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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I got my faller bus today, and after playing with it, I can see a few problems developing. It seems that unless the wire is bare, the bus wont pick the wire up and wont follow it. Does it have to be a mere 1-2mm under the road surface?

Also the wheels keep getting stuck on full lock so it pulls off the wire at a corner and drives in circles. Im not sure if this s a common, solveable problem or its something else?

Thanks for any help.
 

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QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 12 Jul 2007, 15:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

I got my faller bus today, and after playing with it, I can see a few problems developing. It seems that unless the wire is bare, the bus wont pick the wire up and wont follow it. Does it have to be a mere 1-2mm under the road surface?

Also the wheels keep getting stuck on full lock so it pulls off the wire at a corner and drives in circles. Im not sure if this s a common, solveable problem or its something else?

Thanks for any help.

Hi,

First of all the top of the guide wire must be virtually flush with the road surface. 1 - 2mm is too deep for reliable operation. It seems to me that you are trying to get the bus to negociate too tight a tuning circle. What is the road surface made of ? - this could also have a bearing on the problem. Try this & come back to us - if it does not help send me a PM & I'll let you have my phone number - we've done quite a bit with the Faller Car Systems.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

Thanks for the help.

I have since taped a failry straingt bit of wire down to some MDF and layed down of the white road plaster stuff that came with the bus. the plaster stuff is a good 2-3 years old so it might have perished, but it seems to be crusting over and drying. The tape i used to hold the wire down is quite shiney so the white plaster stuff dosnt stick, but Im sure i could use masking tape or something?

The road I was running the bus on was the kitchen floor with its tiles and grout lines. I ran it round the MDF curves and it was ok.

Il let you know how the vus goes.

Thanks.
 

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QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 12 Jul 2007, 17:05) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>layed down of the white road plaster stuff that came with the bus. the plaster stuff is a good 2-3 years old so it might have perished

The faller roadway paint that is currently supplied is a darkish grey & quite a good likeness to road surface - I think what you have got in your set is a modelling compound - I'll ask BRITHO - he the scenery expert.

Glad to see that you are having some luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi, i taped some more wire down abit of MDF, and i added a level crossing in too, just to give the bus an obsticle. its been running round fantasticlay, im really pleased with it. My trail bit of road is working pretty well too...

Thanks.
 

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QUOTE (dbclass50 @ 12 Jul 2007, 19:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The faller roadway paint that is currently supplied is a darkish grey & quite a good likeness to road surface - I think what you have got in your set is a modelling compound - I'll ask BRITHO - he the scenery expert.

Glad to see that you are having some luck with it.

No need - I'm here......

I am assuming that you are using the Faller scenic compound that came with the set? if you are it should be a bit like Polyfilla. My first piece of advice is don't mix up to much at a time as it goes stiff very quickly. It is probably best to use it like a thick soup so that it finds its own level.

The best wat that we have found for fixing the wire down is to first of all work out where the guide wire needs to go to ensure that the bus or whatever does not foul any buildings or other static vehicles or scenic features This is more critical on buses than trucks due to the buses much larger front/rear overhang. while testing the wire can be lightly tacked down with masking tape.

Once the route is confirmed mark the route of the wire using a felt pen or similar and create a small groove in the surface, lay the wire in the groove and spread PVA adhesive over it, using the MK1 finger to smooth it out. When the PVA has dried remove the masking tape and seal the bare patches as above.

When the whole lot is thoroughly dry paint with the road paint supplied.

With any luck it will now work perfectly.

On St Laurent we actually laid very fine sand over a thin layer of PVA let the whole lot harden and painted it grey. It actually looks quite effective but can be a bit tough on the steering arms.

Any problems just PM myself or dbclass50 and we'll try to help.

Regards

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi,

afew more probems,

I was fiddling with the stop coil, and I have noticed that the coil has to be in a very specific, carefuly tuned location to get it to work. It seems the reed switch is at the side of the bus. Is this so that only busses stop at coils designed for busses? Will a car have the reed switch at a differnt location?

Also, only 18v is enough oomph to stop the bus through 6mm MDF... is it necessary to lay the coil into the baseboard? Can i possibly boost the power of the magnet with another nedodidium magnet (i can never remember how its spelt) to thicken baseboard?

Thanks.
 

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QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 13 Jul 2007, 20:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

afew more probems,

I was fiddling with the stop coil, and I have noticed that the coil has to be in a very specific, carefuly tuned location to get it to work. It seems the reed switch is at the side of the bus. Is this so that only busses stop at coils designed for busses? Will a car have the reed switch at a differnt location?

Also, only 18v is enough oomph to stop the bus through 6mm MDF... is it necessary to lay the coil into the baseboard? Can i possibly boost the power of the magnet with another nedodidium magnet (i can never remember how its spelt) to thicken baseboard?

Thanks.

All the vehicles have the reed switch in the same place relative to the guide wire.

The face of the coil needs to be flush with the road surface - you can "extend" the core by using a cut off bolt with a high iron content - a coach bolt is OK for this, this way you only need a small hole to be drilled through the board. Try this it should work - let us know how it works !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi,

I had a clever idea:

What I plan to do is to get a large steel nail (or will steel not work?) and drive it through the road surface at the point where the stop coil needs to be. I can then chop most of the nail off and leave afew inches underneath the road. I will then insulate this and wrap it round in lots of that red, varnished copper wire. That will act as an electromagnet in its self, and I could always paint the top of the nail to look like a manhole cover or something


Would that work?

Failing that, the only other option I can see is to get bigger, stronger magnets. Oddly RS who have milleons of products have no electromagnets at all?! I cant seem to find them anywhere....
 

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Re RS Components - try searching for 'solenoids' - I think that will turn up something for you.

Re your idea of using a nail, rather than spending time under the baseboard wrapping hundreds of turns of wire directly to the nail, you could construct a 'Bobbin' which fits over the nail but which can be wound with wire in comfort at the work bench. See, for example, "Model Railway Signalling" by C J Freezer which describes in detail how to make such items yourself.

Regards,
John Webb
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi,

My idea has now progressed to solid iron rod which I could wind in the pillar drill and then squeeze into the hole.

I have looked at solenoids, but I have a pretty beefy solenoid off RS for another peojct, and that wont do it either!

Where is the model signaling article?

Thanks for all your help,

Pete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just had a go at making an electromagnet. I got some ferrite rod from maplin and put it in the drill and wound about a mile of insulated coper strand onto it. It worked but it got pretty hot. I had another go with the faller coil and it does work if its in a very very specific place, and theres no way it will work through 1mm of road surface....

Im not sure weather to cut the ferrite rod up into little bits and stick it down the faller core and use that... Mmmm
 

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Sorry, I didn't make clear I was referring to a book published in 1991, not another topic somewhere in the Forum!
It was published by Patrick Stephens Ltd (PSL) and I think is out of print, but it often shows up at model railway show bookstalls and secondhand stalls etc.
Regards,
John Webb
 

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QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 14 Jul 2007, 14:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I just had a go at making an electromagnet. I got some ferrite rod from maplin and put it in the drill and wound about a mile of insulated coper strand onto it. It worked but it got pretty hot. I had another go with the faller coil and it does work if its in a very very specific place, and theres no way it will work through 1mm of road surface....

Im not sure weather to cut the ferrite rod up into little bits and stick it down the faller core and use that... Mmmm

What is the problem in using the Faller magnet "as is" ?

If the electro-magnet you come up with is too powerful it will "catch" the steering with the resultant going off course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just dont think its practical to cut big 1.5in holes in the base board...

I cracked it now anyway

Thanks.
 
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