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Ian Wigglesworth
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Ok folks, not quite 3million issues or £20K but it had to happen!

Build the flying Scotsman

Apparently it's a DJH kit, on that advertisement video it's 125 issues!!

So that breaks down to:-

Issue 1:- 0.50p
Issue 2:- £2.99
Issue 3 to 125:- £4.99ea

Total:- £617.26

This price does include wheels but no motor reading through the website it says it will off the motor/gearbox at a special rate later in the series!

What do we reckon to that then?

Looked on the DJH web site and you can buy an A3 for £462.00 + £100 for motor and gearbox + £128 for wheel set so to buy it direct in one hit £690.

To me that doesn't look too bad, would be about the only way I could ever afford to buy an O gauge loco...monthly!
For starting out in a brass kit though I would of thought a much simpler one would have been better!

All we need now is Hornby magazine to do an equivalent in OO gauge' perhaps a wagon, brass or plastic?

Ian
 

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Thank you for working the cost out Ian. Like you, I won't be buying it. besides, I already have a double-tender model of it produced by Hornby a few years back.
 

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QUOTE (wiggy25 @ 27 Dec 2007, 22:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>For starting out in a brass kit though I would of thought a much simpler one would have been better!

Ah, yes - but it would not be the Flying Scotsman - marketing forces at work ?

Just watch the sales decline with time.

Now, if it was Red and Black.....................
 

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I suppose for cash strapped individuals it's the way to go.
It would require some stamina though.
I wonder if there's any soldering involved?
Just thinking of Joe Public.
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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I have now found out some more info!

DJH have apparently sent drawings to Hachette so they can produce some of the components in plastic, someone spoke to DJH about it at Warley, the guy from DJH said the parts are being made by a 3rd party and they look good quality.

The wheels are not the slaters wheels though that DJH normally supply these have been made by a 3rd party again the DJH guy said they were good quality from what he had seen.

Somebody has already built the cab which comes with part one, and in the instructions everything is glued using epoxy resin type glue or super glue..NO SOLDER anywhere!
The guy who has already built the cab has actually used solder though.

I would like to go for this, but I would follow the instructions and use glue just to see if you could actually get a decent working model just by following thier instructions!

At just over 2 years to complete it's certainly not a sprint!

Oh and reading the website, you actually get 4 copies every month delivered, not one a week, so at least every month you should get enough parts to make it worth while in doing something!

Ian
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry Doug, saw that after I had posted this!

If I go for it, I will post any progress reports here as it is a magazine, although it could go in a few topics!

I will buy the first copy as it's only 50p, I don't think you could buy the brass for that!!

Will see how it goes from there.

Ian
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well bought issue 1, at 50p not really a bank breaker!

Reading the blurb it will give the oportunity to buy at a special discounted price a controller and motor from issue number 5!
The controller is a Gaugemaster combi the motor is a:-
"Sultzer 12v motor/gearbox unit double 2.0mm shaft, 8200rpm; gearbox in brass, bronze and steel, ration 25:1"

I have no idea if this is the original motor gearbox that would be supplied by DJH if you were to buy from them, I may send an email and ask!

The kit will include "waterslide transfers for lettering and lining"
Depending on what they say is a special discounted price for the motor/controller bearing in mind the controller can be picked up for £30 and if it is the motor gearbox from DJH which is £100 I reckon this will end up about £100 more than buying from DJH direct.

Partwork £617.26 plus motor/gearbox and controller

DJH £690 plus transfers and controller

Will just have to wait and see I guess, still thinking about going for it or not!

Anyway here is the cab, all built to the instructions, the wash out plug holes in the cab sides were not holes, just half etched out, I just made a small hole then opened them up with a file.
I also ran a bead of glue down the inside cab edges, there is just not enough area to bond on relying only on the edges, so slight deviation from instructions already, better than the cab sides falling off!



Ian
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
It says use glue,

For the whole build it will be a mix of super glue and epoxy resin.
The only time you use a soldering iron is if you intend to have the motor.

I use slaters 'thick' super glue it doesn't go off straight away(maybe 5-10 seconds) which is good as those window frames need to be moved slightly for correct alignment!

Anyway, as the cab is now done it can be put away until next required..........could be week 10 or week 60 who knows!
The next 4 weeks are the footplate, and each side of the chassis.

Ian
 

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I have been considering this myself, do you know if it includes the tender? Dosen't seem to mention it anywhere!
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Yes it does include the tender.

