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I am about to convert my collection of MSE semaphore signals to working LED lights and want some help with what sort of power supply do I require. All the LEDs are 1.8 mm and will number about 30. So what voltage is required to power them and what of the requirements to wiring, can they be wired as one for example?
I have a gantry that will require 14 lamps for example so what of that as well.
Thank you for any advice.
 

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Paul Hamilton aka "Lancashire Fusilier"
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Further to that, I suggest wiring a small circuit up for a few pence that will allow you to adjust the brightness of the LED by adjusting the voltage applied using a variable resistor.

Depending on the voltage rating of your LED which is typically around 1.5 - 3 Volts I would apply a 1000 ohm (1k) resistor in series with a 0-10,000 ohm trim pot which gives you resistoe adjustment from 1000 to 11000 ohms which when I apllied a 6 volt supply to resulted in very prototypical light levels using DCC Concepts 1.8 mm panel dot typw Prototypical White LED.
 

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QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 25 Aug 2008, 05:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Further to that, I suggest wiring a small circuit up for a few pence that will allow you to adjust the brightness of the LED by adjusting the voltage applied using a variable resistor.

Depending on the voltage rating of your LED which is typically around 1.5 - 3 Volts I would apply a 1000 ohm (1k) resistor in series with a 0-10,000 ohm trim pot which gives you resistoe adjustment from 1000 to 11000 ohms which when I apllied a 6 volt supply to resulted in very prototypical light levels using DCC Concepts 1.8 mm panel dot typw Prototypical White LED.
Thank you for the advice. I have done as you suggested and applied a 1000 ohm resistor in series to the LEDs. I have conneted them all to a gaugemaster transformer that was lying around obsolete now dcc is in use and have the voltage set to a level that looks right on the LEDs.
I might just get hold of a 3 volt adapter though,if you think there is a problem in using the gaugemaster for this purpose.
On a side note I got around the problem of what to do about scale wiring on my MSE semaphores. I used the wire from a motor winding I got from inside an old DVD player or something of that nature. It is coated with some kind of red enamel and is not much thicker that a human hair yet is perfectly insulated even pressing hard down on it across live rails I could not get my dcc layout to short.
On single posts signals I drilled a minute hole almost invisible to send the single wire down inside and for more complicated signals like a gantry the wires look like scale electrical cable anyway.
 

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Paul Hamilton aka &quot;Lancashire Fusilier&quot;
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QUOTE (Mark Chapman @ 29 Aug 2008, 06:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...I used the wire from a motor winding I got from inside an old DVD player or something of that nature. It is coated with some kind of red enamel and is not much thicker that a human hair yet is perfectly insulated even pressing hard down on it across live rails I could not get my dcc layout to short.
On single posts signals I drilled a minute hole almost invisible to send the single wire down inside and for more complicated signals like a gantry the wires look like scale electrical cable anyway.

Sounds good Mark. I was going to do the wire down the inside of the tubular post type signals but was a little more stumped by the cast white metal "timber" post style. It was suggested that a groove could be cut along the post and the wire laid into that however it doesn't look too bad to have the wire simply CA glued down the back once painted and weathered anyway.
 

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QUOTE (Mark Chapman @ 28 Aug 2008, 23:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>On a side note I got around the problem of what to do about scale wiring on my MSE semaphores. I used the wire from a motor winding I got from inside an old DVD player or something of that nature. It is coated with some kind of red enamel and is not much thicker that a human hair yet is perfectly insulated even pressing hard down on it across live rails I could not get my dcc layout to short.....

Such wire is known as 'Enamel' insulated. In modern terms it is a chemical coating. Often it acts as a flux when soldering it, avoiding the need to scrap it clean (known as 'self-fluxing' wire). Wires of around 36 - 42 SWG (Standard Wire Gauge) are probably the best to go for - fine, but reasonable to handle. Once you start getting below 42 SWG the wires are so fine they can be difficult to handle and can break easily.

My first two years of employment were spent designing, making and checking small coil-wound electrical components using these sorts of wires! I'm actually using 38SWG wire for my signals obtained from an old inductor I made during that period but never used as intended.

Regards,
John Webb
 

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Quite a number of working electrical accessories from companies such as Busch use this type of wire for the supply connections - make them very easy to hide.
 
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