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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have just taken my first steps into the world of DCC control with the purchase of the new Dynamis controller, which appears great and very easy to use.


I do however have one slight problem, in that I do not know the address of my DCC chipped loco (brought via Ebay and the seller could not remember!!!!). I have tried the standard default ID of 3, but without trawling through the 9999 potential addresses, does anyone know of a way of finding out the decoder address using the dymanis system or do I need a more advance system that can read things such as CV values?

Also, having played around with the system, and am not impressed with the amount of information actually provided in the user manual. Does anyone know if Bachmann have produced or will be producing a downloaded advanced manual for the system with information like the error codes etc.

Thanks in advance for any advise that you may be able to offer
 

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QUOTE (Hampshire @ 18 Dec 2007, 18:48) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

I have just taken my first steps into the world of DCC control with the purchase of the new Dynamis controller, which appears great and very easy to use.


I do however have one slight problem, in that I do not know the address of my DCC chipped loco (brought via Ebay and the seller could not remember!!!!). I have tried the standard default ID of 3, but without trawling through the 9999 potential addresses, does anyone know of a way of finding out the decoder address using the dymanis system or do I need a more advance system that can read things such as CV values?

Also, having played around with the system, and am not impressed with the amount of information actually provided in the user manual. Does anyone know if Bachmann have produced or will be producing a downloaded advanced manual for the system with information like the error codes etc.

Thanks in advance for any advise that you may be able to offer

You will need to upgrade to the pro box when it is available, I suspect there shall be many f us doing the same.

Perhaps a loco model shop could read the chip cv and tell you the id number? A local model railway club member?
 

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QUOTE (Hampshire @ 19 Dec 2007, 03:48) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

I have just taken my first steps into the world of DCC control with the purchase of the new Dynamis controller, which appears great and very easy to use.


I do however have one slight problem, in that I do not know the address of my DCC chipped loco (brought via Ebay and the seller could not remember!!!!). I have tried the standard default ID of 3, but without trawling through the 9999 potential addresses, does anyone know of a way of finding out the decoder address using the dymanis system or do I need a more advance system that can read things such as CV values?

Also, having played around with the system, and am not impressed with the amount of information actually provided in the user manual. Does anyone know if Bachmann have produced or will be producing a downloaded advanced manual for the system with information like the error codes etc.

Thanks in advance for any advise that you may be able to offer

Hello

Do you know the brand of the decoder that is installed? Each brand has a reset code that will return the decoder to ex factory settings - for example, with a TCS decoder set CV 8 or CV 30 to 2 and its back to #3.

So... If you know the brand you can get a manual copy from the web and do the reset....

Richard
DCCconcepts.
 

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QUOTE So... If you know the brand you can get a manual copy from the web and do the reset....

I have decoders from ESU, Zimo and Lenz. Here are the codes for resetting the decoders back to the factory defaults - in other words short address at number 3. I have taken these values from the manuals.

ESU LokPilot 3 - Write 8 to CV8
Lenz Gold - Write 33 to CV8
Zimo Mx620, MX62, MX63, MX64 - Write 8 to CV8

Best of luck

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the advice.

I've now managed to access all my decoder fitted loco's.


Now, if only I could find some effective delay settings for my bachmann sound chipped class 20.........
 

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First Impressions of Dynamis

As a modeller who has been eagerly awaiting the issue of the Dynamis since spring 07, I got mine from Hattons just before Xmas and have now had a chance to chip locos and get going with it. Here are my thoughts on the whole Dynamis experience for general interest:

Firstly, you need to be careful when inserting the batteries into the had-held control since the brittle plastic covers could easily shatter if forced. That done, the rest of the set up is truly plug-and-play with no gotchas.

I chipped a Hornby Hymek (not DCC ready) first because the 8F (DCC Ready) would not fit the Bachmann chip anywhere so smaller chips had to be ordered- more later. The Hymek was a doddle to fit though with plenty of room for the 4 function chip. Simply follow the instructions and ensure that the chip sits between the pick ups on the wheels and the motor. Im a beginner at soldering and have found that tinning the chip and loco wires helps greatly. I used the iron to melt the plastic sheath off the decoder wires because it is really so thin that stripping usually results in cutting right through. I had one small issue with the chip when I was getting a constant short but this was solved quickly when I realised that I had not ensured that the chip was between the pickups and motor for all pick ups- remember modern models have both bogies collecting current.

