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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2 A4's which I have fitted Lok Sound decoders in and I am delighted.
I wish to take the adventure further by adding front lights and firebox glow. I have read the Lok sound hand book and am familiar with what wires operate what. I have now ordered minature L.E.D lamps for the front but have looked everywhere for intructions on how to link the wire to the decoders

Now here's the rub..

1.Do you cut the wires to feed the lights and firebox or do you solder under the DCC blanking plate.
2. What LEDs do you use to make the firebox glow, are they flashing or not and what size are they in MM
3. What colour wire is best to feed the firebox LED

As I have stated I have looked for crystal clear instructions on the forums with no joy so any advice appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Baykal
thanks for the prompt, this well detailed article is basically hard wired DCC using bulbs,
I wish to use small lights driven by LED's and make use of the current NRMA wiring and this seems to be the problem.
All the articles tell you what wire to use but not how to link it up or the LED for the firebox.
I was hoping someone had gone down this route and could advise on CV values ( flickering) and LED sizes for the orange glow LEDS
 

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QUOTE (stmartins @ 26 Mar 2009, 20:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Baykal
thanks for the prompt, this well detailed article is basically hard wired DCC using bulbs,
I wish to use small lights driven by LED's and make use of the current NRMA wiring and this seems to be the problem.
All the articles tell you what wire to use but not how to link it up or the LED for the firebox.
I was hoping someone had gone down this route and could advise on CV values ( flickering) and LED sizes for the orange glow LEDS

Pages 25 to 31 of the Loksound manual detail which CV's are used to map each function both in forward and reverse. CV115 with a value of VOL + 80 (Vol is 0-64 being dark to bright ) will produce a firebox lighting effect on AUX 1 which I think is the violet lead and is possibly mapped to F2 as standrad. Front lights can be linked to the white wire. 12 Volt LEDS might benefit from a 1K resistor in series but by adjusting the CV value, one might not need that. Blue is common positive return.

Size of LED is whatever you can get to fit. Best effect is obtained by drilling a hole in the back plate and installing a lighthouse LED.

Don't expect to see too much in daylight but spectacular in the dark.
 

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What would be really interesting would be the ability to have a sound play at the same time as the firebox flickers. I am not sure what this would require, but perhaps a Function Key could play the coal shovelling sound and activate the firebox flicker at the same time? This would be kind of neat. Even better would be the abillity to assign both (coal shovel sound and firebox flicker) to a random event (or in the best case - allow both Function Key and Random).

This might be possible with the current hardward (sound decoder) with only a minor modification to the sound decoder software, but I am not sure.
 

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QUOTE What would be really interesting would be the ability to have a sound play at the same time as the firebox flickers

That's what my Loksound does and I don't think it's a recent feature?

David
 

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*** This has been a possibility with loksound for years. When I create sound files and set up loco's for clients, the two actions are always synchronised so that the only time coal shoveling is heard is when the firebox flicker is activated via a function key.

flicker cannot be a random event - coal shoveling can.

regards

Richard

QUOTE (John @ 28 Mar 2009, 05:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What would be really interesting would be the ability to have a sound play at the same time as the firebox flickers. I am not sure what this would require, but perhaps a Function Key could play the coal shovelling sound and activate the firebox flicker at the same time? This would be kind of neat. Even better would be the abillity to assign both (coal shovel sound and firebox flicker) to a random event (or in the best case - allow both Function Key and Random).

This might be possible with the current hardward (sound decoder) with only a minor modification to the sound decoder software, but I am not sure.
 

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***Function 3 / Aux 1 is the green lead, Violet is Function 4 / aux 2.

the best way to do flicker is to cut out the coal door totally and make a tiny cave of aluminium foil with many thin strips / tiny bits of the clear coloured cellophane type plastic florists use as well (this all crunched up and surrounding the LED - if you can find red and yellow all the better, use a little of both... its not essential but with the small aluminium nest it breaks up the lines of the LED and creates a nice reflection).

The LED (1 or 2 are OK depending on space) should be anything that will fit. Of all LEDs, the tower type is the hardest to use as it has a large rear "block" which will often interfere with the chassis, which can come close to th inside surface of the cabs backhead. I usually use (smallest to biggest) an 0603 surface mount, a 1.8mm microdot or a standard 3mm if space allows.

regards

Richard

QUOTE (dwhite4dcc @ 27 Mar 2009, 05:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Pages 25 to 31 of the Loksound manual detail which CV's are used to map each function both in forward and reverse. CV115 with a value of VOL + 80 (Vol is 0-64 being dark to bright ) will produce a firebox lighting effect on AUX 1 which I think is the violet lead and is possibly mapped to F2 as standrad. Front lights can be linked to the white wire. 12 Volt LEDS might benefit from a 1K resistor in series but by adjusting the CV value, one might not need that. Blue is common positive return.

Size of LED is whatever you can get to fit. Best effect is obtained by drilling a hole in the back plate and installing a lighthouse LED.

Don't expect to see too much in daylight but spectacular in the dark.
 

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Hi

I may be able to help. I have fitted firebox flicker and lights to a couple of A4's. See photos they will explain a lot better.

All I do is drill 1 or 2 holes 2mm in diameter in the firebox door. As Richard said start from the smallest to the biggest but the towers will give you a lot of trouble, I only used them once. 1.8mm I find are the best.

1 Check clearance behind motor.
2 drill holes
3 Pre wire leds
4 glue in place
5 wire into decoder

Photo of firebox flicker rear



Photo of front on A4 firebox flicker.



Express lights are tricky on the A4 as you are placing them on a curved surface. My suggestion is drill 1 hole only (0.6mm), and from there work out second location of hole using the led legs.

2 Ways of wiring, cut legs completely off leaving about 0.5mm sticking out of the LED and solder wire to it or bend the LED legs.

Use a very fine multi strand wire here (black colour from TCS is excellent)



I get all my LED's from DCC Concepts and find they most suitable for what I do.

Best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for a good response & Martin 71 for the photos, it looks very good and neat.
The one query I still have is

Do you cut the decoder wires at the NRMA plug end ( if so does this affect the guarantee)
or do you solder the wires to the firebox & lights under the female blanking plate on the loco.

Once I get my head around this I can battle on.
 

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Hi

I never use the 8 pin plug as just about every loco I do uses all functions. I rip out most manufacturers harness caps etc as I just find it easier.

It also gives me more room...I suggest what ever you find the easiest.

Have fun

Martin
 
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