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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where to begin?

Well having finished my little N-gauge layout which sits on top of the OO layout, I was going to put a OO warehouse shunting layout down the opposite wall, just an end to end, that way I could have all the different operating elements in 3 layouts.

The worst thing I could have done was look at photos of some of the O-gauge layouts....wow simply stunning...and very expensive!

Then I saw an advert for O-16.5mm Narrow gauge.
I didn't have a clue what all that was about so started to research it a little, what a perfect compromise, O-gauge scenery with narrow gauge engines running on 16.5mm track.
This was quite appealing as on our various excursions this year I've actually been on a few narrow gauge railways; Bure Valley, Bala lake and Talyllyn.

Now I had no idea what size these locos would be, saw photos of some but there was no other locos at a different gauge near to compare to. Having searched around I realised that the locos would have to be kit built, saw the Peco offerings and although nice, quite expensive too.
Most of the other kits I saw were the brass etched kits, which seem a little daunting to me, so tried to find something else.
I actually called Just trains about the Peco offereings when he mentioned to me about Smallbrook studios, who manufacture 7mm NG resin body kits, which fit onto the Hornby chassis from 'Smokey Joe' , 'Toby the tram' 'Bill/Ben' or the GWR 0-4-0T type chassis.
Now I tried to find them......very difficult there isn't a website and I just couldn't find any more information than the little adverts in the back of Railway Modeller.
Searching about found this shop in Cornwall who actually stocked the Smallbrook studio kits!!

Mevagissey Model Railway

This shows a little bit of the kits, so took a chance and ordered two.

1x Diesel 'Harlech Castle' (uses 'Toby the tram' chassis)
1x 'EROS' This actually is a body modification on 'Bill/Ben' loco.

Managed to win a 'Toby the tram' and a 'Bill' off Ebay.

Let the fun begin!

Bill all nice, just been scrubbed clean a bit, ready for the kill!!





The kit arrived and I was somewhat taken aback!
Ok I've never done anything like this before but when I saw this was a little shocked!



Doesn't look much, there again though I've never seen a resin kit so didn't really know what to expect.



All opened up not too many bits which is good news in a way!



Second page of instructions, the first is all writing, but straight forward, it's just easier to read it a few times while going through all the individual items.

Followed the instructions, to remove the body from the chassis all quite straight forward, now the best part.....the modification:-

For those of you, easily offended do not look at the following photos extreme carnage on BILL!





Thats the body modified, Cab sawn off, Bill's "face off", all the stacks sawn off along with the buffers.
The new buffer blocks have been fitted.





The rest of the parts now fitted, just the back of the cab to fit, which I will do once all of the cab detail has been fitted and painted, otherwise wont be able to get in to do it!!

More to follow!

Ian
 

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Administrator
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QUOTE More to follow!
Fascinating. I wait in eager anticipation.

David
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh ok!

Just got these done!!
Wasn't going to post until I'd got the touch-up out, just to touch the over spray up and bits that I'd missed due to the masking tape!







This shows the front box still needs painting, the brass hand rails to put on, whistle, steam vents, smokebox door dart to fit, and the front buffer blocks and beam to repaint! not bad though only took 2 days to do all of this.

For my first ever attempt at something like this I'm really pleased, the next one is a full diesel body kit which should look like this when finished, there is alot to this one!:-

Harlech Castle

Will post some more pics when I get 'EROS' finished.

Ian
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A few more for you.

Just a little bit of paint work touch up to do and detailing, then it should be all done.







Yes I did paint the coupling rods, back ones black front red. Thought it would look better than being very shiney!

Overall I'm really pleased with the result, for not really that much time, it's been well worth it and I've learnt alot as well!
Will have to see how the next one goes.

Won Bill including delivery for £18 the kit was also £18 plus time and paints.
Some of the paint I already had, I've actually used Plasti-Kote super, grey primer, matt black and Hunter green in satin finish.
The red was a little 20ml pot made by Polyvine, acrylic enamel scarlet.
The paints were expensive but I have enough to do about 10 locos.....as long as they are all hunter green!!
Once I've completed everything I will give it a coat of clear acrylic to give it extra protection, it also wont effect the sheen on the finished model like a varnish can do.

So total of about £50, I don't think that is too bad for the end result, if using different paints that would be cheaper, but then like I say, I have enough paint left to do lots more models.

