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Fitting Decoder to Bachman V2

4429 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  jmp200
Has anybody fitted a decoder to a Bachman V2
Regards JMP200
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Yes, the V2 is a split frame chassis, so it's common to the Ivatt tank, B1, GWR mogol,
Hall, etc.
You will probably need a smallish decoder, TCS M1, Digitrax 143, even a Zimo MX63 or MX64, try to stay away from a Lenz decoder for this one as they don't have a wrapper
which makes the installation a whole lot easier.
My Webpage
will help you, although this was written four years ago the principle remains the same.
I think the decoder will fit at the front on the chassis in the area of the smoke box door.
With regard to current collection from the chassis 1/2's I like the method showed in the Peco booklet (Sept issue I think) where they used paxolin stubs with the red and black wires soldered to them collecting current from the chassis 1/2's. There is a clear discription on how to do your installation in this booklet. DCC Decoder installation from Peco. One area that Peco don't mention but I recommend you pay attention to is cutting a channel for the decoder wires from the motor. It is quite possible to pinch the wires and make a short with the chassis. I normally use a Dremel for this job.
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once you get the motor isolated from the frame, you can fit the decoder at the rear of the chassis between the chassis casting and the firebox/boiler backhead on the body. There is enough space ther for a fairly big decoder up to 3-4mm gap thick, so you shouldn't need too small a decoder.

My usual method of isolating the motor from the frames is to disassemble the whole thing, then drill the frame out about 3mm where the motor brushes and the springs are located.
I forgot the V2 has brass current collectors for the Catzzai bogie under the cab, you can solder you current collection wires on to those (Red & black)
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Fitting the wires & decoder is ok but my problem now is refitting the coupling rods etc correctly, very time consuming & a lot of patience

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It gets easier the more you do. A simple trick is to take a picture of the rods before dis-assembly. Before you remove the wheel set mark which one is front, a simple cokey mark on the journal is sufficent, it is possible to refit the drivers the wrong way round, and while they should still work, it pays to re assemble the way it was.
Let us know your progress please
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Not a lot of success the plastic pins securing the top coupling rod broke. I managed to repair them but it does not run smoothly, the only plus was at least is wasn't a new locomotive.
buy another chassis for it, I see Bachmann have them in stock. If you want one fitted I'll do it for you, I always have decoders in stock.
I'll do it buy return mail.
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Thanks I will consider it . I have made use of the decoder in a tender driven Hornby A4, goes fine.
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