, then I programmed it to 14 and I can switch on and off the lights by the function key but sometimes the loco cannot resume running after I stopped it but few minutes later it ran again

Ah, we are getting somewhere - the blinking lights on the FLN Twin-Decoder are an indication of motor short/overload (similar to the same feature in the Lenz Silver/Gold). The fact that the loco starts again after being powered down seems to confirm this.

Double check that the motor is OK & that there are no capacitors wiring across the motor backplate. The 3-pole FLM motor suffers from dry bearings, especially if not used for a while & sometimes runs hot. If you dismantle the motor to check make sure that the mark the exact position of the magnet before dismantleing. Once sorted this loco will run very well.

Try this & let us know how you get on.

 

[Brian Considine]

The two green wires from the decoder to the capacitor (that sits in the chassis recess) should be left in place -it's only the FLM decoders that seem to have these. I can't see any small capacitors on the motor backplate ( these ones are smaller than a matchead & square.

The noise on the video is coming from the motor pinion (gear) & the first nylon gear - this should diminish with running in - you could try a tiny amount of silicone grease or Roco or Trix gear grease to help them bed in.

It may be an idea to give the commutator a good clean, also clean off any dust from the inside of the motor backplate (the bit the brushes fit into). Don't be tempted to use any WD40, Electrolube or anything similar.

Try this & come back to us.

 

[Brian Considine]

QUOTE (Doug @ 12 Mar 2007, 10:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The big capacitor is really big - perhaps it serves another function other than suppression. Is it perhaps a sort of UPS?

The other little one can go. the thing with the coil spring and graphite rod is a choke. It can stay. If you remove it, you will have to add a jumper.

The noise is not that bad. I have nosier locos. Sounds more like gears than the motor.

The big capacitor (the one with the green wires) has to stay or the decoder won't work (don't know why but there it is).

Get rid of the little one (the yellowy one) & the two just visible square ones in the 1 & 2 o'clok positions on the motor backplate. Leave the "thing with the coil spring & graphite rod".

I suspect that the loco will get much quieter with some use - the noise may just be coming from the brushes/commutator & will get less with use.

All of the newer FLM motors are different to this one - although an old design they still run well, usually very quiet.

BTW - nice clear pics & grahics.

 

[Brian Considine]

QUOTE (ms06s_char @ 13 Mar 2007, 05:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What will I expect if I remove those components?

Also, I have a reply from Fleischmann:
Ha....I don't read German, I think it's about the decoder programming.....and they didn't reply the noise issue
Dennis

If you follow my suggestions you should achieve the running qualities you are after.
BTW - I have attended Fleischmann Factory service & DCC courses (as well as the Marklin ones).

E-mailing FLM is a matter of "pot luck", unless you already know exactly who to e-mail !

 

[Brian Considine]

I think you are now at the stage where you need to get the loco to someone who actually has some experience of FLM. The decoder is now almost certainly dustbin fodder & the armature may very well be damaged due to the WD40 shorting the windings & the whole motor probably requires a stripdown.

The FLM decoders are around £40 & a decent Lenz (or other equivelent such as ESU) around £22.

The FLM armature is (without looking it up) around £8.

On my workbench today is another FLM 218 with the same symtoms & some damaged wiring.

 

[Brian Considine]

Don't even think of fitting the Lenz with the six pin plug.

Make sure that the motor current is checked before fitting a new decoder (of any type) - these motors can appear to work OK, but can draw more current that the decoder will take.

Best (if you don't want to fit the FLM decoder) is to get the dealer to hard wire a Lenz or ESU - it's a simple soldering job.

There is no problem with no cover and/or insulation over the brush holders - you get the same voltage accross them as you do on the track - & nobody is suggesting that the track is insulated !

 

[Brian Considine]

QUOTE (ms06s_char @ 16 Mar 2007, 02:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>So, it can only mount with FLN decoder?

As I have already said you can hard wire an alternative decoder to the FLM decoder.

Or, you could fit the 6-pin plug from the defunct FLM decoder to the replacement.

I am well aware of the situation regarding CE markings.