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Well done, LF! beaten me to it.

A few points:
1. Drill the holes in the arm and other componants before removing from the fret - it's a lot easier.
2. Burnishing - can be done with 1200 grit wet/dry paper - again before moving from fret.
(If using fibre-brush adjust so that fibres only just protrude - this should prevent them breaking off.)
3. Making the pivot tube snugly fit the post - not strictly prototypical as the pivot bearing was a casting bolted onto the post. I've made up a small wood jig. This holds the post in place; a hole takes the pivot tube and keeps it at right-angles to the post while the soldered joint is made.
4. The same jig also holds the post steady while soldering on the balance weight pivot bracket.
5. Fixing to base - I haven't quite got that far but I intend tapping the inside of the post and holding it to the base with a small countersunk screw put in from under the base - and then soldering.

Re the LED - yes please, do post photos, be interested to see how you've done it compared to my experiments.

Regards,
John Webb
 

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David,

Noted re jig. Haven't anywhere to store pics on the internet at present, and I'm likely to be moving up to broadband from present dialup shortly, so there will be a delay. It's basically a couple of bits of MDF stuck together to form an 'L' shape. Post lies in the corner of the L where it can be kept still and the appropriate holes are drilled into the horizontal base to take the pivot tube at right-angles to the post, hold the pivot wire while soldering on the arm etc.

Regards,
John
 

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Re losing the triangular bit forming the underside of the lamp-bracket - likewise with mine. I cut a bit off the surplus fret and used that.

Your wire to the LED - what sort is it, exactly?

Regards,
John Webb
 

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Thanks, Richard. I have used some fine enamelled wire (around 40SWG) from an old inductor I'd made while working in my first job designing and making such devices at Plessy's in Ilford, Essex, about 40years ago. This is not quite human hair size but looks quite reasonable on the signal I've nearly made. And it stays in place as well.

Regards,
John
 

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I bought a Veissman signal solenoid from MSE while at the Railex 2008 exhibition at Aylesbury this weekend. My signal is not yet complete, so I could not try it out but the motion of the armature of the solenoid should provide movement akin to the electric signal motors particularly favoured by the GWR for distants, no bounce on placing to danger, of course.

I asked Andrew at MSE if he ever looked at this forum, and explained that someone was posting pictures of their construction of one of his signals. He commented he understood someone had done this already on the RM website. (They actually had a small stand at the show, by the way.)

Regards,
John Webb
 

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QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 27 May 2008, 11:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The Veissman comes recommended indeed and I look forward to seeing how you get on with it.
I'll let you know how I get on once I get back to the modelling!

QUOTE ....Saw your EM layout in a book I borrowed from the local library yesterday!!
Now that's interesting, since I've never modelled in EM gauge, let alone had it published in a book! Must be another John Webb. My layout was in an article in Railway Modeller in June last year, although it was mainly about the way I could run the Hornby Live steam on the same tracks as the ordinary 12v locos.

I intend to sit down tomorrow and look at your signal plans, but at a quick glance they look OK to me.

Regards,
John
 

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QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 28 May 2008, 12:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>....Anyway, I won't tell me wife that it isn't you as it has added weight to your expert opinions.
Thanks for the compliment. Which book was the EM layout in, by the way?

I've added my comments to the layout signal plan thread.

Regards,
John
 
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