Doug,
I have fitted a no.307 uncoupler near the end of my main platform to allow me to change locos on through trains in the hands-free mode. The two plates look like check rails and are hardly noticeable. In fact you can't see them from the viewing side of the layout as the platform masks them.
Before carving my baseboard, I set up a test rig simulating my curved platform, using the same baseboard material, track and ballasting. I found that you do need to adjust the height of the magnetised plates to get the 307 uncoupler to work.This is done by adding packing pieces under the baseboard.
I have to stop the train with the tender coupling over the uncoupler and set back the loco about 5mm to uncouple. The loco can then draw forward and depart to the depot. I have another loco waiting in a siding which then backs on and couples up. If I do it right, the carriages and their passengers are not disturbed by the movement.
My station has a through road, and occasionally I want to fail the loco on through express goods trains and change the loco there, so I shall be fitting a second electro magnetic uncoupler soon.
For the rest of my shunting moves I use the no. 321 magnet that fits between the tracks. I cut out the sleepers retrospectively and glue in the magnet with packing to get them at the right height. They can be disguised as foot crossings. I can now shunt both my carriage sidings and platforms hands free.
The coaling stage siding is also equipped with a 321 uncoupling magnet which is installed just before the point leading to the the siding where I keep the full and empty trucks in rakes of four with Kadees at the ends and 3 links within the rakes. I push the wagons up the ramp with a tank engine: the Kadee on the front of the loco stays in its uncoupled mode even as the loco pushes them through the two fairly abrupt transitions from level track to 1 in 8.
Colombo
I have fitted a no.307 uncoupler near the end of my main platform to allow me to change locos on through trains in the hands-free mode. The two plates look like check rails and are hardly noticeable. In fact you can't see them from the viewing side of the layout as the platform masks them.
Before carving my baseboard, I set up a test rig simulating my curved platform, using the same baseboard material, track and ballasting. I found that you do need to adjust the height of the magnetised plates to get the 307 uncoupler to work.This is done by adding packing pieces under the baseboard.
I have to stop the train with the tender coupling over the uncoupler and set back the loco about 5mm to uncouple. The loco can then draw forward and depart to the depot. I have another loco waiting in a siding which then backs on and couples up. If I do it right, the carriages and their passengers are not disturbed by the movement.
My station has a through road, and occasionally I want to fail the loco on through express goods trains and change the loco there, so I shall be fitting a second electro magnetic uncoupler soon.
For the rest of my shunting moves I use the no. 321 magnet that fits between the tracks. I cut out the sleepers retrospectively and glue in the magnet with packing to get them at the right height. They can be disguised as foot crossings. I can now shunt both my carriage sidings and platforms hands free.
The coaling stage siding is also equipped with a 321 uncoupling magnet which is installed just before the point leading to the the siding where I keep the full and empty trucks in rakes of four with Kadees at the ends and 3 links within the rakes. I push the wagons up the ramp with a tank engine: the Kadee on the front of the loco stays in its uncoupled mode even as the loco pushes them through the two fairly abrupt transitions from level track to 1 in 8.
Colombo
