does it derail when it runs on it own as well as when it is pulling a train? If not it could be that the coupler is too narrow or short for the train it's pulling.
Just a thought :^)
Just a thought :^)
Diesel derailing
I have just bought a Bachmann diesel model 32-750 'Freight Liner' lovely lighting but the bugger keeps derialing on the curves and some points. I used it on Hornby R607 curve thats the middle size as anyone else had this problem? Its a shame but I am going to have to sell the beauty.
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66s are big beasts and 2nd radius is their official limit.
"Some points" - would this be a crossover? Crossovers mean reverse curves, and reverse curves are always worse than simple curves. I'm notr sure you're going to get this through a crossover more severe than Streamline small radius (not Setrack) - that's about 2' radius.
Do you think the couplers are part of the problem? In other words do they drag the stock off? If so it may be possible to fit alternative couplers that don't
"Some points" - would this be a crossover? Crossovers mean reverse curves, and reverse curves are always worse than simple curves. I'm notr sure you're going to get this through a crossover more severe than Streamline small radius (not Setrack) - that's about 2' radius.
Do you think the couplers are part of the problem? In other words do they drag the stock off? If so it may be possible to fit alternative couplers that don't
It derails all on its own, no wagons added. It derails on Hornby curves, its down to the big bogies as I have another Bach diesel with 2 wheel bogies and thats fine
I mean points not curves sorry
Hl zach ,
I had the same sort of problem with my 66 , all mine turned out to be was the footsteps on the bogie snagging on the underside of the loco , it just needed to be smoothed down a bit with a file . I could feel it snagging when i turned the bogie in my hand .
Hope this helps . Regards simon
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I had the same sort of problem with my 66 , all mine turned out to be was the footsteps on the bogie snagging on the underside of the loco , it just needed to be smoothed down a bit with a file . I could feel it snagging when i turned the bogie in my hand .
Hope this helps . Regards simon
Zach
If you can check the Back to Backs of the wheels with a gauge I have found that some times these can be out with Bachmann Locos Steam or Diesel if the Back your Backs are out mainly on the centre wheel this will limit the the amount of free movement the bogie has to travel in and could cause it to derail on points or mormal curves but mainly points.
Pete
If you can check the Back to Backs of the wheels with a gauge I have found that some times these can be out with Bachmann Locos Steam or Diesel if the Back your Backs are out mainly on the centre wheel this will limit the the amount of free movement the bogie has to travel in and could cause it to derail on points or mormal curves but mainly points.
Pete
QUOTE (Peter_Harvey @ 15 Feb 2007, 07:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Zach
If you can check the Back to Backs of the wheels with a gauge I have found that some times these can be out with Bachmann Locos Steam or Diesel if the Back your Backs are out mainly on the centre wheel this will limit the the amount of free movement the bogie has to travel in and could cause it to derail on points or mormal curves but mainly points.
Pete
I can only endorse Peter's advice - the back to back is so often overlooked, in fact when I have a problem with stock derailing it's the first thing I check.
If you can check the Back to Backs of the wheels with a gauge I have found that some times these can be out with Bachmann Locos Steam or Diesel if the Back your Backs are out mainly on the centre wheel this will limit the the amount of free movement the bogie has to travel in and could cause it to derail on points or mormal curves but mainly points.
Pete
I can only endorse Peter's advice - the back to back is so often overlooked, in fact when I have a problem with stock derailing it's the first thing I check.
Would agree on the above. Slide the loco unpowered across the points and see if you pick up on anything.
I would guess you have Peco points which have finer tolerances than others. Class 66's run fine across Peco points at the club however these have a very wide radius. There have been no reports by club members of any issues apart from requiring a good hour to run in and get the lubricants working after which they run almost silently.
Happy modelling
Gary
I would guess you have Peco points which have finer tolerances than others. Class 66's run fine across Peco points at the club however these have a very wide radius. There have been no reports by club members of any issues apart from requiring a good hour to run in and get the lubricants working after which they run almost silently.
Happy modelling
Gary
Hi,
I too had similar problems, and I had bought 3 of the bloomin' things !
I'm in the early stages of building my layout [after a 25 year gap !] - so track not pinned down etc.
I replaced a dodgy section of 2nd radius - and made sure the track was "level" - they seem very susceptible to even small changes of "eveness".
Now, the 66 works fine !
So, yes, I had to buy the sound equipped one too!
Perservere I would say - don't sell and lose out on a top class model.
BTW - same issue with Class37 CoCo - now OK.
The forum did offer other advice - all useful.
I too had similar problems, and I had bought 3 of the bloomin' things !
I'm in the early stages of building my layout [after a 25 year gap !] - so track not pinned down etc.
I replaced a dodgy section of 2nd radius - and made sure the track was "level" - they seem very susceptible to even small changes of "eveness".
Now, the 66 works fine !
So, yes, I had to buy the sound equipped one too!
Perservere I would say - don't sell and lose out on a top class model.
BTW - same issue with Class37 CoCo - now OK.
The forum did offer other advice - all useful.
I've had trouble with my 66s on points as well (including the excellent sound-equipped model), but not consistently in the same place. My trackwork is not of the best, but other stock negotiates it OK, so it can't only be the track. It's proving a devil to track down the problem, so thanks for these two suggestions.
What is the best technique for actually altering back-to-back measurements? What tools do people use?
What is the best technique for actually altering back-to-back measurements? What tools do people use?
My personal feeling is watch the loco / bogie and track carefully where there are issues before attempting surgery.
The bachmann bogies seem to have less horizontal "ride" in comparison to say a Hornby 60 or 50 Co-Cos.