Ian
 

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That's very nice; I like it


I'm not sure that I can awake as long as you


David
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
David,

I didn't realise what time it was!!

Just so that you can see a comparison between a Bachmann OO gauge 0-6-0 5700 Pannier Tank!
I've done this, beacuse thats what I wanted to see, to give me an idea of sizes!
Couldn't find any comparison shots anywhere!





Ian
 

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Interesting photos. In the first the difference doesn't look much. Then you see the second and boy what a change!

I can see the attractions of O scale but I'd be looking for more space to install stuff like sound decoders and decent size speakers. I suspect you don't get much extra space in these little fellers?

David
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
David,

Yes, about the comparisons! Just goes to show that Bill/Ben are very out of scale already, but for the target market it's not a problem.
Really does show a difference with that head on shot!

Your right no more extra room! Real shame, I think there is enough room to get a decoder in, but thats about it!
Plenty of room in the cab though......it's now time to try and disguise a speaker as a driver


Just working out some sort of layout now so I have somewhere to put it!

Ian
 

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Chief mouser
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Hi Ian,

I rather like that little beastie. If you are thinking along the O-16.5 line then you may wish to consider the Fleischmann Magic train range. They do two locos, an 0-4-0T and an 0-4-0 diesel, in addition they also make an assortment of wagons and coaches which you may find of use.

Regards
 

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Administrator
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QUOTE you may wish to consider the Fleischmann Magic train range

Modellbahn Kramm have a limited amount of this stuff on special offer at the moment. Don't expect eBay prices though!

David
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the comments.

I will shortly have the illustrated brochure, which I have asked if I can scan and post it here, if ok I will put it in it's own post for other members to view(or is this classed as advertising and so I can't do it?)
It's easy enough to get one, just send an SSAE to smallbrooks studios, he will then send them back to you, just thought it maybe quicker.

I've looked at the magic train and to be honest I just don't think it looks right....just me I guess.

Hopefully going to model a small section of the Talyllyn railway, I know the Harlech Castle doesn't belong but what the hell!

When I get started will start a new thread with photos.

Just need to sort out what couplers to use on the O-16.5mm layout now.
I keep being told Kadees, but have no idea what size, type or anything on how to fit them into a Hornby chassis!!
Looking at the Kadee web site seems to confuse me even more, with all the different types!

Ian
 

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QUOTE but have no idea what size, type or anything on how to fit them into a Hornby chassis!!
Since the stock is based on HO / OO models, I would be inclined to go for HO sized couplings.

David
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
David,

Thanks for that.

Now just need to sort out what size, long short . draft gearbox????

I have no idea what it's all about.


From what I've read, most seem to use #5 so I guess that should be ok, have no idea on adapting it to fit this chassis though!

Latest pic with smokebox door hinges painted and portholes touched in, just needs a coat of clear acrylic then all done...apart from the couplings!



Ian
 

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I use 30 series myself they are smaller than #5s so suitable for small spaces. There's a couple of photos in my blog entry - "Fowler deeds"

There have been quite a few threads on Kadees over the last year or two. A search should find them.

David
 

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Ian Wigglesworth
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750 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for that very useful!!

This is the service sheet fro Bill which shows how the front and rear couplers clip in on the chassis.

http://static.hornby.com/files/ss-265-238.pdf

The slot on the front is where the original coupling should slide into and clip in to the chassis, this is almost the same set up at the back.

Not a lot of room!!

Ian
 

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QUOTE This is the service sheet fro Bill which shows how the front and rear couplers clip in on the chassis.

That's the same kind of arrangement as on the Stanier tender which comes with the new Scot. I haven't worked out how to do that yet. MMAD's suggestion for the Stanier is to use a self tapper through a draft box (I would guess a no 5) because I think that's his favourite. The difficult bit will be getting the height right. Kadees must be mounted "just so" from the rails or they don't work. IIRC the mounting height for the Hornby with this arrangement is too low so an "offset" model will be required. The trouble with this is that if you're not into Kadees yet, you need to invest a reasonable amount in a range of couplings to get the different height variants for trial and error purposes.

You seem a pretty capable chap when it comes to mechanical things, so you might find it easier to buy a packet of couplers "on spec" and get to work with a Dremel and plasticard until it all works. Don't forget to buy the height gauge; it's indispensible.

David
 
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