hi,im currently expanding my sons 00 railway.the extension will require at least 2 hinged flaps for door access,etc but im not sure how to join the cut sections of track.obviously fishplates would not work.do people just butt the track ends together?will power still get through?unusually,one flap will have to hinge down,the other up.would soldering a short length of flexible wire to each track over the join work?any comments gratefully received,thanks,stephen thomas
help with hinged flaps
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There are two ways you could do it. The traditional lifting flap is shown on Brian Lamberts website. http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Hints%20&%20Tips.htm
You could use a swinging gate instead, as shown on Trains.com. http://www.trains.com/mrr/objects/pdf/e0407_bonus.pdf
You could use a swinging gate instead, as shown on Trains.com. http://www.trains.com/mrr/objects/pdf/e0407_bonus.pdf
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A short length of flexible two strand wire can be used to take the power across the hinge end of the flap. Instal it below the baseboard out of sight with the ends coming up through the board and soldered to the track.
I hope you already know that the actual hinge point must be at rail top height or even slightly higher. If you fit the hinge even slightly below the rail top position then the tracks will buckle.
By the way, try to cut the lifting flap as accurately as possible, and fit the track as carefully as possible, so that the actual gap is as small as possible. 1mm is fine, maybe even 2mm, but certainly no more or you will get derailing problems. Also it is best if the tracks cross the gap as nearly at right angles as possible.
I have installed a lifting flap on my garage layout and it works very well. I did have to do some careful trimming to get a very small gap between the tracks. When the flap is locked into position they almost touch.
Good luck with the project, Robert.
I hope you already know that the actual hinge point must be at rail top height or even slightly higher. If you fit the hinge even slightly below the rail top position then the tracks will buckle.
By the way, try to cut the lifting flap as accurately as possible, and fit the track as carefully as possible, so that the actual gap is as small as possible. 1mm is fine, maybe even 2mm, but certainly no more or you will get derailing problems. Also it is best if the tracks cross the gap as nearly at right angles as possible.
I have installed a lifting flap on my garage layout and it works very well. I did have to do some careful trimming to get a very small gap between the tracks. When the flap is locked into position they almost touch.
Good luck with the project, Robert.
Excellent sites I had the same problem as well . I have built a lifting hatch, the point re the hinges is very useful as I never realised they had to be lifted higher than the track!! Just in time as well !!
thanks Mick
thanks Mick
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