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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi folk,
this has probably been asked already. I want to fit a Bachmann dcc decoder to a train which does not have a socket fitted to put it in. I have spoken to Bachmann and they tell me to just fit a standard ic socket and plug the module in. Is it really as simple as that? or is there more to it? I would assume that I would first need to mount the socket on a board first? and then just follow the wiring diagram to connect the wires in the right order.
Also are there any limits as to which trains they can be fitted to (oo guage).Thanks all

Antony
 

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QUOTE (Antony @ 7 Dec 2006, 16:00) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hi folk,
this has probably been asked already. I want to fit a Bachmann dcc decoder to a train which does not have a socket fitted to put it in. I have spoken to Bachmann and they tell me to just fit a standard ic socket and plug the module in. Is it really as simple as that? or is there more to it? I would assume that I would first need to mount the socket on a board first? and then just follow the wiring diagram to connect the wires in the right order.
Also are there any limits as to which trains they can be fitted to (oo guage).Thanks all

Antony
I don't know the Bachmann decoder so I assume you are tallking about an 8 pin plug. You would need to cut up the standard IC socket and use the two rows of sockets cut to length (4 sockets each), since decoder plugs do not directly fit a standard IC socket. You can wire direct to the underside of the socket pins (where it would normally fit in a board), and protect with heatshrink, or mount it on a piece of verobaord.

Is it also a Bachmann loco? In that case you also have to get around the split chassis design to isolate the pickups and the motor.

Andrew
 

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Antony, take a look at this review.

Here a decoder is fitted to a loco without a 8-pin NEM 652 (NMRA Medium) socket.

I tried buying the plain NEM 652 sockets with the intention to fit them to some locos that were not DCC ready. They are available, but cost over £5 a piece.

Hornby Spares part N° X9084 (PCB Socket + Pins). To source it, try East Kent Models tel no. 01 227 770777 or Burnley Model Spares Tel. no. 01 282 771109.
 

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Hi Antony,
I can see no real value in fitting a 8 pin socket where one doesn't exist today!
Best is to carefully remove the two existing motor wires. (Note these will be reused later)
Now you will need either a buzzer with battery and a pair of fly leads fitted or a multimeter set to OHMS scale.
What you now need to ensure is that the unwired motor isn't making any form of electrical contact to the chassis. This is quite simple to do&#8230;With the original motor wires removed, connect one fly lead from the meter or buzzer to the left-hand side of the chassis, take the other test fly lead and carry out a "to be sure check" i.e. touch it onto another part of the metal chassis on the same side as the other lead is connected, you should now get a full scale deflection or reading on the multimeter or the buzzer will sound. If so this is correct.
Test 1: Leaving one fly lead on the chassis touch the other lead onto one of the two motors terminals. No reading on the meter or buzz should be observed. Swap this fly lead to the other motors terminal. Again no reading or buzz should be received. Test 2: Now move the chassis lead to the opposite (right-hand) side of the chassis and repeat both motor terminal tests. Again no buzz or meter reading should be present. Now remove all test fly leads.
If you received a reading/buzz between chassis and motor in either Test 1 or 2 then you will need to locate and remove whatever is causing the electrical contact to the motor before you can proceed any further.

Assuming all was correct (No readings or a buzz) proceed as follows: Connect the Orange & Grey decoder wires to the motor terminals by soldering then carefully in place ensuring no bare wire is able to touch any part of the chassis.
Now slip onto the Red and the Black decoder wires a short length of heat shrinkable tubing around 15mm long will be more than enough, strip and twist the Red decoder wire to one of the former motor wires (The red one perhaps?) and solder the joint. Do the same with the Black decoder wire to the remaining former motor wire. Once both joints have cooled slide the heat shrink tubing over each joint and gently and carefully shrink down with the aid of the soldering irons tip.
The decoder is now ready for programming and finally locating it into the body or onto chassis as appropriate. Ensure any bare chassis metal has a piece of insulating tape fitted to where the decoder is to be fixed to prevent the decoders circuit board ever coming into contact with the live chassis. If it does you will blow the decoder for sure!

Also you can remove all manufactures fitted TV/radio interference suppression capacitors from any circuit boards or possibly they may be connected across the motor terminals, as suppression is built into decoders -Just cut their leads off close to where they are soldered in.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks folk. Much appreciated.
Its actually my son that is into model trains (Im into rc aircraft but like a challenge). We have bought him the bachmann dcc controller and a decoder but I wanted to fit it to a train for him so he has one ready to go on Christmas day.

Again thanks
Antony
 
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