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Fulgurex point motor control

22525 Views 70 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  dwb
This week's project is to add control circuitry for a Fulgurex slow motion point motor. The photo below shows the parts I intend to use:


Those familiar with driving Fulgurex will probably think this is a bit over the top, but there is method in my madness and each component has its place in my scheme.

First, it is my intention in the longer term to drive the point motor via DCC, but there may be times when I don't want to have to go to the bother of addressing the motor via the control unit and then selecting the direction I want. To avoid that, I need a local switch. Some DCC point motor controls provide a facility for local buttons, but I'm not sure which those are and whether or not I will use them. In the meantime, I need to control the motor now because unlike Peco solenoids, you can't manually "flick" a Fulgurex. My solution to this need is to use a normally open, momentary action DPDT switch which can be seen in the left of the photo.

The momentary nature of the switch means that once the limit has been reached and the current is switched off, I can release the switch and there will be no current at all. This should avoid conflicts with any DCC control unit I install later. The drawback with this method is that I lose the switch acting as an indicator for the current setting of the point blades. The solution to this problem is to use one set of auxiliary contacts on the Fulgurex to drive the pair of LEDs which are also on the left along with the resistors and matching mounting bezels. This will provide a visual indication by the switch of the current setting. When DCC control is added, any changes caused by the DCC unit will be reflected by the LEDs. This circuit may also double up as input to a pair feedback sensors to provide PC control some time in the distant future.

The ceramic disc capacitor at the bottom of the photo is to provide a degree of noise suppression. According to LDT, the Fulgurex is rather "noisy" electrically and this is a good precaution. Once the motor is installed under the baseboard, I don't fancy lying on my back trying to retrofit these things later, so they're going in now.

The other two devices beside the capacitor are a pair of Zener diodes. This again is an LDT recommendation for reducing the voltage supply to the motor to reduce the change over speed. I'm doing this because the motor will be supplied at about 14v DC which is a bit on the high side.

I will be using the other pair of microswitch contacts to change the frog polarity on the point. The switch blades themselves are hard wired to the outer rails. This eliminates the potential for shorts should the microswitch change over before the moving point blade has ceased making contact with the outer rail. A short on an analogue DC layout is no problem, but it will shut down DCC which is not a good thing.

The black stringy stuff in the top right is heat shrink tubing which I will use to make sure there are no bare wires straggling about.

Now I just need to find something to mount the switch and LEDs on. Panel thickness is a bit of an issue for these LED bezels because the LEDs are quite small.

David
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Dear David,
I have also used Fulgerex motors. I work these from a +12-0-12V supply via a change-over switch. This leaves the voltage applied to the motors which can be used via the unused tab on the limit switch each end of the motor to feed back to an LED showing which way the point is set. So the auxilary switches are left free for other functions, such as interlocking with signals.
Regards,
John Webb
Dear David,
I agree with Columbo - use a centre punch to mark the hole. I also tend to use a 1 to 3mm drill to make an initial hole before drilling out the hole to the final required size.

Re a drill stand - I bought a Clarke's bench drill for about £35. This has an adjustable belt drive for different speeds for different size drills. It gives much better control when drilling than a hand-held drill, and I have found it very useful.

Regards,
John Webb
David,
Drilling the small diameter pilot holes just rest the panel on a piece of 12mm to 20mm MDF board or plywood. Press down firmly to keep the metal panel from shifting with one hand and use the other to operate the drill. For holes 6mm or over use a clamp of some sort each end to hold the panel to the wood board. (The wood board supports the panel and stops the drill going into the table of the drill.) For holes over 10mm diameter I'd bolt the board to the drill table with countersunk screws and then clamp the panel to the wood.
It's also good practice with larger holes to check the drill is central to the pilot hole by lowering the drill over the pilot hole before turning the drill motor on.

DON'T WEAR heavy-duty work GLOVES when drilling - swarf can catch in gloves and if the hand slips and catches the rotating drill there is a real risk of the drill trying to drag the whole hand round. Light surgical type gloves are OK to protect against oil and dirt. Goggles (or impact resistant spectacles with side guards) should be worn - swarf can fly some distance. Regularly use a dustpan and brush to remove swarf etc from around the drill, workbench and floor in the area of the drill.

All holes drilled in aluminium will need a light deburr on the reverse side - a small ridge of metal is thrown up as the drill goes through. This ridge can be sharp and I don't recommend touching them.
The switch locking ring actually needs a hole or depression drilled to take the little down-turned bit on the ring, usually about 2mm diameter - measure the width to make sure.

It might be worth looking in a library or local bookshop for books on basic metalwork. (My knowledge comes from doing an O-level in 'Engineering Workshop Theory and Practice' about 40+ years ago!)

Regards,
John Webb

PS Yes, you are right about the Model number of the drill I bought.
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David,
I used a plastic spiral round the cables in my control panel (and underneath the layout) to keep them tidy - the spiral easily allows wires in and out and adjusts to different quantities of wire to keep them together.
Regards,
John Webb
On the control panal I made for my simple layout (well, compared to David's one) I use small squares of 'Veroboard' behind each LED. These squares are soldered to the LED leads and also hold the series resistor. The connecting wires go to the tracks on the Veroboard rather than direct to the LED. This gives greater mechanical strength and makes replacement easier if ever needed.

Regards,
John Webb
To Doug re panel production:
The method used will depend on the size of your panel. If you only have an A4 sized printer, you will need either to limit your panel to A4 or your drawing or DTP program will need to be able to print out a larger sheet onto several A4 pages.

You could either simply stick the pages down onto the metal panel or the following might work.
Print out onto Overhead Projector Transparency sheets with a negative image - ie the 'track' is clear and the background black.
Photo-resist spray the panel and arrange the printed OHP sheets on it and expose to light as per the Resist instructions.
Develop etc. This should leave you with photo-resist on the background and the tracks clear. Now paint over the tracks with whatever colours you want.
Clean off the unwanted paint and photoresist which should leave you with a clear metal background.

Please note this is all theoretical - I have not tried it myself!

Another route is to find someone with silk-screen printing techniques and use that process to transfer your layout onto the metal panel.
Regards,
John Webb
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