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· Stanier's Love Child
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a simple inexpensive way of creating holes in flexible track sleepers ready for track pins?
 

· In depth idiot
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If I may be cheeky, have you considered the no-expense choice of not making a hole? Drawing pins between the sleepers will hold down flexible track until the adhesive has gone off.
 

· Premium Member
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An alternative to a drawing pin (you can adjust how hard it is holding down if you want to 'shim' things/etc) would be a small self-tapping screw with a flange head such as these (only looked fairly quickly, and are likely locally sourced options with faster delivery).

It is worth considering that you'll want the size of the screw head to be able to comfortably span between adjacent sleepers.

To answer the original question though; I would personally use a small battery-powered mini-drill such as this, as it gets around the restrictions that a wired one would have.

Regards,

Cameron.

(Note that I have not used either supplier/device personally, but they look like they should do the trick)
 

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I find the simplest way is to drill the hole with a small Archimedean drill. These are usually available from tool suppliers who usually attend model railway exhibitions. I would recommend using Peco track pins as they are very fine. Accordingly the drill bit should also be very fine. Squires sell two types of Archimedean drill as shown on page MCT2 of their catalogue. Have a look here:


Squires also sell drill bits of appropriate size.

Terry
 

· Administrator
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I use Copydex for securing my track so I don't need pins. It peels off quite easily if you need to adjust the track position.

David
 

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Is there a simple inexpensive way of creating holes in flexible track sleepers ready for track pins?
It depends on what the purpose of creating them is.
If you are using them to fix track down while glue dries and then take them out afterwards, then I would suggest that 34C's approach is ideal. Kiwi's suggestion is also just as good, but it might result in larger holes in your trackbed - maybe not an issue.

If you are proposing to leave the track pins in, then this is where I will also be cheeky and say 'please don't join the track pin brigade'. Track pins are track pins and look like, er well, track pins. In my opinion, they totally spoil layouts and make them look toy like. Always glue track down - there's a variety of glues that can be used and as we have seen here, a variety of ways of holding track in place while the glue dries.

If you really MUST spoil your layout with track pins, drill holes in the ends of sleepers using a mini-drill. Don't 'punch' holes through using the pins otherwise the plastic will be distorted and don't use a single pin between the rails as this has a habit of causing 'sleeper curl' which causes gauge narrowing and derailments.

And before you fix any track down, ALWAYS connect your wires the the UNDERSIDES of the rails to avoid the dreaded solder globule mess: Model Railways Online

HTH
 

· In depth idiot
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I use Copydex for securing my track so I don't need pins...
I haven't used Copydex beyond a brief experiment, and as you describe, liked it 'mechanically'. But the smell, how long before it is odour free? The pong lingered from a two yard single track length after a couple of weeks, so I put it outside under shelter, and that fixed it after three months. A little nervous over what would happen on twenty five feet of four track plus yards, no way of schlepping that outside for a prolonged airing...

And further to Graham's suggestion about preparing track before it is laid on the support; paint the track sides of all points before laying, so much easier to apply and clean up around the flange gaps etc. while it is a loose piece...
 

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Copydext I found really good yes a little smelly to begin with but that does not last. Athough a little expensive I think it is worth it Some of my trackwork has been hanging up on it's side for number of years in the garage and has remained fixed . Removing is not difficult either and the glue can be rubbed off quite reasonably . If you need to temporary fix use a screw between the sleepers I used 20mm x 4 screws and some washers mostly on curved trackwork but the pan head screws Cameron suggested sounds good. Jim
 

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Can't remember how long the Copydex 'pong' lasted, maybe a few days but that's in the attic which is open at the eaves to allow ventilation.

David
 

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I also used Copydext to stick the Woodland Scenic's track bed to the baseboard to mitigate the drumming sound as PVA dries hard and pins are said to make this problem worse though I cannot confirm this. Jim
 

· Stanier's Love Child
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Many thanks for all your comments and advice. I have now bought some map pins to locate track and will be using copydex as most of you advise. However, my wife may have other thoughts as my layout is next to our bedroom!
 

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I use a sharp pin driver sort of a screwdriver but with a sharp point, the pin then is knocked in, look at my pics see if you can spot them? drawing pins are bulky and look wrong, often I remove to adjust something and find there are more than I see, there are a variety of track pins the Hornby are like stubby nails and not long enough, Peco sell long thin ones made of easy bend but they also make an intermediate type and it is these that I use, Glueing will result in a mess if you use ballast, so ye takes yer choice.

Spot the track pins
 

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I'm starting a new layout soon so today I started taking up the track on one old board some nine points . The points and track came up ok except where they were pinned via copper clad at the ends of the boards. The Copydext came off by rubbing my thumb over them I used a snap off bladed knife to release the track from the woodland scenic's underlay all points are reusable. Jim
 
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