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Hi, could any body tell me the baseboard cut out size required to fit a Peco point motor?
Fitting Peco point motors
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If you wish to cut out the basebard make the hole the size of themotor when attached to the points.
The other way is to buy peco point mounting plates. If you set the point to their central position, I did this on 00 gauge, with two small length of insulated 7/002 wires. This holds the points at mid travel. Then I marked the baseboard by drilling through with a smal drill bit the size of the hole in the moving bar/sleeper.
Removed the points and enlarged the hole to allow the point motor pin to move fully from left to right. Then by placing the end of a wooden clothes peg with a hole drilled in it at exact midpoint over the pin an down between the two coils the motor is then offered up mounted on the plate and with the points refitted and the pin through the moving sleeper the points are fixed down and the plate screwed to the underside of the base board. This ensures the motor is central.
The other way is to buy peco point mounting plates. If you set the point to their central position, I did this on 00 gauge, with two small length of insulated 7/002 wires. This holds the points at mid travel. Then I marked the baseboard by drilling through with a smal drill bit the size of the hole in the moving bar/sleeper.
Removed the points and enlarged the hole to allow the point motor pin to move fully from left to right. Then by placing the end of a wooden clothes peg with a hole drilled in it at exact midpoint over the pin an down between the two coils the motor is then offered up mounted on the plate and with the points refitted and the pin through the moving sleeper the points are fixed down and the plate screwed to the underside of the base board. This ensures the motor is central.
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Your question suggests that you are going to cut a large hole. I think it is better, and certainly easier to disguise, to drill a row of small holes of about 2 mm diameter and then join them up to make a slot. However, this does mean that you have to find some way to attach the point motor below the baseboard.
Robert
Robert
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5,598 Posts
the easiest method is to use a Black & Decker Oscillating Multi-Tool *Perana" mine was around £25 quid on E Bay.
cuts ply like butter.
I just mark round the turnout and cut, it couldn't be quicker. When fitting the motor I use the turnout box its self
cut to size, fitted between the motor and the turnout, attached to the lugs to fill in the gap ready for ballasting.
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cuts ply like butter.
I just mark round the turnout and cut, it couldn't be quicker. When fitting the motor I use the turnout box its self
cut to size, fitted between the motor and the turnout, attached to the lugs to fill in the gap ready for ballasting.
Just to say a quick thanks Railstimulator as I have spent around 2 days getting a Peco solenoid to operate and had forgotten about this peg solution for centralising the solenoid drive pin. I made a quick solution with thick card with a slot cut so the pin and centre metal fixing pegs of the motor to the PL-9 are all aligned.
Then with a pair of cocktail sticks holding the switch blades centrally, positioned the point on top of the baseboard, mark the switch bar hole on the board with a thin pencil/ink pen, or drill through with ~1.5mm bit
Remove the point then drill a pilot hole so the actuator bar can drop through and position the point motor ON TOP of the baseboard with the SL-9 exactly at right angles to the track. Mark the mounting hole positions and drill right through the board with an undersize bit to the mounting screw eg 2mm maximum
Using a 10mm WOOD bit with the sharp centre spike, (I had used an 8mm and too small), drill out the centre actuator hole
Fit the point motor from underneath using the pilot holes as locators, ENSURING the card is still in place to centralise the point actuator pin
Install the point from above over the pin, also with the cocktail sticks still in place and secure well eg track pins or glue if that is your thing.
In summary, the same idea as yours and minimises the amount of time under the board with a cricked neck and crushed knee caps
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Cheers
Paul
QUOTE (railstimulator @ 6 Jun 2014, 16:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If you wish to cut out the basebard make the hole the size of themotor when attached to the points.
The other way is to buy peco point mounting plates. If you set the point to their central position, I did this on 00 gauge, with two small length of insulated 7/002 wires. This holds the points at mid travel. Then I marked the baseboard by drilling through with a smal drill bit the size of the hole in the moving bar/sleeper.
Removed the points and enlarged the hole to allow the point motor pin to move fully from left to right. Then by placing the end of a wooden clothes peg with a hole drilled in it at exact midpoint over the pin an down between the two coils the motor is then offered up mounted on the plate and with the points refitted and the pin through the moving sleeper the points are fixed down and the plate screwed to the underside of the base board. This ensures the motor is central.
Then with a pair of cocktail sticks holding the switch blades centrally, positioned the point on top of the baseboard, mark the switch bar hole on the board with a thin pencil/ink pen, or drill through with ~1.5mm bit
Remove the point then drill a pilot hole so the actuator bar can drop through and position the point motor ON TOP of the baseboard with the SL-9 exactly at right angles to the track. Mark the mounting hole positions and drill right through the board with an undersize bit to the mounting screw eg 2mm maximum
Using a 10mm WOOD bit with the sharp centre spike, (I had used an 8mm and too small), drill out the centre actuator hole
Fit the point motor from underneath using the pilot holes as locators, ENSURING the card is still in place to centralise the point actuator pin
Install the point from above over the pin, also with the cocktail sticks still in place and secure well eg track pins or glue if that is your thing.
In summary, the same idea as yours and minimises the amount of time under the board with a cricked neck and crushed knee caps
Cheers
Paul
QUOTE (railstimulator @ 6 Jun 2014, 16:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If you wish to cut out the basebard make the hole the size of themotor when attached to the points.
The other way is to buy peco point mounting plates. If you set the point to their central position, I did this on 00 gauge, with two small length of insulated 7/002 wires. This holds the points at mid travel. Then I marked the baseboard by drilling through with a smal drill bit the size of the hole in the moving bar/sleeper.
Removed the points and enlarged the hole to allow the point motor pin to move fully from left to right. Then by placing the end of a wooden clothes peg with a hole drilled in it at exact midpoint over the pin an down between the two coils the motor is then offered up mounted on the plate and with the points refitted and the pin through the moving sleeper the points are fixed down and the plate screwed to the underside of the base board. This ensures the motor is central.
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