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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi guys
Progress has been good, the insulating, plaster boarding, wall papering has all been done and I'm currently painting the wallpaper.
2 quick questions, when I cover my 9mm ply in PVA do I apply it neat or do I dilute it with water ?

And I was at the Taunton model show at the weekend and one of the retailers had 1.5mm cork and 3mm cork, any preference or recommendation which I should go for ?

Many thanks
Dave
 

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I use 3mm cork which I buy as floor tiles from Wickes. They are £8.99 for nine tiles each 305mm square. I cut each one into eight strips 38mm wide as track underlay so this gives me a total of 72 ft or alost 22m from each pack. They can be used like this for straight track sections or ones with a very gentle curve. For real curves I split them down the middle and each half curves much more easily and down to about 60cm radius without a problem. (I doubt this process would be suitable for set-track radii though.) Once fixed down with Evostik PVA glue, I use a craft knife to cut an angle at the edges which gives a reasonable shoulder.

Robert

P.S. I've just checked and they are currently £1 off.
 

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I used untreated plywood for my previous layout. When dismantled after about three years it showed no signs of warping and some of it will be used in the rebuild - again untreated. Having said that, my garage is part of the bungalow and perfectly dry and does not have too much temperature variation. This is because it has double-skinned walls with insulation, a pitched roof with plenty of insulation, and the car door permanently closed and sealed. In effect it is just a spare room of the bungalow.

Robert
 

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Hi Dave,

Glad to see you making good progress. As Robert says, if your room is reasonably dry, ventilated and insulated to keep the worst extremes of temperature variation at bay, and you've got reasonably good quality plywood, then un-treated should be fine. Some of my un-treated 6mm ply is on it's third layout with no problems. If you do decide to seal it (paint, varnish or PVA) I would suggest you do both faces - just doing one face will encourage the board to curl.

Cheers,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks Mike, and your right, not bad as I work 8-6 mon fri. Off to get a carpet on Saturday and then I can start building the bases.

Hope you are well
Dave

Ps. I got down to buffers and model masters in Weston recently, both great shops, and we also did the Taunton model show at the school, which was also very good, and the wife has bought more than me
)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi Guys

Well its all been very exciting just lately planning planning planning. We had our fence replaced in the garden and I asked the guy who did it to save me all the posts, they may have been rotten at the bottoms but the main part of the posts are fine and so I will use these to make the legs for the layout, 21 posts should get me quite a way round and save me some ££££'s. So hopefully this weekend I start constructing the bases.
I've also been thinking about whether to try converting all my insulfrog points to electrofrog or just buy new - i'm leaning toward new as this will be my permanent layout and will hopefully save any derailing/pick up problems further into the project.

I'm still undecided which DCC system to use, I have e-link Railmaster but am open to suggestions and am still investigating.

I have decided on a plan for the layout from the Peco plan book that I will modify slightly for my plans.

I'm so excited at the moment !!!!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
View attachment SCAN0685_000.pdf

Hi everyone, I am in need of some advice. I have decided to do Peco track plan 21 in my 15x7 workshop. hopefully you can see the plan in the attachment, if not i'll post it again in a mo.
Instead of it being a walk around the outside layout I am going to open it up so the track goes round the outside of the room and you go into the middle through a removable section by the doors.

I have decided I wanted a fiddle yard and I thought the best place to put it would by under the top side of the diagram running along the 15' wall feeding back up to the hidden section. I have built the bases/legs already and have my 12mm ply to put on top to make the baseboard. I have made the legs 28in high, they were longer but as my wife pointed out, having 4 inches to get your hand in for any de-railments/issues might be a bit tight. So I chopped 2 inches off the legs to give me a 6 inch opening. So if I start at 28in and add 6 inches for the gap to the next level up, then we want to model a Dawlish styled sea wall with the station and tunnels to the left. to make the sea wall I thought i'd add another board 2in high to get the rise/make a wall, this makes the height now 36in.
Then when the right hand side of the track comes up and over, to get enough clearance I would need another 3in ???? which would make the far right end 39in high, is that too much ??? or should I make my fiddle yard EVEN lower ???

Thanks in advance
Dave.
 

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I know that you have a larger space than the original plan but if you want 6" between levels then you could end up with gradients that are too steep. I have noticed that a lot of people writing about plans on this forum don't seem to realise how much length is required to get up a certain height with a reasonable gradient. As a guide I would say that anything steeper than 1 in 30 should definitely be avoided and try to keep to no more than 1 in 40. Also allow a little at each end for transition from gradient to level - you don't want a vertical dog-leg.

By the way, the original plan includes a storage loop on each of the two tracks going through the hidden section. With more space you could perhaps increase that number.

Robert

P.S. I don't particularly like that plan as it seems to have too many tracks in the amount of space but that's just a personal thing.
 

