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I bought an old LBSC E2 (R353) at a Toy Fair today. I was done because it won't run. I can't for the life of me see how to get the body off. There are very short screws on the base so its not these and there is no screw in the chimney. I imagine I have to prise it off, but where do I exert the pressue without breaking it? I'm sure someone knows
 

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QUOTE (Noggins Friend @ 13 Jan 2008, 22:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I bought an old LBSC E2 (R353) at a Toy Fair today. I was done because it won't run. I can't for the life of me see how to get the body off. There are very short screws on the base so its not these and there is no screw in the chimney. I imagine I have to prise it off, but where do I exert the pressue without breaking it? I'm sure someone knows

In the instructions from my SR version (R261) it says to remove the body, insert blade (of a small screwdriver) at front underside between body and chassis and lever body off. There is a diagram showing this levering being done just behind the fixing for the coupling.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it came off fine. My problem now is that the motor appears to be shorting. When I turn the power on the light on the controller comes on and then dims. If I lift the loco off the track one side, the light goes bright, but the loco odes not run. There is virtually no chance of taking it back so I would apprecaite some advice. Any thoughts. Thanks in advance.
 

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Sounds like you have a shorted turn on the armiture of the motor .The first thing i would try is a good clean and replace the brushies if they are worn but you may have to replace the armiture .
A quick tip for the next time you go to a model fair or show is to take a 9 volt battery with you as you can put it across the wheels and see if the motor runs
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (Teleman @ 14 Jan 2008, 00:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Sounds like you have a shorted turn on the armiture of the motor .The first thing i would try is a good clean and replace the brushies if they are worn but you may have to replace the armiture .
A quick tip for the next time you go to a model fair or show is to take a 9 volt battery with you as you can put it across the wheels and see if the motor runs


thanks. I will
 

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QUOTE (Noggins Friend @ 13 Jan 2008, 22:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Yes it came off fine. My problem now is that the motor appears to be shorting. When I turn the power on the light on the controller comes on and then dims. If I lift the loco off the track one side, the light goes bright, but the loco odes not run. There is virtually no chance of taking it back so I would apprecaite some advice. Any thoughts. Thanks in advance.

One of the common shorts occurs when the isolated wheels (ones with the brass pick-ups) short out on the chassis - look for damaged pick-ups or anything between the back of the wheel and the chassis side - usually a track pin! Verry common on locos that have 'Magnatraction', I can't remember if the E2 ever did.

David Y
 

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QUOTE (Noggins Friend @ 13 Jan 2008, 23:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>My problem now is that the motor appears to be shorting. There is virtually no chance of taking it back so I would apprecaite some advice.

As far as I know, the Hornby 0-6-0 tanks (except the Terrier) use the same chassis. The body clips onto it with lugs fore and aft. There are no screws.
If you have an early Hornby loco, such as the E2, you can use a current chassis. The new chassis have a smaller motor than the old, leaving an empty cab. They also have room for DCC. Buy a Hornby Railroad 0-6-0 and discard its body, using its chassis for your E2.
(I appreciate that this is a little late)
 

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I have 3 of these locos.

Having got the body off, remove the motor, by undoing the screw at the back of the motor (not the long which goes through the magnet but behind that).

Slide the motor out, there is a spring clip which holds the brushes in place about one inch long running from the magnet to the brushes. One side of this clip should have an isolating tube so that the metal of he clip does not touch one of the brushes (the one with the wire attached). The other side is exposed and touches the other brush. If its mot like this thn you found the problem.

If it is like this, apply power to each side of the motor. It should run fine. If not, disconnect the motor from the chassis and run again (note it should turn easily by hand). if it still not work, there are companies that will do a rewind. If that is too expensive, don,t through it away sell it on eBay as a dud, people will buy these to repair.

If the motor fine then:

Check the pick ups on the keeper plate are not touching the metal chassis bloc.

Likewise after 30 years, where the wire is soldered to the keeper plate OR where it feeds up under the motor, it tends to be squeezed. After 30 years, the squeeze causes the outer plastic to creep round the wire inside, causing it to tough the chassis block and short out.

Check the wheels are isolated on the pickup side (plastic black bush between wheel and axle).

As someone said before, you can fit a china made hornby railroad Jinty chassis. I did this with one of mine, fitted DCC concepts lamps and a smoke generator (after reprinting in early BR black). A temp solution until someone does a decent SR tank loco like the Bachmann Jinty someday...
 

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You mean like the Hornby M7 or Dapol Beattie WT? The M7 exceeds the standard of Bach's Jinty, one of the finest models from Hornby's range.

Though perhaps the announced E4 0-6-2T http://www.bachmann.co.uk/details.php?id=98&vis=2 would better fit the bill? With the O2 and USA tank also to come from Dapol alongside the admitedly somewhat dated Terrier from Hornby, SR small tank loco provision is suddenly looking up.
 

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QUOTE (34C @ 7 Apr 2013, 14:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You mean like the Hornby M7 or Dapol Beattie WT? The M7 exceeds the standard of Bach's Jinty, one of the finest models from Hornby's range.

Though perhaps the announced E4 0-6-2T http://www.bachmann.co.uk/details.php?id=98&vis=2 would better fit the bill? With the O2 and USA tank also to come from Dapol alongside the admitedly somewhat dated Terrier from Hornby, SR small tank loco provision is suddenly looking up.

Actually I am looking for a shunting and short tripper loco. E2, R1 and terriers fit the bill but are aging.

M7, E4, O2 are fine mid powered suburban tanks.

The Beattie well tank and forth coming USA tanks, while I,ll have one of each, are pricy solutions. The WT does not lend itself to easy maintenance. Maybe if Bachmann do a P class or R1....
 
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