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I have a Hornby Castle "Wellington R3105. A very recent model but a non runner. The crankpin on the leading drivers foul the crosshead on a R2 curve and jams. The result is the slide bars disconnect from the cylinders and chaos reigns



It fouls by a fraction of a millimetre but it is enough to jam the motion. With this model Castle the slide bars are just pressed into the cylinder and can come loose easily. I am tempted to glue them in but I dont think that will solve the problem. It is not a good design. I cant send it back as I have added a chip, sound and a stay alive (Youchoos) and had to modify the tender to get it in

Question- Can I put spacer washers between the driving wheel and the frame to lessen the lateral travel of the driving wheel. How much would that effect its ability to handle a R2 curve
(This would be a major fix to remove a wheel from the axle and re-stablish quartering. Not sure it is worth it!

Any one had experience with this castle
 

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In depth idiot
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Tried to reply this morning, but was derailed because the s/w was updating!

I have an early production of this model, and clearances are very tight between the rear of the connecting rods and the leading crankpins. This is an aspect I always check first before running any outside cylinder loco. What was also noticeable was how little sideplay there was on the leading and trailing coupled wheels, I estimated it at 0.3mm, and really you don't want tighter than that, so I wouldn't suggest reducing that.

My thought is that the loose slide bars may be the trouble, because they will waggle while running, and I would want to tack them in place with a dab of cyano to see if that eliminates the problem.

What I have done on a couple of other locos with this trouble in the past, is dome the leading crankpin heads so that they will not snag a correcting rod. You have to leave enough of the hex head form to engage the nut driver of course. I had to grind about half a millimetre off the lead in taper of the nut driver, so that it would engage the reduced depth of the remaining hex head to enable the screw to be fully snugged down.

Now since then I have had further thoughts, having seen some dimensional variation in the crankpin bolts, in both head depth and unthreaded shank depth. I would suggest measurement of your catching crankpin head thickness, and sampling a few others to see if you have something slimmer which could be exchanged, the thicker one going where there is no snaggong risk.

BTW, wheelsets retained by a keeper plate never need to be pulled off the axle to control sideplay. Make washers from phosphor bronze, cut, and spring on to the axle.
 

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I had similar issues with the Hornby Railroad County which just fell apart so cheaply made, I guess someone had a brainwave in Margate and decided upon this system (the County also had a self destruct draw bar so I got shut of it) I guess you can remove the enhancements and use them on something else, one excellent model is the Hornby Grange and the Bachmann Hall is another good 'un I have no experience with Hornby King.
As above 438 mm radius of R2 is getting tight for such a model but Hornby have to make it go round as this is the standard set track point radius so constrains them, the other possibility is to use streamline Peco track as this has options of a larger radius and would look better anyway I think the medium radius is the SL95 and this would probably solve your clearance issue, this is also available as an electrofrog which is a good idea to move towards.
 
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