Looks alarmingly delicate, David (but wonderfully, so, too!) - how hard was it to bend each side of the lattice? Did you use a jig?
Fully operational 4mm scale semaphore signal
Barely had I posted the youtube video of my first ever operating signal built from an MSE kit, than a comment was made that I should write a step by step guide. As the warm glow of success and satisfaction has not yet worn off, I've taken up the suggestion so this topic will be a complete step by step record of how I build, light and motorise using a servo, another MSE signal kit - this time S4/KE2 - an LNER (ex-NB/GNSR) upper quadrant lattice post signal.
This signal is strictly correct for my layout, but I've got the kit and looking at some of the other kits in the MSE range, I think it is very similar to an LMS lattice upper quadrant signal, the difference appearing to be in the finial and lamp detail.
First the contents of the kit.
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The instructions are extremely comprehensive, covering both sides of that folded piece of A4 paper. The sheer volume of information is rather off putting, but when you strip out the extremely useful advice and background information, the number of operations required to build the signal is actually quite manageable.
I don't know if it's just me but I seem to need a lot of tools just to accomplish this simple (?) task. First the head mounted magnifier and a strip of wet and dry left over from a car repair long ago
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Builders of lattice post signals have one additional step to perform compared to other post types - first build your post.
Both sides of the lattice fret have been burnished with the wet and dry. They were then tinned along the edges on both sides. I have an Antex 50W iron and use flux and DCC Concepts 179 degree solder. Once done, it looked like this
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The two halves were then removed from the fret, bent to 90 degrees and the joint partially filled with solder. The square helped to check for the 90 degrees and the pliers to keep the shape.
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The two halves were then soldered to the base and to each other with the help of the jigs which are part of the fret
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So far the elapsed time is about one hour 45 minutes.
The next step is to file off the tabs from the side of the post.
To be continued....
David
This signal is strictly correct for my layout, but I've got the kit and looking at some of the other kits in the MSE range, I think it is very similar to an LMS lattice upper quadrant signal, the difference appearing to be in the finial and lamp detail.
First the contents of the kit.
The instructions are extremely comprehensive, covering both sides of that folded piece of A4 paper. The sheer volume of information is rather off putting, but when you strip out the extremely useful advice and background information, the number of operations required to build the signal is actually quite manageable.
I don't know if it's just me but I seem to need a lot of tools just to accomplish this simple (?) task. First the head mounted magnifier and a strip of wet and dry left over from a car repair long ago
Builders of lattice post signals have one additional step to perform compared to other post types - first build your post.
Both sides of the lattice fret have been burnished with the wet and dry. They were then tinned along the edges on both sides. I have an Antex 50W iron and use flux and DCC Concepts 179 degree solder. Once done, it looked like this
The two halves were then removed from the fret, bent to 90 degrees and the joint partially filled with solder. The square helped to check for the 90 degrees and the pliers to keep the shape.
The two halves were then soldered to the base and to each other with the help of the jigs which are part of the fret
So far the elapsed time is about one hour 45 minutes.
The next step is to file off the tabs from the side of the post.
To be continued....
David
5
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I do like the look of the MSC kit.
The chap selling them at exhibitions is always friendly and gives me a nod.
The trouble is that I dont have a layout and never have a need to buy any of the things he sells.
Those nods now make me feel a bit guilty!
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Looks really good so far david.
Peter
The chap selling them at exhibitions is always friendly and gives me a nod.
The trouble is that I dont have a layout and never have a need to buy any of the things he sells.
Those nods now make me feel a bit guilty!
Looks really good so far david.
Peter
I'm totally blown away in admiration at the whole intense precision of 4mm operational semaphore signalling that you premier league modellers within MRF are prepared to demonstrate to us ordiinary old gits....
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LF&T
LF&T
3
QUOTE how hard was it to bend each side of the lattice? Did you use a jig?
Gentle pressure between fore finger and thumb on my right hand - and yes I am right handed. I did a little at a time up and down the length of the fret.
QUOTE I dont have a layout and never have a need to buy any of the things he sells.
