Johns 7mm Workbench

I thought I'd start a topic since I haven't done so for quite some time. A few months ago I had a "road to Damascus" moment while perusing Dapols upcoming offerings. I noticed the Class 08 and after a bit of a think I sat up with a jolt when I realised that the loco is actually affordable. My conventional wisdom until that time was that 7mm model prices are beyond me. I did some more research and found that wagon kits and RTR are also reasonable, particularly for what you are getting. These models are not just scaled up 4mm models they feature detail that can only be dreamed of in 4mm.

So, I took the plunge and put my 4mm collection up for sale, from which I have taken in a considerable sum - enough to fund my 7mm purchases.

I'll share some of my model experiences here, after all we can't let Rob monopolise the section now can we.

First, we'll start with some basic models, Private Owner wagons. I have three, one from Dapol, a Parkside kit and finally a Lionheart RTR model. Of the three, the Lionheart is the best.

This is the Dapol RTR wagon. I wasn't terribly impressed with what was below the solebars, brakes miles away from the wheels and sloppy wheels, so I upgraded the wagon with RCH brakes and sprung axleguards using Bill Bedford kits. As far as I can tell the body is good, although I daresay purists will be able to find fault.



Next, a wagon built from a Parkside kit. This would be a good starter since it is relatively straightforward to assemble and comes with wheels, bearings, couplings and sprung buffers. Checking my archive I realised I don't have a picture of the pristine completed wagon:



Note that I made a end door hinge from a piece of brass tube and scrap strip.

Finally, a Lionheart RTR wagon:



Really excellent, free running and a die cast underframe so it has weight.

Of course, being me, I can't leave things like. The era I've chosen is early 60s so PO wagons would be in a pretty decrepit state by then. I've weathered them thus:







The process is a lengthy one and quite exhausting.

First, I used a fiberglass pen to fade the lettering and body colour. Next I masked the bodies and sprayed black patches for the number, bottom door indicator and tare. For the Parkside Charlesworth wagon this was a mistake because, to my horror, when I removed the masking tape, much of the lettering and paint came with it - a poor do.

I used aged concrete for the natural wood planks.

If anyone s moved to take this job on, get yourself some black patch transfers - far easier.

In preparation for transfers, I sprayed a coat of gloss varnish on the bodies.

Next I applied P numbers, vee and Tare using Fox transfers.

The white stripe denoting end door was very difficult and I eventually gave up trying to get the transfer to work. I painted it instead which involved a massive amount of masking tape. I did have some success with a paint pen, but mine is old and blobby.

After all this was dry, I sprayed on some flat varnish.

The fun stuff next. Using my airbrush I sprayed on a light coat of dirt. I covered the underneath and solebars and a short way up the body. This was followed by a light coat of black in the same place. This really does tend to bring out detail.

With the paint dry, I moved on to powders.

I started with rust, coating the metal parts, W irons, springs, iron fittings on solebar, buffers, strapping and rubbing it down with an old brush (don't use a good one, this really wrecks brushes). Next I applied burnt umber powder (dirt) to tone down the rust. Finally I used black powder to bring everything together.

I used a fiber pen to bring out bare metal on the buffer heads. I used a silver pencil to highlight the door banger end which would have been bare metal.

I didn't neglect the interior. I started by using my airbrush to spray aged concrete on the bottom and sides. I then used pretty much the same procedure as described above to try to represent a natural wood but abused interior.

More to come.

John