On the poster that comes with issue one the dimensions are as follows:-

Locomotive:- 320mm long x 93mm high x 65mm wide
Tender :- 185mm x 90mm x 63mm

Oh and a further point in my reply above, the instructions do say use glue, but you can if you want use solder instead of gluing.
The choice is yours.

Ian
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok guys and gals,

Thought it over and have subscribed, starting with issue one, which will be my back-up cab incase it's required, as it's only 50p not really a problem.

I have now found that the motor that Hatchette are advertising is available from DJH HERE
This is £51.50, so it will be interesting to see what special offer deal the magazine will charge for the pick-ups motor mount and controller.
I have looked at the DJH web site and it looks like the plunger pick-ups are supplied with the wheel set, these are £9.50 for 6(slaters)
So we can get the combi controller for £30
The motor/gearbox for £51.50
The pick-ups for £9.50
Total of £91 + the cost of the motor mount and I guess a length of track they are offering as well I think.
This is just a bit of information for anybody else who intends to have a go, so they have an easy price reference guide, I'm sure it would be possible to buy just the motor mount from DJH as this kit is based on theirs anyway, don't know at what price though!

I will probably start a new topic just for the build saga showing parts and pics as I go along, as I think it will make it easier to follow(thats if it's ok with admin)

Ian
 

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Hi,
The FS is only the 2nd O gauge/ 7mm loco I have tried, although I have built a number of O gauge waggons etc. The 1st loco was brass etched & soldered but I found later that many of the parts needed to be laminated as the shim brass supplied was too thin on it's own. This became a nightmare for the valve gear trying to solder two parts and expect them to slide together? so I recently discarded the kit. I have read many of the postings on "Building the FS" and have decided this would be more to my ability.
The cab I built with the windows fitted detail outside, which was OK but fiddly, I then decided as the frame detail fitted better on the inside to remove and fit them all with the frame outside and the detail inside. I see now from the designers comments on one of the blogs that this is how he ment them to fit. My good fortune not expertise but I could not really see from the instructions which way was correct. The instructions I believe are very good but I can see that expert help from the blog may be required if I / we are to avoid other short commings. QUOTE (wiggy25 @ 29 Dec 2007, 14:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Well bought issue 1, at 50p not really a bank breaker!

Reading the blurb it will give the oportunity to buy at a special discounted price a controller and motor from issue number 5!
The controller is a Gaugemaster combi the motor is a:-
"Sultzer 12v motor/gearbox unit double 2.0mm shaft, 8200rpm; gearbox in brass, bronze and steel, ration 25:1"

I have no idea if this is the original motor gearbox that would be supplied by DJH if you were to buy from them, I may send an email and ask!

The kit will include "waterslide transfers for lettering and lining"
Depending on what they say is a special discounted price for the motor/controller bearing in mind the controller can be picked up for £30 and if it is the motor gearbox from DJH which is £100 I reckon this will end up about £100 more than buying from DJH direct.

Partwork £617.26 plus motor/gearbox and controller

DJH £690 plus transfers and controller

Will just have to wait and see I guess, still thinking about going for it or not!

Anyway here is the cab, all built to the instructions, the wash out plug holes in the cab sides were not holes, just half etched out, I just made a small hole then opened them up with a file.
I also ran a bead of glue down the inside cab edges, there is just not enough area to bond on relying only on the edges, so slight deviation from instructions already, better than the cab sides falling off!


Ian
 

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i thought about it myself but then i didnt think i would be able to afford the monthly cost as im only a student..but its nice to see somepeople are actually buying the model
 

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I have followed the DVD instructions for this model and have a problem with the foot plate. Although the magazine instructions don't mention this the DVD shows drilling out two 'posts' with a 2.5mm drill. I drilled a 1mm pilot hole and found a fault in the casting in both posts. Realising I needed to secure the chassis and foot plate with the four M2 nuts and bolts I drilled the posts or what remained of them out to 2.5mm. Can some one advise if these posts can be removed and smoothed, replaced with two suitable height spacers or perhaps wrapping the remainder with spare brass fret to retain rigidity. What is the purpose of them later in the construction? Can other builders of this model also let me know if they received the 4 x M2 nuts and bolts to join foot plate to chassis, again this is shown in the DVD but I have received issue 6 now and still no nuts n boltsQUOTE (0-6-0ST @ 1 Feb 2008, 14:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi,
The FS is only the 2nd O gauge/ 7mm loco I have tried, although I have built a number of O gauge waggons etc. The 1st loco was brass etched & soldered but I found later that many of the parts needed to be laminated as the shim brass supplied was too thin on it's own. This became a nightmare for the valve gear trying to solder two parts and expect them to slide together? so I recently discarded the kit. I have read many of the postings on "Building the FS" and have decided this would be more to my ability.
The cab I built with the windows fitted detail outside, which was OK but fiddly, I then decided as the frame detail fitted better on the inside to remove and fit them all with the frame outside and the detail inside. I see now from the designers comments on one of the blogs that this is how he ment them to fit. My good fortune not expertise but I could not really see from the instructions which way was correct. The instructions I believe are very good but I can see that expert help from the blog may be required if I / we are to avoid other short commings.
 

