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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,
Would anyone here be interesting in seeing how my Prussian layout is proceeding?
I know I've started a few layout threads over the years, this time I have something tangible!
Cheers,
John.
 

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What do I put here!?!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello Everyone,
Thanks so much for the replies, I really appreciate it. Some other forums just don't appreciate anything that's not British!
Just to get going, I'll post what I've pretty much posted elsewhere if that's okay.
I am a H0 scale modeller living in North Western England, halfway between Liverpool & Manchester but I am not really interested in football!
I am very passionate about German railways though, I love them all! I have a diverse collection of H0 equipment from Era I through to Era VI but lately I have come to love the old Prussian railways most of all.
For this reason I have started to construct a suitable Era I layout in my spare box room. I have built and arranged four boards in an "L" shape of approximately 2.70m x 2.15m, three boards will be scenic, the forth board is a traverser.
I have been working on a track plan and so far have come up with this (below)

Prussian H0 Quarry MetricB2 by Allegheny1633, on Flickr

I hope it at least looks "Germanic" if not exactly "Prussian". I have had some assistance from a German forum in ensuring that it does follow some aspects of Prussian design.Where in Prussia? I have no idea, hence the name "Irgwendo" which in German means "Somewhere"!
Why Prussia? Well, I originally followed the Bavarian railways for a long time but found that in DB days, I liked the look of the former Prussian machines better, they have become some of my favourite steam locomotives. A couple of years ago, a friend sold me a Brawa G 5.4 with DCC sound for only £100 and I loved it so much, I couldn't stop and now have several locos and have been slowly buiding up my fleet of Passenger and freight cars.

Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi All,
Here are some pictures I took during baseboard construction so I thought I'd post them, hopefully they may be a useful record of how I did it.


This is the timber for the final two boards, all cut ready for assembly.


I clamped a pre-drilled 'noggin' of timber to the ends of the main frame as a drilling template. Note the sacrificial piece of timber that I place under the work, this saves the work-piece some 'splitting' and also saves the workbench/table.


Once 3.5mm clearance holes were drilled, use countersink in electric screwdriver for fast easy countersinking.


Using the work table to line up side and end frames, then clamping securely into position.




Drilling pilot hole then carefully driving screws home - DO NOT overtighten as the wood will definitely split.
This will form an "L", take another side and end & repeat then join both "L"s together now we have a rectangular open box.


Mounting the central frame piece. Similar procedure to drilling end holes only now I go from pencil lines on my 'noggin!


The completed open box.
Part 2 coming shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Part 2;

Use tape measure corner to corner as squareness check, I allow up to about 1/8th inch (3mm) here as we're not doing cabinet making and it's soft wood too.





The open box can now be placed on the board top material and the outline of the frame marked out, then you need the centreline for drilling. This is necessary due to the 12mm thickness of the framing, you really need those screws to go in central & square on.
Again note the sacrificial ply underneath, my work table still got a few holes in it.


Countersink those holes again.


Checking everything is flat.


Two almost completed boards.





Now, those EMGS/C&L type board joiners won't work in such thin timber so taking some slim offcuts, screw & glue them into place.

What I didn't photograph was, once all the metal furniture was added and the boards tested for fit, I then glued in all those little quarter round pieces seen in the first image of post #13. Not much to see, I use the old carpenters method of smearing glue over the mating faces then 'rubbing' the gluing piece closely into position so the glue gets into the grain, then 'sticks' into position. Needless to say, the glue hasn't set yet but it is enough to hold itself in position until it does set properly.
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
QUOTE (reddo @ 21 May 2016, 15:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Looks very solid. Unless it is already installed, you may want to drill some holes in the cross-braces so you can pass wires through, as it may be easier than doing it from below.
QUOTE (Babz @ 22 May 2016, 11:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>John The Baseboards look very solid Indeed I have posted a couple of Pics to show you the Slots we made in the 2 x 1 for wires to come out for the Buss Bar/ Cable Even in the Frame there are slots for wires to follow through. Babs
Many thanks Reddo & Babs,
Yes! That's something I have forgotten about! I think I can get away with it as I have a right angle drill attachment and only need to allow a limited number of wires to pass as I'm purely DCC. I will need more than two though anyway!!! I do wish I'd thought about it beforehand.
Babs,
Those 'slots' of yours are really neat and must compromise the strength of the frames far less than the usual larger holes would.

