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we have a folding board....hinges set up on wooden blocks, about 6" or so above datum....turns into a rectangular box.

For track connections across the join, I feel there are two decent approaches.

[1]....if very few tracks actually cross the two tracks, one each side of an oval...then I suggest the system once used by the NMRA Brit.region for their module system....viz..terminate each rtack about 2 or 3 inches from the edge.

Then make up a lenght of track [flex, like peco, is best]....that bridges each if terminating 2 inches from the edge, a 4 inch filler track is needed.
Cut back the plastic sleepering for about 1/2 inch each end of filler track, and place Peco fishplates, 4 off per filler, so they can slide up the rail. when board is erected, insert filler track...sliding the fishplates into contact with the 'permanent' track.

Ensure whatever track sub-base you use is continued to the edge of each board.

by having the fishplates on the filler tracks, the 'main' tracks don't have to be 'weakened' by cutting back sleeper fixings.

If a filler track breaks, make a new one?

[2] as I have done this time around.......with the boards 'flat',each track that crosses is laid right across...[I have 4 such tracks, all at odd angles] does NOT have to be a right-angles to the edges of the board.
Across teh gap of the board, I removed two or three sleepers from either side....then inserted printed circuit board, raised up by packing, to the bottom of each rail.
These are made from a small sheet I bought years ago.....and each piece used was about 1/2inch wide or slightly more, and the lenght of the track's sleepers....but preferably, more.......however, a trip to a Maplins, or similar, will obtain a piece of PCB....[it is what copper-clad sleeper strip is made of]

These pieces are then soldered to the undersides of each rail, across the board gap.

They can then either be glued firmly [araldite??] or even have holes drilled in each end, and small screws screwed through into the baseboard top....or pins...whatever takes your fancy?

Once the rails are firmly secured to the PCB, and this likewise to the boards.....using a very fine saw, or slitting disc..[I use a razor saw]....cut through the rails, and PCB, down into the slot between the two boards.

File off any sharp edges on each rail...a quick swipe here and there is all that is needed.

Then file a clean slot through the copper cladding on the PCB between each rail of the eliminate short circuits.

try not to cut too deeply into the insulation on the PCB.

now you will find, the boards will separate, and join but the rail ends will be secured against accidental damage.

Guard the rail ends when teh boards are folded, to protect from damge, or cutting small fingers.

The advantage of [1] is that the tracks are protected from end damage...because they are cut inboard of the baseboard joint.....but, not a useful system for speedy erection of the railway.

the 'disadvantage' of #[2] is that, if the hinge system loosens or moves slightly, or the boards warp a little, the rails will fall out of these need watching....especially in centrally-heated rooms. However, since the rails are SOLDERED to the PCB, any slight misaligment can be corrected with a soldering iron?

· Registered
2,202 Posts create the electrical connection across each board......I use each steel hinge.....outer rails linked by wire, soldered into holes drilled in the hinge flap of one hinge, the inner rails likewise to the other hinge.

However, once my little son had decided he wanted a turntable [!] and a few other sidings, a platform bay, etc, I needed to power what would be 'isolated' sections, so ended up with a 5 pin DIN plug and socket connection across the gap as well......but this is easy, when folding, just unplug!
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