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LF's First 4mm Scale Semaphore Kit

13073 Views 33 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Lancashire Fusilier
Right, MSE's LMS 4mm scale tubular post upper quadrant semaphore signal kit. (What a mouthful!)

Complete set of parts as delivered showing fret, ladder, wires, tubes, white metal castings, lens glazing and a base plate.

Following perusal of instructions I strated on the arm by burnishing both sides of the fret parts with the fibre glass burnisher (NOTE: the fibres are dangerous and will end up in your skin like splinters and are incredibly difficult to see or remove. Parts can be burnished under running water or I found food preparation gloves made from PVC not latex gave excellent protection without loss of dexterity as most actions involve the use of tweezers, pliars or soldering iron anyway)

You can see the two parts that were removed from the fret. Before removal I brushed a little flux onto the back of the arm and the front of the spectacle plate and applied a toush of the solder to the clean iron tip. Then touched the tip to the spec plat and this instantly put a thin veneer of solder in the triangular pice of the spec plate. Position the blade ontop and apply the soldering iron tip to the front and it melts the solder between the two bits making a hot solder sandwich and ruslts in a finished and complete blade and spec plate as shown.

Before moving the spec plate from the fret I drilled out the spindle hole to 0.8mm with a pin vice and appropriate size drill. If people are interested I am happy to show the tools that I used too. The other hole to drill out is the very scary 0.4mm hole that the operating wire connects to up in the far right corner of the spec plate. This I did in three steps using a 0.3, 0.35 and finally an 0.4mm drill to open this out without breaking the fret.

Once opened out you can solder in a spindle from some supplied 0.8mm wire. I drilled an 0.8mm hole in the pice of timber you see and stuck the wire in it. Then threaded on the spec plate and made the soldered connection from behind. Snipped off the spindle protruding through the front and filed with an emery board (wife's nail file type).

After that I cut the post and butt to size from the 2mm and 2.5mm brass tube respectively. I have chosen to model a 16' Starter and a table of sizes and scale lengths is included in the kit which I used to size the lengths. I cut the tube with my Xuron track cutters as I don't have a minidrill or Dremel type of tool, nor a razor saw for that matter! Will get there later I guess, maybe fathers' day perhaps. The track cutter worked well, very slight ovalation of the cut which was easily rectified by using the correct sized drill that match both tubes internal bore and thus reamed out the tubes ever so slightly.
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Well done and what an excellent set of photo's and commentary - if you could complete the set as you progress its a thread that would serve the forum well by being "pinned" by Doug and placed on permanent display as a "how to" in the forum to encourage others!

Nice to see you doing so well with all those new tools too :)

As to those scary small holes, its good to use a taper reamer on them and it saves using all those small drills - if U need I can arrange a set from about 0.3mm upwards for you when you visit later this month (but remind me by email before U come as I don't normally have them on display)

QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 18 May 2008, 21:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am not sure however Richard sold it to me and he mentions in a different thread.

Richard, perhaps you can re-iteate the wire type here?

*** Hi John/Paul

its an ultra-fine Kynar coated wire - solid core and silver plated for easy soldering. Very very thin insulation so the overall wire diameter is far finer than decoder wire but it contains equivalent copper.

Superb for tight DCC installation work as well as such things as Pauls signals - its big advantage is that while actually very easy to use it stays where U put it without flopping verywhere like decoder wire - especially vauable where space or layout/position within the loco or model is important.

The kynar insulation loves superglue too, so its easily tacked in place. I often use it for simulating power, conduit or lubrication lines on loco models as well as other things. The insulation likes permanent marker pen ink too so if a visible wire is not black and should be it can soon be coloured that way :)

It can be expensive to buy by the reel but I sell it in a pack of several colours for $A6

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