Chip size was the main learning point on my first run into DCC. I wanted to chip the Hornby 8F first since it was DCC ready but the small spaces left of chips precluded fitting the Bachmann ones- they are about 1mm too wide to go into the smoke box or above the firebox. The Hornby ones no doubt fit but having read the resetting issues that folk have experienced and taking into account the lack of NMRA compliance I have steered well clear of them. I ordered 5x TCS MC2s from Bromsgrove Models and have fitted these smaller chips to the 8F, 3F Jinty (Bachmann) and Bachmann Class N. They all run excellently well on the TCS chips- highly recommended.

It is worth mentioning how the TCS chips were fitted in each case. I followed guides printed from Bromsgrove Models pages for the N and the 3F. The N fitted into the firebox above the motor in a squeeze. I had to push the spare wires up in a bundle to avoid them fouling the driving wheels. I simply tied off the unused function wires in a bundle. The 3F similarly fitted its chip into the main body- again there is very little room but it does fit. Ensure that you tape over all the solder joints to avoid any possible shorts etc.

When I ordered the chips I also ordered 5 NEM plugs because ideally I want to plug and unplug chips as I develop sound in my diesel fleet. There really is no room in the steamers for a sound installation- the tenders may be the only available avenue. Otherwise, it will be a "sound car" set up. That's an experiment for the future.

On the track the models run perfectly- really impressive slow speed handling with these back-EMF fitted chips. It really has made my '70s and '80s Triang and Hornby fleet look jaded. I plan to fit a chip to a representative good runner to see what happens but Im thinking that the motors will not give anything like the performance that the latest models give so I may trade the older models in to fund replacements.

The consisting function is a Dynamis strength- on first trials I had the 8F and 3F top and tail a rake of mineral wagons and they push-pulled perfectly with no de-railments of wagons due to mis-matched speeds. Impressive stuff.

Multi running is another (new for me) feature of DCC. It's great fun- just watch out for models disappearing off the ends of unfinished boards as your attention is re-directed to something else that is going on. Also- make sure to set the speed zero models that you have finished moving around the layout- otherwise they set off again unannounced. Im sure it's my lack of capacity- but the "play value" here is immense. When I get the "dumbbells" made and a constant run is possible I plan to have a couple of constant runners and shunting in the yards- brilliant!

My layout is a representation of the S+D mid '60s and has the trackwork laid and some ballasted- it has recently been re-developed following a house move, extended and is planned to have a dumbbell trackplan which will require 2 reversing modules. I have used Peco flexi code 100 with min 3rd radius curves to allow me to fit steps to the locos- trialled this weekend and there was no fouling from the 8F or N Class. The points have been fitted with Hornby "staples" (thin staple-like connectors that bridge the current making insulfrogs live throughout. I can run anywhere on the lyout now in DCC with only 2 wires from controller to the track. This is, in my mind, the major DCC benefit. I had drilled holes for the jump cables that I though that I would need for the points but the "stapes" are really the better solution. They fit instantly across the frogs, are unobtrusive and save all the fiddly soldering under the base boards.

My boards are B+Q paste tables with a 3mm MDF topping, cork underlay for the track and traditional granite ballast. It looks the part and runs well. I have mounted the boards onto brackets sitting at approx 120cm (low chest height) in the garage where I get a good eyeline view of the action. Overall, the layout length is going to be about 8m so the power output of the basic Dynamis should not be an issue. It's got 5A in any case- plenty for most domestic uses.

I hop that this initial report is useful. Im having fun at leat. It's the best 80 quid Ive spent on modelling!
 

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Had my first proper experience with the Dynamis at the weekend. Must say that I was impressed with its value for money. Its features list is impressive and its clear that ESU have done a good job. My only problem with the system was that I kept turning round and losing the IR wireless signal, stopping everything. I found this very annoying, though I'd probably train myself to stop it if I used the Dynamis regularly. How have others found the IR wireless?

