[Wattsy]

Hi to all you Live Steam enthusiasts.

I recently aquired a 'New' Hornby OO Mallard Live Steam engine which I surprising learnt how to drive quite quickly over a few hours, a couple of weekends ago. By new I mean that it hadn't been run before and was in mint condition. As expected, running it the first time wasn't without its issues, including a couple of out-of-control derailments, but nothing dramatic that appeared to cause damage. I also ran this train in with as many as seven coaches and I couldn't believe how well it performed, straight out of the box. The power, as you would know, was amazing and it just went around and around for many hours.

However a couple of nights ago, I proudly unpacked my new train to show some family members how good this new model was and was left extremely disappointed by its distinct lack of power, to the point where after a couple of laps of the oval, would just come to a halt. It was almost like the more I asked from it, the slower it would go.

So since this has happened, I have pulled out the rolling road to try to understand the issues. From a novices perspective, the engine doesn't seem damaged. I have timed at least 10 minutes on Super Heat to get a full head of steam prior to opening the valves. Basically what is happening is that the train moves off no problems, but when it its time to get the speed up, it slows to a halt when I move the lever in the same direction as what it is already moving.

Tonight I have removed the casing to observe the 'valve movement' and noticed that the wheels do not go into motion until at least halfway along the "etched" area of the valve control. This is around 9 single clicks of the lever. What then happens when it is time to go faster, the moving piece moves off the "etched" area and then it starts to slow. Apologies for the lack of knowledge on exactly what these pieces are called and I hope this makes sense to the experienced steam users out there.

I am hoping that someone might have a suggestion or solution to this, however being based in South Australia, my service options really are limited to sending this back to Hornby in the UK for some expert advise as I am not aware of anyone locally who I would trust to look at this great model.

Cheers in anticipation,
David

 

[John Webb]

When the moving contact is on the 'Etched' area of the valve 'control' as you describe it, the green cab lamp should be on. When the contact is on the plain section on the right-hand side, that lights the red lamp in the cab to indicate the valve system is in the neutral position. So if the loco starts to slow when the contact moves to the right, that's what should happen - the maximum speed should be when the contact is on the left.

The wheels should start turning soon after the green light comes on, but when cold the build-up of water from the steam condensing in the cool cylinders makes for erratic steaming as the water is forced out of the cylinders. I always run either of my live steam locos on a rolling-road for at least five minutes before placing on the track to warm up the cylinders and get rid of the condensate - it makes for much more controllable running.

The symptom you describe suggests that the valve timing may be a little out. See if the wheels are trying to turn soon after the green light comes on with a little prod from a finger. Check too if there is any difference in running backwards to forwards. (My A3 ran beautifully backwards but badly forwards due to a mis-set valve.)

Other possible problems are leaks from the seal on the boiler filler, or a loose connection on the steam pipe between tender and engine. Both these faults will stop the build-up of steam in quantity.

Hope this helps,
John Webb

 

[Wattsy]

Hi John.

Thanks very much for your detailed reply.

In relation to the Green lamp and Red lamp diagnosis, what you have descibed is what I have experienced from the beginning. In fact when I first started running this engine, I was surprised how quickly the engine started moving after the green light went on. This I guess is the biggest noticable difference I have found since this problem has started - it takes ages and around 9 flicks of the lever for the wheel to even think about moving after the green light goes on. That probably answers your question then around the finger prod - nothing to report, unlike when first run.

As far as forwards and backwards, each way runs the same and the controller seems to be able to achieve this change easily. I had wondered whether the controller was actually causing the issue, but am thinking now this is not the case.

If it is indeed the valve timing, that sounds like a Hornby Service call to me as I don't imagine a new user like me would be able to adjust this easily?

I have changed the seal on the boiler filler as I did wonder the same. Is there an easy way to see if there is a loose connection between the tender and engine? i.e. is it obvious?

Anyway, thanks again for your thoughts and suggestions. Anything else you can add would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, David

 

[John Webb]

If there are loose connections on the tender/loco connection, then there should be a noticeable loss of water or steam through them; if there is no noticeable leak, they are probably OK. But you can turn the loco upside down and check that the fittings each end of the hose do not move. If they do, align them 'fore and aft' and gently tighten the fixing screw(s) until they don't move.

Check also both piston rod glands (ie where the piston rod goes into the cylinder) are OK - loose glands causing leaks here will also affect performance.

It is possible that in one of your early sessions, when it derailed, something was disturbed.

Another thought: Is your track permanent or temporary? If the latter, there could be a poor connection reducing power - but that is usually typified by a loss of control as well!
Regards,
John Webb

PS on full heat I usually find it takes 6-8 mins to get to the point where the safety valves lift briefly at short intervals. I tend to slightly under-fill rather than over-fill; is it possible you are putting just a bit too much water in? Try a 20ml fill, and see if that makes any difference?
John

 

[Wattsy]

Hi John,

Thanks again for your thoughts.

I will spend some time over the next couple of nights looking at this and let you know how I go.

Some really useful tips there, so I really appreciate your time.

Cheers, David

 

[sid911]

Hi Wattsy if you are still having problems you can contact hornby for them to service it for you as I believe they are still doing for the live steam.