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Thanks Robert, would an option be to have a rising circle at the end of the fiddle yard to cope with some of the rise ? I can't think at this moment what it's called

I've just re-read your reply. I think you could be right re the hidden section, something to think about.

I won't be re-creating the whole plan ie the amount of track, it was the basis of the track I wanted with the 2 loops passing over and under. The rest will be modified as I go along.
 

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I could not make an 18" radius 00 spiral/ helix work on my 76" X 52" double bed size three level layout.

The layout plan shown is very full of track but so was my layout and mine could hold a 6 coach train and A3 so nothing wrong with plenty of track

However he plan has some nasty features,which I am sure would make it absolutely infuriating to operate as both main lines go through reverse curves through points at the station, quite unnecessarily in my view. Set track crossovers are just derailments waiting to happen. The bottom siding could easily be extended around the outside of the big curve ato merge into the present outer and the inner arranged to become a loop with a crossover simply by having tracks realigned on the diagonal so the main lines are in the middle, at the end of the diagonal changing on of the LH points for a RH at the crossover would throw the tracks one track width up the plan, it would need some but not much track cutting to achieve, which is why the planning software can't cope and produces something really ugly instead.

Set track is great, we take a box on holiday and create a layout around the holiday house (or even a premier Inn room! ) Thats what its for you can't pin flexi track to a premier inn carpet, well you can but you break the sleepers while you rip it up! and they don't like you ballasting the track. with PVA and granite ballast.

However set track curves stay curved and straights stay straight so for this size of layout I would use a mix of streamline points and set track track, 2ft streamline points for a crossover are shorter than set track and give a much better track spacing, you have to widen the track spacing on curves especially if you run MK3 s and Gresley Pacifics together but the 2ft streamline are so much less derailment prone than set track , 3ft is better and the short still 2 ft radius Y point a fantastic space saver in yards compared to set track.

What I do is use set track straights because the stay dead straight unlike flexi which likes to weave gently and curves, if you need non standard curves you can treat the curves like flexi track, cut the webs, ease them into larger radius, cut file snip the track ends level again, I ease 3d radius to 21" and 2nd to 3rd radius when I'm feeling mean and have a box full of 1st and 2nd radius, I also cut them up for short filler rails to suit pointwork or get the right angle or get the last bit of length form a siding etc.

Flexi is fine for big curves but gets dog leggy under 2ft radius, 3 ft when I do it, set track points are a derailment waiting to happen, I know, I made that mistake, the old Hornby diamond is diabolical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well, happy new year everyone, I've just noticed I've not updated since 22nd dec., I have been busy, honest.

I did buy the NCE Powercab, it is installed and I have 4 loco's set to run (I have another 3 diesels to convert to DCC) and another 4 steamers in the loft to come down yet. I've left most of my stock in the loft while i've been building so there is less in the workshop that could be damaged. I have built my incline and laid some track to check where it goes and that loco and coaches can make the climb, no probs so far. I have converted the back of all my electrofrog points soldering in the bracing ??? wires, I have printed a map of the fiddle yard and laminated it ready to make a mimic board. The bus is in and power supplied.

As we are going to model a sea scene along one wall, a 'bit'like Dawlish, I had a mock up in the station area with platforms, a road at the back, a sea wall and some sea/water scene we bought from Buffers and spacing looks good, not too cramped.

My wife has been putting together some Superquick low relief buildings that we have not been too impressed with, we do have some Metcalfe kits we haven't started yet but they look way better.

I bought a decoder with speaker from Peters spares for my class 73 and it sounds fantastic.

Hopefully this weekend I get to wire in my first electrofrog, point motor and switch and if all goes well with the one I'll do the other 5 for the fiddle yard and connect some more track up to the bus. That should keep me going for a while. Not bad I think as I work mon-fri 8-6.

I would load some pictures up but I'm a bit nervous of comments, I keep getting Harry Enfield's character in my head saying 'ere, you don't wanna do it like that'

Dave.
 

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QUOTE (Dave c @ 17 Feb 2015, 11:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...a sea scene along one wall, a 'bit'like Dawlish,
... 'ere, you don't wanna do it like that'...
Don't repeat one of Brunel's major errors, go inland.


Sounds like you are having fun and making progress, and that's what matters for a satisfying hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I am really enjoying it 34C, I have done a bit of soldering previously but not a lot and I was well pleased with doing the points, i'm learning about wiring, have spent ages on Brian Lamberts website and most weekends can't wait to get out there. I'm trying to stop myself buying a Steamer with sound, I don't have one at the moment and just want to see what they sound like. But I do have quite a few ideas about lights in buildings and street lights that light up, but by the same token i'm looking at still using switches for points, even Hornby point lever switches, just coz that's what I remember from my childhood, not many, just a few.

Dave.
 
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