With DCC its not hard by using one of the function wires to power them.
Choice is yours as to using bulbs or Leds. My personal preference would be leds.
John
Choice is yours as to using bulbs or Leds. My personal preference would be leds.
John
hornby class 59 lights
hi everyone,
iam planning on getting a new dcc ready class 59. to put my National power body on. with a dcc ready loco is it still poss to add lights?. if so could someone give me some hints on how to do it?.
thanks everyone
francesco
![]()
iam planning on getting a new dcc ready class 59. to put my National power body on. with a dcc ready loco is it still poss to add lights?. if so could someone give me some hints on how to do it?.
thanks everyone
francesco
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
2
Hi Pepe007/ eddscott,
Welcome to the forum,
Wiring lights is not difficult in locos,a site for good general advice on wiring up LED's .......................
http://www.electricnose.co.uk/general/dcc02.html
Here an N gauge installation using a four function wired decoder the green wire was taped down not being used after the picture was taken.
![]()
use LED's though bulbs give off heat over time possibly melting bodies.
Keep the light directional and no overspill by putting heatshrink over the LED only giving off light to headlights and not the cab interior, the loco above has had this done.
![]()
Welcome to the forum,
Wiring lights is not difficult in locos,a site for good general advice on wiring up LED's .......................
http://www.electricnose.co.uk/general/dcc02.html
Here an N gauge installation using a four function wired decoder the green wire was taped down not being used after the picture was taken.
use LED's though bulbs give off heat over time possibly melting bodies.
Keep the light directional and no overspill by putting heatshrink over the LED only giving off light to headlights and not the cab interior, the loco above has had this done.
QUOTE (pepe007 @ 25 Sep 2008, 18:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hi everyone,
iam planning on getting a new dcc ready class 59. to put my National power body on. with a dcc ready loco is it still poss to add lights?. if so could someone give me some hints on how to do it?.
thanks everyone
francesco
![]()
***Simple instructions to add lights:
The "blue-white" look of standard white LEDs available generally at Maplin etc looks horrible in a loco.
Use "Prototype white" LEDs from, for example, Bromsgrove models. 3mm would be right for a simple install in most OO scale.
you need a 1k resistor in series with each LED, these are provided with the LEDs from Bromsgrove.
Nicks advice to add shrink tube is good, but make sure it doesn't stop the LED entering any headlight hole in the body. Not too much heat on the LED body either - they don't like it!
White wire = front light negative
Yellow wire = rear light negative
Blue wire = common positive for all lights
Front lights:
White wire to the negative lead of the front LED (this is the shorter LED lead)
Blue wire has the resistor in series with it. The Blue wire goes to the long positive leg of the LED
Rear Lights:
Yellow wire to the negative lead of the rear LED (this is the shorter LED lead)
Blue wire has the resistor in series with it. The Blue wire goes to the long positive leg of the LED
Switch lights on and off with finction ZERO (Or "lights" button on the controller - this is also function zero)
They are set up as auto reversing by dfault when you get the decoder - no need to adjust any CVs
regards
Richard
iam planning on getting a new dcc ready class 59. to put my National power body on. with a dcc ready loco is it still poss to add lights?. if so could someone give me some hints on how to do it?.
thanks everyone
francesco
***Simple instructions to add lights:
The "blue-white" look of standard white LEDs available generally at Maplin etc looks horrible in a loco.
Use "Prototype white" LEDs from, for example, Bromsgrove models. 3mm would be right for a simple install in most OO scale.
you need a 1k resistor in series with each LED, these are provided with the LEDs from Bromsgrove.
Nicks advice to add shrink tube is good, but make sure it doesn't stop the LED entering any headlight hole in the body. Not too much heat on the LED body either - they don't like it!
White wire = front light negative
Yellow wire = rear light negative
Blue wire = common positive for all lights
Front lights:
White wire to the negative lead of the front LED (this is the shorter LED lead)
Blue wire has the resistor in series with it. The Blue wire goes to the long positive leg of the LED
Rear Lights:
Yellow wire to the negative lead of the rear LED (this is the shorter LED lead)
Blue wire has the resistor in series with it. The Blue wire goes to the long positive leg of the LED
Switch lights on and off with finction ZERO (Or "lights" button on the controller - this is also function zero)
They are set up as auto reversing by dfault when you get the decoder - no need to adjust any CVs
regards
Richard
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