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QUOTE (0-6-0ST @ 6 Feb 2008, 15:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have followed the DVD instructions for this model and have a problem with the foot plate. Although the magazine instructions don't mention this the DVD shows drilling out two 'posts' with a 2.5mm drill. I drilled a 1mm pilot hole and found a fault in the casting in both posts. Realising I needed to secure the chassis and foot plate with the four M2 nuts and bolts I drilled the posts or what remained of them out to 2.5mm. Can some one advise if these posts can be removed and smoothed, replaced with two suitable height spacers or perhaps wrapping the remainder with spare brass fret to retain rigidity. What is the purpose of them later in the construction? Can other builders of this model also let me know if they received the 4 x M2 nuts and bolts to join foot plate to chassis, again this is shown in the DVD but I have received issue 6 now and still no nuts n bolts
I have just completed part 8 of the Scotsman and would like some engineering comment / feedback on their last instruction for the Tender drawbar fitting.
The instructions ask you to increase the hole at one end to fit a brass bush, glue this bush to the drawbar and then fit this small assembly to the rear of the chassis with an M2 screw. Further information is not to tighten this screw because the drawbar needs to move side to side. Although I hear all the comments with regard to this model as "few if any will be complete let alone move" I would expect that any that do move will find the tender de-coupled and need to search for that tiny M2 screw to re-couple. In it's operating position this screw is head down and "loose" I have followed the instructions apart from gluing the bush to the bar. This enables me to tighten, limited force, the M2 screw and this enables the bar although secure may move freely as required. I hope that I am not commiting some engineering fore-par-ish in doing this but would welcome any comments.
Neil
 

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QUOTE (0-6-0ST @ 25 Feb 2008, 14:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have just completed part 8 of the Scotsman and would like some engineering comment / feedback on their last instruction for the Tender drawbar fitting.
The instructions ask you to increase the hole at one end to fit a brass bush, glue this bush to the drawbar and then fit this small assembly to the rear of the chassis with an M2 screw. Further information is not to tighten this screw because the drawbar needs to move side to side. Although I hear all the comments with regard to this model as "few if any will be complete let alone move" I would expect that any that do move will find the tender de-coupled and need to search for that tiny M2 screw to re-couple. In it's operating position this screw is head down and "loose" I have followed the instructions apart from gluing the bush to the bar. This enables me to tighten, limited force, the M2 screw and this enables the bar although secure may move freely as required. I hope that I am not commiting some engineering fore-par-ish in doing this but would welcome any comments.
NeilHi,
Building the Scotsman the drive offered in the magazine is the Sulzer 12v motor I have an existing motor which is the Mashima MH-1833D. This has some matching specs. ie. 12v, 5 pole, twin 2.0 mm shaft, operating speed 8,000rpm torque at this speed is 20g/cm. I do not know the stalled torque. Does anyone know if this motor is in any way useable for the FS or as I suspect is this too small for such a large loco. If this was suitable would DJH be likely to sell the gearbox alone to fit the Mashima. I know this is a long shot but at £91 pounds for Motor, pickups, Combi and a piece of track, I dont need most of this, from the Mag or £64 for Motor & pickups direct from DJH I was just trying to save a penny or two. Don't shout if this is so obviously not going to work.
Neil
 

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QUOTE (Doug @ 25 Feb 2008, 15:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Why not try it with a gearbox from DJH. You can pick up parts from them.

SULZER Motor/Gearbox Unit is £51.50 at DJH (http://www.djhengineering.co.uk/loco/prodloco.asp?ProdID=3369)
Hi Doug,
I was quoted the £51.50 from DJH for the Sulzer, my £64 was the toatl for Sulzer motor, pickups and postage. What I was uncertain about was is my Mashima motor man enough for the job and will I be able to obtain the gear box / mounting to suit the FS. DJH did advise that their quote of £64 which excluded the track & Controller did not appear to them as good value compared to the magazines offer. If I am unsure of the Mashima I may take up DJH's offer which will save me £20-30 pounds off the magazine offer. Thanks for your info any more help would be appreciated.
Neil
 
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