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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having fun with a Flying Scotsman R1039. Not quite sure where to start. It is a tender drive. Should I snip the capacitor off?

It also seems to take power from the Loco and the Tender wheels. Sends the negative back to the loco and the metal frame that holds the motor in place. Should I just follow these instructions as the motor looks similar? http://www.electricnose.co.uk/dcc/dcchornby90.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I sorted it out. Just cut every thing away from the motor and then solered the decoder on following the instructions above. Also removed the clip that attaches the negative to the motor chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hmmmm, getting bad wheel slippage now on the Flying Scotsman. Anyone have any ideas? My son is over the moon that it is working, so it's a result in kind.
 

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>getting bad wheel slippage
This sounds similar to a problem someone else has reported on a Hornby 73(?) which as far as I can remember is unresolved. You haven't said what decoder you are fitting - Hornby?

David
 

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Hi Stevie
I think the tender dive unit on the Hornby Flying Scotsman is the asame as the one used on the Hornby A4.
I have converted all my (3) A4s to DCC without any problems
My web site shows the details www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.htm (Unfortunatly the forum wont allow me to enter the link as a hyperlink via the insert a link icon!). So just copy and paste the link into your brouser then scroll down this page - about 3/4 of the way down to the section titled "The Ringfield Motor".
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I installed the R8215 controller. The A3's and A4s looked simular inside. I think the capacitors are the real problem. It is working fine apart from the wheel slippage. Thanks for your help.
 

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QUOTE (Stevie @ 30 Dec 2006, 11:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I installed the R8215 controller. The A3's and A4s looked simular inside. I think the capacitors are the real problem. It is working fine apart from the wheel slippage. Thanks for your help.

Remove the capacitors (always) & see what effect that has.

Please let us know the outcome - also have you set the acceleration CV to allow gradual build up of speed ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I removed all the capacitors, after reading one of Doug's articles which was very helpful. I also took a photo of the tender with all the connections, just in case it did not work and I needed more exact help.

I set the acceleration CV but my 4 year old son set it up to double head with his gronk, so that has all been reset to 0 now. After all it was all brought with his saved pocket money so it is his. I'm more into 5" gauge or bigger live steam, something you can make a fire in and sit on
.

But this stuff is proving irresistible on a cold wet winter day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The slippage issue. Looks like it has a rubber tyre on one of the driving wheels in the tender. If this is on the inside of a curve wheel slip occurs. Seeing's that my son only has a 6x4 track I have turned the loco around so that the rubber tyre is on the outside of the bends and this has resolved the wheel slippage.
 

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If the wheels are slipping, you need to add traction tyres or add weight to the section above the drive wheels - in this case the tender. Add some lead shot or fishing weights under the coal load.

Program the decoder to start off slowly, building up speed steadily. Try setting the acceleration delay to about 15 and see if it makes a difference.
 

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I have a flying scotsman and it worked fine and suddenly started skidding and slipping everywhere. One of the tyres had come off, and luckily was conviniently lying by the track so i put it back on (took bloody ages) and it worked fine for about 5mins until the tyre came off again.

Also, the tenders wheel sets seem to float and flex in a way that means that they derail very easily. They look like they are railed on one side, but on the other side its not resting on the rail and it is spinning. In this situation, it is easier to just take the tender off and put it back on. Also, the scotsman cant go round 1st radius curves, this causes it to derail in that annoying way where you cant see that it has derailed and it slips...
 

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QUOTE (hoarp001 @ 31 Dec 2006, 02:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have a flying scotsman and it worked fine and suddenly started skidding and slipping everywhere. One of the tyres had come off, and luckily was conviniently lying by the track so i put it back on (took bloody ages) and it worked fine for about 5mins until the tyre came off again.

Also, the tenders wheel sets seem to float and flex in a way that means that they derail very easily. They look like they are railed on one side, but on the other side its not resting on the rail and it is spinning. In this situation, it is easier to just take the tender off and put it back on. Also, the scotsman cant go round 1st radius curves, this causes it to derail in that annoying way where you cant see that it has derailed and it slips...

Once a traction tyre (tire to keep Dennis happy - TIC) has come off it will have streatched and as you have found out will keep comming off. Usually this means it was either overstreatched when fitted or has become hard through oil & dirt contamination with use. The nylon type ones are more prone to hardening than the rubbery ones.

Regarding the derailing of the tender - try checking the "back to backs" & make sure that all the traction tyres are seated evenly in the grooves.

Please let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Added a piece of sheet lead under the coal. Slowed the engine down but apart from that it works a treat.
 
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