Faller Car system bus...

QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 12 Jul 2007, 15:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

I got my faller bus today, and after playing with it, I can see a few problems developing. It seems that unless the wire is bare, the bus wont pick the wire up and wont follow it. Does it have to be a mere 1-2mm under the road surface?

Also the wheels keep getting stuck on full lock so it pulls off the wire at a corner and drives in circles. Im not sure if this s a common, solveable problem or its something else?

Thanks for any help.

Hi,

First of all the top of the guide wire must be virtually flush with the road surface. 1 - 2mm is too deep for reliable operation. It seems to me that you are trying to get the bus to negociate too tight a tuning circle. What is the road surface made of ? - this could also have a bearing on the problem. Try this & come back to us - if it does not help send me a PM & I'll let you have my phone number - we've done quite a bit with the Faller Car Systems.

Hope this helps.

Hi,

Thanks for the help.

I have since taped a failry straingt bit of wire down to some MDF and layed down of the white road plaster stuff that came with the bus. the plaster stuff is a good 2-3 years old so it might have perished, but it seems to be crusting over and drying. The tape i used to hold the wire down is quite shiney so the white plaster stuff dosnt stick, but Im sure i could use masking tape or something?

The road I was running the bus on was the kitchen floor with its tiles and grout lines. I ran it round the MDF curves and it was ok.

Il let you know how the vus goes.

Thanks.

QUOTE (dbclass50 @ 12 Jul 2007, 19:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The faller roadway paint that is currently supplied is a darkish grey & quite a good likeness to road surface - I think what you have got in your set is a modelling compound - I'll ask BRITHO - he the scenery expert.

Glad to see that you are having some luck with it.

No need - I'm here......

I am assuming that you are using the Faller scenic compound that came with the set? if you are it should be a bit like Polyfilla. My first piece of advice is don't mix up to much at a time as it goes stiff very quickly. It is probably best to use it like a thick soup so that it finds its own level.

The best wat that we have found for fixing the wire down is to first of all work out where the guide wire needs to go to ensure that the bus or whatever does not foul any buildings or other static vehicles or scenic features This is more critical on buses than trucks due to the buses much larger front/rear overhang. while testing the wire can be lightly tacked down with masking tape.

Once the route is confirmed mark the route of the wire using a felt pen or similar and create a small groove in the surface, lay the wire in the groove and spread PVA adhesive over it, using the MK1 finger to smooth it out. When the PVA has dried remove the masking tape and seal the bare patches as above.

When the whole lot is thoroughly dry paint with the road paint supplied.

With any luck it will now work perfectly.

On St Laurent we actually laid very fine sand over a thin layer of PVA let the whole lot harden and painted it grey. It actually looks quite effective but can be a bit tough on the steering arms.

Any problems just PM myself or dbclass50 and we'll try to help.

Regards

John

QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 13 Jul 2007, 20:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,

afew more probems,

I was fiddling with the stop coil, and I have noticed that the coil has to be in a very specific, carefuly tuned location to get it to work. It seems the reed switch is at the side of the bus. Is this so that only busses stop at coils designed for busses? Will a car have the reed switch at a differnt location?

Also, only 18v is enough oomph to stop the bus through 6mm MDF... is it necessary to lay the coil into the baseboard? Can i possibly boost the power of the magnet with another nedodidium magnet (i can never remember how its spelt) to thicken baseboard?

Thanks.

All the vehicles have the reed switch in the same place relative to the guide wire.

The face of the coil needs to be flush with the road surface - you can "extend" the core by using a cut off bolt with a high iron content - a coach bolt is OK for this, this way you only need a small hole to be drilled through the board. Try this it should work - let us know how it works !

Hi,

My idea has now progressed to solid iron rod which I could wind in the pillar drill and then squeeze into the hole.

I have looked at solenoids, but I have a pretty beefy solenoid off RS for another peojct, and that wont do it either!

Where is the model signaling article?

Thanks for all your help,

Pete.