I've got a 19mm thick pine shelf....

I doubt at 19mm (3/4") thick itll need bracing. Esp if you intend to use it as a shelf layout!

the only problems I've ever encountered using a [thickish] plank is, if supported in the usual way , ie brackets off a shelving system or wall ...then there can be a tendency towards droopiness over time.

whether this is down to heat, or simply, poor quality raw materials is not clear.......maybe it also depends on hte amount of weight the self continuously has to bear?

so maybe some additional support may be advisable? [3 brackets instead of two?]

The inherant problem with most DIY timber is that it has not been properly seasoned.

I would suggest that, before you fix anything to it, you place it flat on the floor of the room it will be used in. If it starts to curl up just turn it over and it should straighten itself out. Keep doing this until you get no further movement and then seal it all over with a good quality varnish or oil based paint.

I've built my o gauge small layout on an old piece of antique cabinet and now its been indoors for a few months it stinks like an old bookshop! I think its got worse since having paint and glue stuck to it.

QUOTE I would suggest that, before you fix anything to it, you place it flat on the floor of the room it will be used in. If it starts to curl up just turn it over and it should straighten itself out. Keep doing this until you get no further movement and then seal it all over with a good quality varnish or oil based paint.

lordy, no wonder I can't get any modelling done........having to turn the baseboard over and over.......and over.......nope...still not straight...turn it over again......

Some bracing wont hurt, I would deifnetly add some.

With 19mm solid pine, once it has dried out and stabilised, no bracing will be necessary. In any case bracing would need to be at least 3" x 1" to be strong enough to counter any possible distortion of the pine shelf. It would also have to be dried and stabilised before use as otherwise it might, itself, cause the shelf to twist.

***Its a pretty strong shelf at 19mm ....But it won't be dry and stabilised as soon as scenery is added with water based materials .... these take time to dry - enough that some will seep into an unsealed pine board expecially if its pine from a warmer climate with larger dellular structure... quite possible with such stuff. .... nor will is be stable if placed in the sunat any stage. If iehter happens on only one side of the board, it will move a little, perhaps enough to cause problems.

So... If the layout is to have a lot of time spent on it its better for it to be properly prepared...

If no bracing is to be used, then at least seal it with a coat of varnish or paint all over first. This will help a lot.

Optionally, I would use a simple frame of 20 x 40 or similar, leaving any cross bracing until the position of points is done. Make the braces at about 16", which means two intermediate braces plus one each end for a total of 4.

Better safe than sorry.

Richard

I used a B+Q pine shelf to build my 009 little layout board i did brace it with 2x1 timber too and that hasnt warped at all - also it has allowed me to be able to add a thin hardboard backboard. I also brought a little corner quater circle shelf and made a push in fiddle yard that just goes on the end. Is probably the best looking display board i have ever made.................................... Will post some piccys later tonight .............................. i it helps you or anyone else.

Nikki

why not ripsaw the shelf into battens, make a frame, and top off with ply or MDFFF?

or create an open fame board?

I obtained, FOC....4 of those metal bookshelf units..all very cheaply made, with shelves secured to legs with plastic pegs.....considered using for 'stacking' of several different small shelf{!} layourts......I wondered about inverting the shelves [the ''trays'' ].....and cutting some 25mm builders insulation I happen to have found [the stuff covered in foil....quite dense foam, it is].......[will they call me ''skippy??''] to fit inside the inverted 'trays'......which then get re-instated on the legs of the unit.....obviously upside-down to original......with the foam as the top surface.........I wonder.........

QUOTE (alastairq @ 15 Feb 2009, 19:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>.and cutting some 25mm builders insulation I happen to have found [the stuff covered in foil....quite dense foam, it is].......[will they call me ''skippy??'']

Nowt wrong with a bit of "skip diving" - quite often the builders are glad to "lose" such items!

Regards

you mean......you DON'T use 6 inch nails???????

QUOTE (Manfred Ebinger @ 18 Feb 2009, 08:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ah, the ultimate 1024 amp slow blow fuse.

That's the one - (or would that be more likely "no blow" ?)

QUOTE (alastairq @ 17 Feb 2009, 20:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>you mean......you DON'T use 6 inch nails???????

No - only on the really delicate work, it's coach bolts for everything else.

Regards

I always found coachbolts useful for securing the cab to a steam loco...one can pass it right through the boiler, with a nice polished wing nut on the smokebox door?