***Hi David
If you are sure it should be through in all places, by all means have a go with a blade to fix it - many gentle passes rather than a hard go at it though. Also a blade with the very tip snapped off will be better - you want to scrape away a super fine slither, not cut, as this will distort the planks.
Re bending, I usually do it against a steel rule or straight file edge - locate the rule at the half etch line then bend against a hard straight surface - the ruler supports the flap as its bent and keeps it perfectly straight.
Re the soldering, I note you are using tacks at several points, and the look of the joint makes me think perhaps you are using standard solder and no flux?
The best procedure for long seam joints is:
(1) Prepare all parts by filing the etched cusp square - be gentle here, a couple of strokes will get rid of it! Now clean up the surfaces generally and then clean where solder is to go with a fibreglass brush or fine wet and dry.
(2) Option 1.
Add lots of flux to the area to be soldered and tin it/them with a very thin coat of solder (Then follow 3 on, but with very little added solder - just enough to "wet" the tip of the Iron.
(2) Option 2.
Hold the parts together and liberally apply flux.
(3) Soldering Iron set to between 370 and 400 degrees. Pick up a small amount of 145 degree or 179 degree solder with the Iron and apply to the parts, drawing the Iron along the seam. Stop as soon as the flux has boiled off
(4) If needed, add more flux and solder as appropriate. When it comes to solder "less is more" - you only need a very small amount and there is no need for larger lumps to hold parts together - it should be as thin as a paint coat!
Clean up the joint if needed using solder mop dipped in flux to remove any excess solder before going on to the next joint.
regards
Richard
(PS: I very much prefer special shears/scissors to cut the frets - they cut perfectly to the part edge so no need for cleaning up dags after removal and handle up to 0.15" brass. As a bonus, the ones I had made under DCCconcepts label are fine enough to cut the fine etching "cusp" off the edge of etched brass too!
QUOTE (dwb @ 2 Feb 2009, 03:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've just been doing some "tab" filing in preparation for the next stage and noticed that the etching for the planking of the veranda/platform is not completely through in all places. Is it wise to have a go at cleaning this up with a scalpel blade or should I leave well alone?
David
If you are sure it should be through in all places, by all means have a go with a blade to fix it - many gentle passes rather than a hard go at it though. Also a blade with the very tip snapped off will be better - you want to scrape away a super fine slither, not cut, as this will distort the planks.
Re bending, I usually do it against a steel rule or straight file edge - locate the rule at the half etch line then bend against a hard straight surface - the ruler supports the flap as its bent and keeps it perfectly straight.
Re the soldering, I note you are using tacks at several points, and the look of the joint makes me think perhaps you are using standard solder and no flux?
The best procedure for long seam joints is:
(1) Prepare all parts by filing the etched cusp square - be gentle here, a couple of strokes will get rid of it! Now clean up the surfaces generally and then clean where solder is to go with a fibreglass brush or fine wet and dry.
(2) Option 1.
Add lots of flux to the area to be soldered and tin it/them with a very thin coat of solder (Then follow 3 on, but with very little added solder - just enough to "wet" the tip of the Iron.
(2) Option 2.
Hold the parts together and liberally apply flux.
(3) Soldering Iron set to between 370 and 400 degrees. Pick up a small amount of 145 degree or 179 degree solder with the Iron and apply to the parts, drawing the Iron along the seam. Stop as soon as the flux has boiled off
(4) If needed, add more flux and solder as appropriate. When it comes to solder "less is more" - you only need a very small amount and there is no need for larger lumps to hold parts together - it should be as thin as a paint coat!
Clean up the joint if needed using solder mop dipped in flux to remove any excess solder before going on to the next joint.
regards
Richard
(PS: I very much prefer special shears/scissors to cut the frets - they cut perfectly to the part edge so no need for cleaning up dags after removal and handle up to 0.15" brass. As a bonus, the ones I had made under DCCconcepts label are fine enough to cut the fine etching "cusp" off the edge of etched brass too!
QUOTE (dwb @ 2 Feb 2009, 03:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've just been doing some "tab" filing in preparation for the next stage and noticed that the etching for the planking of the veranda/platform is not completely through in all places. Is it wise to have a go at cleaning this up with a scalpel blade or should I leave well alone?
David