I think they're worth building in their own right - no need for a layout as an excuse
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Part of this is me honing my skills for some outside valve gear....
QUOTE That accomplished when can we await your part two please?
I hope that developments will be more or less continuous as free time permits. I might get some filing done tonight....
QUOTE The LMS used flat strip riveted to the angle corners, so the strips crossed each other and were only in contact for a short distance. The LNER used a different approach of the strips 'zig-zagging' and being fixed together over several inches at each joint, so there is a bit of a difference in appearance. I've not actually handled any of MSE's lattice models, so don't know how well, or otherwise, they capture the difference.
I have to admit I've not researched it as closely as that. My primary interest in lattice signals is to learn the ropes and then break out and build those iconic gallows signals which acted as the starters at Leeds Central.
Thanks for the compliments, they are appreciated.
David
Gentle pressure between fore finger and thumb on my right hand - and yes I am right handed. I did a little at a time up and down the length of the fret.
QUOTE I dont have a layout and never have a need to buy any of the things he sells.
I think they're worth building in their own right - no need for a layout as an excuse
QUOTE That accomplished when can we await your part two please?
I hope that developments will be more or less continuous as free time permits. I might get some filing done tonight....
QUOTE The LMS used flat strip riveted to the angle corners, so the strips crossed each other and were only in contact for a short distance. The LNER used a different approach of the strips 'zig-zagging' and being fixed together over several inches at each joint, so there is a bit of a difference in appearance. I've not actually handled any of MSE's lattice models, so don't know how well, or otherwise, they capture the difference.
I have to admit I've not researched it as closely as that. My primary interest in lattice signals is to learn the ropes and then break out and build those iconic gallows signals which acted as the starters at Leeds Central.
Thanks for the compliments, they are appreciated.
David
The results of tonight's session.
The tabs on the post have been filed away and the post is able to stand upright. I've cunningly take the photo at an angle so you can't see if it's truly square or not
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I have a small set of abrasive files which I picked up from one of the many tool vendors who attend model railway exhibitions. They're nothing special and I'm beginning to think that they may have a finite life.
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This clip is 100% and shows the detail and my left over tinning....
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Next I opened out the holes in the spectacle plate for the operating wire and bearing axle. I prefer to use reams and broaches rather than successively larger drill bits as I find it easier to keep the hole centred on its original position. I also needed the services of the steel rule for drawing rather bad guide lines for painting the black chevron - this will be a distant signal. I think I might use the distant arm left over from my first kit. The pincher tool was needed because the blinder has a very thin tab connecting it to the fret and it breaks under the slightest pressure. The pincher helps me to support as I enlarge the hole for the bearing rod. It took quite a while and I don't recommend it if you're getting tired.... The broaches and reamers came from Squires a year or too ago.
The various wires used to check the holes were large enough are also in the photo.
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Just to prove that I really did open out some holes, here's a 100% clip. I've done one of the balance arms too.
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Time spent ~ 2 hours
The next step is to build the signal arm and mount it on the post.
David
The tabs on the post have been filed away and the post is able to stand upright. I've cunningly take the photo at an angle so you can't see if it's truly square or not
This clip is 100% and shows the detail and my left over tinning....
Next I opened out the holes in the spectacle plate for the operating wire and bearing axle. I prefer to use reams and broaches rather than successively larger drill bits as I find it easier to keep the hole centred on its original position. I also needed the services of the steel rule for drawing rather bad guide lines for painting the black chevron - this will be a distant signal. I think I might use the distant arm left over from my first kit. The pincher tool was needed because the blinder has a very thin tab connecting it to the fret and it breaks under the slightest pressure. The pincher helps me to support as I enlarge the hole for the bearing rod. It took quite a while and I don't recommend it if you're getting tired.... The broaches and reamers came from Squires a year or too ago.
The various wires used to check the holes were large enough are also in the photo.
Just to prove that I really did open out some holes, here's a 100% clip. I've done one of the balance arms too.
Time spent ~ 2 hours
The next step is to build the signal arm and mount it on the post.
David
5
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