QUOTE (RFS @ 21 May 2016, 17:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Not wishing to sound pedantic, but the German for "somewhere" is "irgendwo". Apologies if your rendering of it is deliberate!
Thanks RFS! Must be my dyslexia slipping in I'm afraid! Oh blast! I shall have to report the initial post to get admin to change it, never mind.

QUOTE (Adrian Ross @ 21 May 2016, 22:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hello,
Try modelling 3-rail German in Australia. Europe doesn't exist at all, for most MRR folk here.

Any Prussian loco has a premium attached. I ended up getting the DRG 5.4, simply because it was cheaper. It's a nice model, either way.
If you don't have any of the Brawa 3-axle Prussian coaches, you're missing out. They're pretty special.
Marklin turned out a three-pack of Prussian 3-axle paired coaches that were quite nice also. I don't think these came as a Trix release, so you'll need to swap wheel-sets if go down that path.
Thanks for the detailed build photos.
Thanks Adrian,
I didn't know that, the RoG forum seems to have plenty of Aussies on board! But I know Australia is such a huge place, just a handful of folk will be scattered very far and wide - my sympathies! I once lived in S-W France and railway modellers of any kind were very rare there too.

Also, I didn't know that any Prussian locos have a premium attached. Presumably because of the ornate livery and the more limited market?
I'm certainly very grateful that the Germans feel there is a market for era I or "pre group" as we would call it.
I've seen the Brawa Prussian coaches and they sure are sweet! I simply cannot afford them though but I'm very happy with the Roco/Fleischmann versions, the latest issue is certainly beautifully painted.

Thanks all, for looking in,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Having got the baseboards built, it was time to see how things look with physical track and structures placed in position.

P1160977 by Allegheny1633, on Flickr
The turntable and shed area, this is quite a focal point of the layout as a lot of the movents will be focussed on the table. Any run round move, loco servicing or turning, all uses this!

The trackplan originally called for four tracks through the station area but it would have looked cramped so I settled on three.
P1160978 by Allegheny1633, on Flickr

Two sidings for the quarry area looks fine.
P1160981 by Allegheny1633, on Flickr

A chance for a nice wooded hillside I think?
P1160983 by Allegheny1633, on Flickr

I'm not too keen on how close I have to bring the track leading to the traverser, to the inside corner of the baseboards, I think I should probably build a "filler" board for this point but keep the running line as it appears in these pictures. That way, I'm only dealing with one board crossing rather than three!
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Mark, Neil,
Thanks for your welcome posts, I really do love those 6 wheelers, Mark! Please, do continue!
I have some 'set's of the cheaper 6 wheelers, earlier on in my Prussian career, I bought the Fleischmann "Wannsee" set and recently I bought the Fleischmann set of P8 and 6 wheelers!
In lieu of progress, I really must show some pictures of my stock, maybe?
Progress has been held up because I'm an idiot!
I decided that I didn't want my turntable to have several spurious exit tracks unconnected to anything else so I removed on to see how easy it was to remove the rails and use filler to remove any traces of where the rails where. I then subsequently lost/misplaced* this piece of the table, grrr!!!
Major problem as you cannot buy any spares - anywhere that I've found anyway!
I have feelers out and am hoping to rectify this situation as soon as possible.

*I had a major 'tidy up' as I made room in my shed/modelling den for a US layout and I'm sure this was when the turntable piece disapeared.
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh dear me, this has been such a long time since I last updated (sorry!).
Progress has been painfully slow, glacial even!
Good news however, I found my missing turntable segment!
The bad news was that I only found it AFTER I had ordered and received a set of additional segments from Lippe, they were reasonably priced in themselves but for such a small order, the postage was relatively expensive. Not to worry, at the time, I could not see how else to get around my missing segment! HA!
So, this is what a segment looks like;


And, with the rails and extraneous bits removed;


Filled with Squadron "White Putty" and sanded down;


As a group and with an original "blank" segment;


Now to paint, possibly fill & sand again, paint again and see what they look like!

I have also found a wonderful picture online showing a similar table in use, in Prussian days. Note that there are only handrails around the winding mechanism, health and safety was much less apparent in those days.


So, here is the original model;


And, without handrails!