They also do appear to be ALOT less forgiving generally - my 50 and 60 will fly round at totally unrealistic speeds and never come off - 66 not so.
Likewise the Hornby [Lima] 59 - will fly round - even radius 1 [its not meant to be able to].
Like I said, i was close to selling mine, but having looked at the track - that was the issue.
The bachmann bogies seem to have less horizontal "ride" in comparison to say a Hornby 60 or 50 Co-Cos.
They also do appear to be ALOT less forgiving generally - my 50 and 60 will fly round at totally unrealistic speeds and never come off - 66 not so.
Likewise the Hornby [Lima] 59 - will fly round - even radius 1 [its not meant to be able to].
Like I said, i was close to selling mine, but having looked at the track - that was the issue.
If you have a video camera, particularly a digital one, you can video the loco at the problem point(s) and playback in slow motion or even frame by frame. This can help pinpoint the problem which may not be seen by the unaided eye-ball.
Regards,
John Webb
Regards,
John Webb
Thanks to rs4 and John Webb for those additional thoughts - both definitely worth trying.
Yes, my trusty Hornby Class 60 not only looks and runs beautifully, but it's smooth as silk, never stalls, and is very solid on the track - even at the occasional try-out of hair-raising speed ("just to see if it can").
I like the Bachmann 66s, but if I can only get past this temperament they have....
Granted, relaying the track may help. I've tweaked it a bit, but put off actually ripping it up, for as long as other stock seems to cope.
Fault rectification. My least favourite aspect of the hobby. But, yep, I'll go back to the track and look again.
Cheers guys.
Yes, my trusty Hornby Class 60 not only looks and runs beautifully, but it's smooth as silk, never stalls, and is very solid on the track - even at the occasional try-out of hair-raising speed ("just to see if it can").
I like the Bachmann 66s, but if I can only get past this temperament they have....
Granted, relaying the track may help. I've tweaked it a bit, but put off actually ripping it up, for as long as other stock seems to cope.
Fault rectification. My least favourite aspect of the hobby. But, yep, I'll go back to the track and look again.
Cheers guys.
It does seem to be on one particular hornby point and where the curve joins the straight section at both ends of the circuit. I think it is just the size of the bogie too large for the curve of track. I am sure if I used a bigger radii it would be ok, but thats not possible. You can see the loco'jump' as it passes these areas, sometimes it gets by sometimes it comes off the tracks. Don't the designers of these loco's check these things!
Can I surjest that you have a small straight section before the point this will sort out your problem.
Pete
Pete
QUOTE (zach @ 15 Feb 2007, 17:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>It does seem to be on one particular hornby point and where the curve joins the straight section at both ends of the circuit. I think it is just the size of the bogie too large for the curve of track. I am sure if I used a bigger radii it would be ok, but thats not possible. You can see the loco'jump' as it passes these areas, sometimes it gets by sometimes it comes off the tracks. Don't the designers of these loco's check these things!
You will probably find that it is not recommended by the manufacures to run this loco on anything less than a radius 2 curve.
More & more stock just will not happily run on radius 1 curves - part of the price for better realism elseware. If you have points of the same raduis elseware & the loco is OK on them then you may have to replace the offending points.
As well as checking the "back to backs" as many of us have suggested the next step would be to check if the actual track gauge has "narrowed" or become distorted at the actual place of the derailments.
Have you actually checked the "back to backs" ?
You will probably find that it is not recommended by the manufacures to run this loco on anything less than a radius 2 curve.
More & more stock just will not happily run on radius 1 curves - part of the price for better realism elseware. If you have points of the same raduis elseware & the loco is OK on them then you may have to replace the offending points.
As well as checking the "back to backs" as many of us have suggested the next step would be to check if the actual track gauge has "narrowed" or become distorted at the actual place of the derailments.
Have you actually checked the "back to backs" ?
Be scared.
The technique I heard about for adjusting back to back was "insert a screwdriver between wheel and chassis , then turn slightly to force out the wheel"
A video of this is said to be available from Hammer, with Christopher Lee holding the screwdriver in a basement, but as 66s dont have side rods etc I'd have thought there are limits to the potential damage
The technique I heard about for adjusting back to back was "insert a screwdriver between wheel and chassis , then turn slightly to force out the wheel"
A video of this is said to be available from Hammer, with Christopher Lee holding the screwdriver in a basement, but as 66s dont have side rods etc I'd have thought there are limits to the potential damage
PROBLEM SOLVED
Nothing to do with wheels or track! Got magnifying glass and one of the small wire pipes was bent towards the front wheel must have caught the track/points on curves. Bent this out of way, hey presto it now runs like a dream. Now all I have to do is take it too pieces to fit a decoder!!
Nothing to do with wheels or track! Got magnifying glass and one of the small wire pipes was bent towards the front wheel must have caught the track/points on curves. Bent this out of way, hey presto it now runs like a dream. Now all I have to do is take it too pieces to fit a decoder!!
Well, congrats, Zach, on getting to the bottom of it. I'll have yet another look at mine over the weekend.
I tried John's video technique last night, and it does help you really focus on the problem and look properly, but no joy.
I share Ravenser's caution (trepidation?) about surgery. Strikes me as fraught with hidden danger.
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Enjoyed everyone's contributions. I may end up having to try most of them - be great if mine was just the pipe, as well....
I tried John's video technique last night, and it does help you really focus on the problem and look properly, but no joy.
I share Ravenser's caution (trepidation?) about surgery. Strikes me as fraught with hidden danger.
Enjoyed everyone's contributions. I may end up having to try most of them - be great if mine was just the pipe, as well....
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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