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Hi Antony,
I can see no real value in fitting a 8 pin socket where one doesn't exist today!
Best is to carefully remove the two existing motor wires. (Note these will be reused later)
Now you will need either a buzzer with battery and a pair of fly leads fitted or a multimeter set to OHMS scale.
What you now need to ensure is that the unwired motor isn't making any form of electrical contact to the chassis. This is quite simple to do…With the original motor wires removed, connect one fly lead from the meter or buzzer to the left-hand side of the chassis, take the other test fly lead and carry out a "to be sure check" i.e. touch it onto another part of the metal chassis on the same side as the other lead is connected, you should now get a full scale deflection or reading on the multimeter or the buzzer will sound. If so this is correct.
Test 1: Leaving one fly lead on the chassis touch the other lead onto one of the two motors terminals. No reading on the meter or buzz should be observed. Swap this fly lead to the other motors terminal. Again no reading or buzz should be received. Test 2: Now move the chassis lead to the opposite (right-hand) side of the chassis and repeat both motor terminal tests. Again no buzz or meter reading should be present. Now remove all test fly leads.
If you received a reading/buzz between chassis and motor in either Test 1 or 2 then you will need to locate and remove whatever is causing the electrical contact to the motor before you can proceed any further.

Assuming all was correct (No readings or a buzz) proceed as follows: Connect the Orange & Grey decoder wires to the motor terminals by soldering then carefully in place ensuring no bare wire is able to touch any part of the chassis.
Now slip onto the Red and the Black decoder wires a short length of heat shrinkable tubing around 15mm long will be more than enough, strip and twist the Red decoder wire to one of the former motor wires (The red one perhaps?) and solder the joint. Do the same with the Black decoder wire to the remaining former motor wire. Once both joints have cooled slide the heat shrink tubing over each joint and gently and carefully shrink down with the aid of the soldering irons tip.
The decoder is now ready for programming and finally locating it into the body or onto chassis as appropriate. Ensure any bare chassis metal has a piece of insulating tape fitted to where the decoder is to be fixed to prevent the decoders circuit board ever coming into contact with the live chassis. If it does you will blow the decoder for sure!

Also you can remove all manufactures fitted TV/radio interference suppression capacitors from any circuit boards or possibly they may be connected across the motor terminals, as suppression is built into decoders -Just cut their leads off close to where they are soldered in.

Good luck
 
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