Rob
 

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Rob, I had the same thing withi mine and learned that everything assumes "continue as normal" until the signal is regained- it can be embarrassing when models run off the end of the board and fall to the floor. Ive trained myself to keep IR contact since then. The reception area is wide enough on the base unit to allow reasonable wandering around- certainly more freedom than most long cords offer. Since my layout is L shaped I do have to remember that the IR line of sight needs to be maintained.

Dave

QUOTE (80class @ 7 Jan 2008, 10:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Had my first proper experience with the Dynamis at the weekend. Must say that I was impressed with its value for money. Its features list is impressive and its clear that ESU have done a good job. My only problem with the system was that I kept turning round and losing the IR wireless signal, stopping everything. I found this very annoying, though I'd probably train myself to stop it if I used the Dynamis regularly. How have others found the IR wireless?

Rob
 

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You may well be right there- just me over-egging it a bit probably!

I chipped the Hornby 4F last night- another tight squeeze resulting in using the TCS MC2 chip and placing it in the tender against the rear coal bunker bulkhead. It runs best on 128 speed steps- a bit jerky on 28 speed step setting i found. That's 5 locos now chipped and working really well. I would like to get my bachmann Class 03 diesel and Ivatt 2MT done but they have a split chassis design and are going to be more difficult to isolate the motor from the chassis. We'll see.

cheers
 

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QUOTE (Watty @ 8 Jan 2008, 16:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You may well be right there- just me over-egging it a bit probably!

I chipped the Hornby 4F last night- another tight squeeze resulting in using the TCS MC2 chip and placing it in the tender against the rear coal bunker bulkhead. It runs best on 128 speed steps- a bit jerky on 28 speed step setting i found. That's 5 locos now chipped and working really well. I would like to get my bachmann Class 03 diesel and Ivatt 2MT done but they have a split chassis design and are going to be more difficult to isolate the motor from the chassis. We'll see.

cheers

**Hello Watty. You will find a very good guide to fitting decoders to split chassis loco's on this website. It has a good picture story as well as a good description. If you need any help just ask please - I'll be happy to assist.

http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html

Kind regards

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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I wrote these pages (http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html almost 7 years ago now and things have changed a bit. With the split frame, rather than removing the circlip from the central driver, try to remove the cylinders, and then remove the wheels and motion in one piece it makes reassembly much easier. I don't drill and tap the chassis any more if I can avoid it. I now use a small piece of curcuit board soldered to red & black wires between the chassis 1/2's it's much quicker and easier. Of course we now have some great micro decoders to choose from as well. My chosen decoder is the the TCS M1, the latest ones with BEMF are really brilliant, and as these decoders have covering insulation of the decoder is never a problem. Choosing one decoder for the majority of your installations has the advantage that you get to really know it's characteristics, making setting up easy, and highly predictable. Buying say 5 or 10 decoders at a time brings down the costs.
 

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QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 8 Jan 2008, 19:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I wrote these pages (http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html almost 7 years ago now and things have changed a bit. With the split frame, rather than removing the circlip from the central driver, try to remove the cylinders, and then remove the wheels and motion in one piece it makes reassembly much easier. I don't drill and tap the chassis any more if I can avoid it. I now use a small piece of curcuit board soldered to red & black wires between the chassis 1/2's it's much quicker and easier. Of course we now have some great micro decoders to choose from as well. My chosen decoder is the the TCS M1, the latest ones with BEMF are really brilliant, and as these decoders have covering insulation of the decoder is never a problem. Choosing one decoder for the majority of your installations has the advantage that you get to really know it's characteristics, making setting up easy, and highly predictable. Buying say 5 or 10 decoders at a time brings down the costs.


*I'm pleased you added that MMAD - the site is still an excellent reference and I often steer people there. Are you intending to update or expand it at all anythime... I for one would welcome that, as there are many who have been helped by it.

Richard
 

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QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 8 Jan 2008, 12:00) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>*I'm pleased you added that MMAD - the site is still an excellent reference and I often steer people there. Are you intending to update or expand it at all anythime... I for one would welcome that, as there are many who have been helped by it.

Richard

Guys VMT. Ill read up more before I attempt either the 2MT or the Class 03 chipping I think.

Dave
 
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