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DT
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Bachmann today released the following info:QUOTE Ivatt 2MT 'Mickey Mouse' tender draw bar instructions

Bachmann Europe PLC today issued revised instructions for the removal of the long draw bar between tender and locomotive and replacing it with the replacement provided in the locomotive accessory pack.

Body removal

Remove centre screw under the front pony truck. Remove second screw from read of cab, situated underneath the simulated brake actuator.

Tender draw bar removal

Unscrew first screw just in front of rear of the cab and remove. Half unscrew rear baseplate screw just in front of simulated brake actuator. Lift the base plate 1/2mm which will enable you to withdraw the draw bar from the locomotive. Gently lift the draw bar in an upwards movement to clear the tender location drawbar pin.
 

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Really helpful. It's improved the look of my model. Now I've just got to fit some better wiring between the loco and tender to replace the rather obvious stuff Bachmann's provided! Still, good idea to put the decoder in the tender, execution could have been better. And why I'm at it, why no tender pick ups? Hornby manage it and it does improve things.
 

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QUOTE (dwilson9 @ 27 Jul 2007, 11:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Really helpful. It's improved the look of my model. Now I've just got to fit some better wiring between the loco and tender to replace the rather obvious stuff Bachmann's provided!

Unlike the press release photographs of the production models, mine has a bit of heatshrink tubing slipped over each pair of wires. I think that's an acceptable form of camouflage, but a bit more attention to detail should have been due. The heatshrink is too short and snipped off at quite an angle. Maybe too much to ask??

QUOTE (dwilson9 @ 27 Jul 2007, 11:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Still, good idea to put the decoder in the tender, execution could have been better. And why I'm at it, why no tender pick ups? Hornby manage it and it does improve things.

Agree - as on the Q1, which sits in the same price band. Wouldn't have been that difficult either, given that they have had to run wiring from the tender to the loco for the decoder.

Overall, it's a nice loco though.

Walter
 

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Does anyone know if it can cope with second radius curves with the shorter bar in? I want to buy one, as I don't go down to first radius, but there is no point if it needs long curves only....
 

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Can that unsightly cabling be removed completely if you are not going to run dcc on it? Do they power the motor via normal pick-up?
 

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QUOTE (Fireline @ 9 Aug 2007, 16:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can that unsightly cabling be removed completely if you are not going to run dcc on it? Do they power the motor via normal pick-up?
Both the pick ups and the motor are in the loco, therefore all you need to to do is solder in direct connections between them. It should be possible to reroute the wiring fairly straightforwardly with the body off, since there must be wire paths to the rear underside. If I was doing this I would look to see if the wires from the pick ups are long enough to reach the motor terminals directly, as the likely simplest way of accomplishing this job. Alternatively, before doing that it might be worth remembering that water and vacuum brake hose connections between loco and tender were necessary on the real thing, and seeing if the wires can be dressed and painted to represent these connections?
 
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