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I had a lot of grief with a lifting section with door hinges mounted on blocks set above the baseboard surface. They worked loose. Eventually I replaced them with car bonnet hinges. They are less than 1/2" wide looking down on them and screwed to the baseboard sides they are going nowhere. I have since realised wall paper table hinges would have been entirely adequate.
For electrics I have the power lead running across the hinge line at right angles to the track, it twists along its axis and more or less stays put as the flap lifts. It can be disconnected through a Aircraft multipin plug from something like a Gloster Meteror, but any multipin should do as it has not been disconnected for about 20 years. The power to the far side goes along the floor from one baseboard to the other in mains trunking.
To keep ballast in place is awkward. For the rail ends at the gap I use long brass screws screwed deep into the baseboard framing with the Peco Code 100 N/S rails soldered to them. The last sleeper is cut away but a dummy sleeper is strung between the screws with a dummy sleeper end. To ballast it make sure you can leave the flap down for several hours jam two pieces of plastic sheet in the join and apply ballast in the usual way. Hopefully when you do lift the flap the plastic will separate neatly leaving the ballast with a neat cut. the plastic will remain stuck to the ballast but you can either try to separate it or just trim round the edges to match the ballast profile.
 
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