A little cheating really, the handrails just unclip from the table, useful!
Hopefully, it won't be so long until my next update!
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
In the spirit of the season, may I just wish everyone;

~Frohe Weihnachten und ein glückliches neues Jahr! ~

~ Merry Christmas and a happy New Year! ~

~Joyeux Noël et une Bonne Année! ~

~ Feliz Navidad y próspero Año Nuevo! ~

~Wesołych Świąt i Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku!~

~Καλά Χριστούγεννα και ευτυχισμένο το νέο έτος!~

~Веселого Рождества и счастливого нового года!~

~God Jul og Godt Nyttår!~

~मेरी क्रिसमस और नया साल मुबारक हो!~

~Mutlu Noeller ve mutlu yıllar!~

~Nadolig llawen a blwyddyn newydd dda!~

~メリークリスマス、そして、あけましておめでとう!~

Full marks to anyone who can identify all these languages!
Bah Humbug!
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you Neil!
Just in case anyone was interested, the list was;
German,
English,
French,
Spanish,
Polish,
Greek,
Norwegian,
Hindi,
Turkish,
Welsh,
Japanese.
I could only write it with the help of Google 'translate' but (on facebook) I have friends who speak these languages and more! I really should have added Dutch anyway!
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Eskerrik asko, eta, Philip! That's certainly the first time I've ever used Basque but you gave me a good clue, cheers!
Aye and t'sayme a yoo, John!
My Derbyshire is home grown as I'm really from Derby and different parts of the county have stronger accents than others plus, how do you write it??
I used to tease my mum (from Duffield!) that her accent was more Yorkshire!!!
All the best,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thank you John!
From that photo, it sure looks to have been fun! I hope that 'winder' on the table, was not that colour scheme in my day!?!
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Over the holiday period I did get some modelling done (at last!).


Here we have all the blank segments completed (still with masking tape) and the partially repainted track segments too.


The rails were painted with Howes acrylic "dark rust" and the 'concrete' section with the same firms "concrete", I had to repaint this as all the blank sections were painted this way.


I took the opportunity to paint the rail sides on the bridge deck, these had to be masked off. Only when I removed the masking did I realise the section between the rails is removeable, oh well, never mind.
I also thought it a good idea at this stage to paint the sides only of the circular rail the bridge rides on, with all the segments in place, this would be very difficult.


I had also cut down the place where the bridge was built up to support the operators hut, also the supporting "jockey" wheel was repositioned.


I'm quite pleased with the overall appearance here.


As the bridge deck and the track segments are code 100 rail, I bought some Peco transition tracks to drop the section of rail down to code 75 and painted them too.


At very long last, the turntable is almost complete!
All that now needs to be done is to make and fit a short section of railing around the winder and then install into that hole in my baseboard that I cut, in about October 2015! Oops, that's too long ago, I hope the next bit of real progress doesn't take so long.
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks Reddo,
Wrt the "W" sign, I have no idea but it certainly sounds feasible.
Cheers,
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Hi All,
Thanks for the replies above and sorry for the delay in posting on here.
Now that summer is finally over, I hope to start making some progress with this, along with other projects to come.
I have done very little with this layout since my last post but a couple of important things have happened.
I have managed to clear all the junk from on top of the layout that had imperceptibly built up over time. It is amazing how one just places something with the intention of sorting it later, then something else and before you know it, the layout is invisible and it has become merely a storage shelf, well no more!
A bit more messing with the track layout and I shall start glueing.
Also, I realised that "Irgendwo" (somewhere) is rather too common a name for me, I wanted something different. This fact was hammered home at the recent(ish) ERA show at Edgbaston where there were at least two other 'Irgendwo's.
So! What to call this layout?
Trawls of the internet proved inconclusive and studies of online maps became brain numbing, then it dawned on me. A colleague had suggested that I place a statue outside my station of Fieldmarshall Blucher as he was instrumental in helping to defeat the French at Waterloo. Reading up on him, what a fascinating character he was. I've still not located a suitable figure of him to be my statue but I could pay tribute in another way.
Therefore, my new name for the layout is Leberecht!
As in Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher.
I think it sounds promising, how about you guys?
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks, Julian!

Here are two of my all-time favourite locos;


Weinert T9.3


Weinert T13

Both pictured rather incongruously on my American layout, in lieu of Leberecht being very unphotogenic.

