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QUOTE (dwb)how do you avoid the shards?

hello david

You dont but you do learn to remove them effeciently!

its comming along nicely! i must admit i was a bit worried after your first picture. the folds looked a bit dodgey and i was a bit shy about saying so but its turned out very nice.

for soldering little objects to big ones, this is where you really need the power of the iron. i find it best to cut a tiny shard of solder and place it exactly where i want it with a pair of tweezers right next to the small item. then, with the aid of plenty of flux, sweat the whole thing together.
in other words, get the parts and the solder and the flux where you want it before applying lots of heat. make sure the tip of the iron is freshly wiped, the less time the iron is touching the object the less chance there is of all he other joints falling apart!

those little brackets are a particlarly difficult joint. the solder has tendency to capilary down the grooves in the boards.

if you have a couple of different temperatures of solder, then i would do evry other step with high temp then go and do the ones inbetween with the lower temp.

i find it fascinating seeing other people solder. i was tought to do electrical soldering and soldering stained glass windows. i have never used the technique that most modellers are using.
 

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a very nice signal box david. it turned out really well.

I also do stained glass and one of the tools i use is a ruler with a non slip backing. its perfect for when you areally dont want anything moveing. and also very good for lineing coaches when you dont want to scratch paintwork.

I got mine in lead and light in camden.

I look forward to seeing the interior develope

Peter
 
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