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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having problems with the leading and trailing bogies on my Hornby 4P. Both tend to jump off the tracks every so often, leading to a nice little pile up...

For the front bogie, I propose to add a little bit of weight, just a thin piece of lead.
for the back bogie, I have no idea what to do about that, as there is no where to put some weight.

Any ideas or alternative suggestions ?
 

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I'd start by checking the back to back measurements on the offending axles are correct as hornby are getting a bad reputation for the measurements being too small on their modern stuff. However there is also a general rumble on the forum that the newer lead and trail bogies are really too light to stay on the rails. The trouble will be how do you add weight something so small?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah, someone mentioned the old "back-to-back" gauge yet again... but what is one, where do I get one, and how do I use one ?
 

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I bought my back to back gauges many years ago, so I don't know who sells them now. I would try the trade tool stands at model railway exhibitions.

However, as an alternative, a caliper gauge can be bought from Squires Model and Craft Tools at Exhibitions or by mail order, or from the tool stall at the local market for a few pounds.

The back to back measurement needs to be between 14.2 and 14.5 mm for Code 75 points.

Colombo
 

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For back-to-back gauges try the Double O gauge Association:
www.doubleogauge.com

Go to their 'Shop' page - they have a number of track and wheel gauges available, including the above.

Hope this helps,
John Webb
 

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I got one a few weeks ago from my local model shop but haven't used it yet. Basically mine is a piece of brass bar with a wedge shape cut out if it. After removing the offending wheels from the loco sheck and see if they fit into the cut out. If they are a reasonable fit then all is well, if they won't fit then you will have to open them out a bit (usually straight forward enough) by sliding one of the wheels along the axle.
Just fished mine out of the loft and it is made by C+L finescale and cost the princely sum of £4.80 which seems a lot for what it is.
They have a website if you can't find a shop with one....
www.finescale.org.uk
 

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For the rear pony truck you could try a small length of springy brass wire mounted in a small hole in the rear of the chassis block and bearing on the axle to stop the wheels jumping off the track. A similar method could be used on the front bogie but bearing on the central pivot and if set up correctly will also give some side control but it does need to be very light.

regards

mike g
 

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I was thinking along the spring loading lines for my LNER pacifics which are very lightweight on the front bogies. Its just a question of how they attach and do I fancy risking damaging the flimsy body detailing to rectify it? I don't fancy trial and error as there is too much faffing about removing and replacing the body.
Could be one for when i pluck up courage and fit a decoder.
 
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