I must admit - these are both ready to run items, not built by me but by the factory! I dearly wish I could claim that I have built them but no, I am not that good a modeller!
The T13 I won on German ebay after I had been selling off my American 0 scale brass(!), which was how I could afford it. Now, I did do some modelling with this one as when I got hold of it, it was seized up having been presumably sat in a display case for several years. I stripped it down, cleaned and degreased it and re-lubricated it and when it was working well, I digitized it - it is still a little noisy but runs very well.
The T9.3 I won at an actual auction for a fair price, it also came with a 'free' Weinert V65! This runs well enough but still needs digitising and as a mate said, could do with its lights making working.
Funnily enough, I also have two Fleischmann T9.3's and one Trix T13 - these will be for exhibition use as no way would I take the Weinerts to a show.
So, I am a bit of a chequebook modeller but only when it suits me - the Trix T13, in particular, is a far cry from the Weinert one.
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thank you, Richard!
Yes, while I might (given time!) be just about able to assemble such a model from the kit, I could never paint nor line it to such a standard.
I've known just two people who could, sadly one has died and the other would be unlikely to take such a commission from me, indeed he may be fully retired by now.
I must do a comparison shot of the Trix T13, just for interest.
Cheers,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I just wanted to say "Merry Christmas"!
May you all have a happy and peaceful time and hopefully, Santa brings you some nice things!


© Ulrich Budde c/o Drehschribe Online/Bundesbahnzeite

Best wishes,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Some progress, at last?
After building my baseboards, painting them and gluing on the initial underlay, modifying and fitting the turntable, I had come to a grinding halt. Family crises aside, such a delay can only be described as running out of steam!
Suddenly, my motivation and enthusiasm came back and I was able to contemplate the next job which is track laying.
I laid out some track, very loosely and pretty much according to my plans and I liked how it looked.
TRACK PICS






Next, I marked alongside the track for where the roadbed needs to go.
SKETCH PIC


Then, wouldn't you know it? Late in the day I discovered that my last bottle of 'Copydex' had dried up! So next day, off to the shops and resupplies purchased, in smaller bottles this time.
A couple of days work and the roadbed was more or less finished and I can start laying actual track.
ROADBED PIC.




I realised that it was pretty important to work out how to get power to traverser before laying any track so I set to and gave it some thought. The answer came to me in a flash of inspiration when I realised that I need two wires and I had two metal runners.
So, I soon made up some wires and connected it all together, a test run proved the concept worked although I don't know if it will last well but I made a lot of connections to be as sure as possible.
TRAVERSER PICS





The traverser fully prepared for track.
Until next time,
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Thanks, Everyone!
It does keep me going when people seem to like what I'm doing.

QUOTE (Mark Campbell @ 4 Jan 2018, 19:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi, great to see you progressing. However, to show how new I am to this game, what on earth is a traverser?
P.s. thanks for your advice on locos. Hopefully ordering a Brawa DR V100 this week. The Roco one had gone.
Hi Mark,
A traverser is a moving table with one or more tracks on it to feed one or more other tracks, hopefully, it will become apparent with the following;
Here is the traverser with all tracks glued down and electrical connections made,


With a train on and almost ready to go - as you can see, I have six tracks on my table and only one exit track. Therefore, the traverser moves back and forth, allowing different trains access, all from the same entry line. This saves lots of points and for me, more importantly - length.


I had to reduce the track height at the entrance to the traverser very slightly so used some thin copper-clad sleepers and while I was at it, I added a re-railer section, I have tested it and it does work. This is only needed while I have not yet built a locking mechanism to keep each traverser track in perfect alignment with the exit track.


I don't know if you can really see from this picture but the baseboard adjacent to the traverser, had suffered a slight distortion. It was simply too much up and down movement for my little trains to cope with so I cut out the entire foam roadbed out and inserted a finely sanded down piece of curved plywood in place, then re-laid the roadbed, it's not absolutely level but much better now.
Serves me right for not using the very best plywood available.


As you can see from here, I still had to glue some thin strips of card under the track.


I believe that it is bad practice to cross baseboard joins on a curve?


Sadly, it was unavoidable here, I have used soldered copper-clad sleepers again to reinforce the crossing, I really hope that will be sufficient. At the moment, these are not cut through but they will have to be when time comes to split the boards.
Cheers for now,
John.
 
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