[jk1]

Thankyou for correcting me on that! I think you had mentioned that book, just looked on amazon and there are some used ones available. Might have to purchase a copy.

Regards Jason

 

[Edwin]

QUOTE (John Webb @ 31 Oct 2008, 19:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Jason - the indicator with the GPL signal in your photo above is actually a 'Stencil' indicator.

I think this is one of the latest ones which are actually more like theatre indicators. They use a matrix of white LEDs or fibre optics to show one of several route codes in the same display.

 

[jk1]

I've been back home this weekend and have made a start on modifying the track layouts. Luckily removing the original points turned out to be quite easy, just had to cut a few fishplates to remove point's vertically. I have replaced the blank spaces with Peco point plans just to make sure everything will fit, and it does! In fact the entire alterations only require 3 curved radius points extra to what I removed so that's not bad. Pictures below of progress...

I have also received my copy of Model Railway Signalling by C.J Freezer, thank you for the recommendation and it made for an interesting read. I am slightly more clued up on the whole subject. I also received my kit signals from Knightwing, they certainly would pose a challenge to add LED's but not impossible. I have some brass rod in the stores that is ideal to replace the original plastic pole, and the heads should drill out but with a modified back using styrene. I purchased LED's to do the job ages ago, just need sum miniature wire and a steady hand for soldering! A Project for the Christmas holidays... given that us 'part-time' students get 3 weeks!

Regards Jason

 

[John Webb]

All noted - still haven't had a chance to look at previous round of diagrams due to domestic priorities and the like.

Regards,
John

 

[jk1]

Ok so Christmas couldnt wait! Got a bit carried away with my Knightwing conversion project... heres a pic of the main base and pole with fittings attached:

I have then taken the head and modified it to allow the LED's in. I will be purchasing some water clear LED's to replace the colour ones in the pic at present. All i need is some miniature cable... i guess instrument wire... anyone know of the best place to get it!? Rapid where i will be purchasing the LED's from do 0.1mm wire but you have to buy 10 rolls if i understand correctly!

Regards Jason

 

[jk1]

Well ive done a little more to the first signal project, painted the main body and the signal heads. I have a picture below with it placed next to a Roger Murray signal that I got on eBay. I am unsure where the signal is modelled on but i purchased it for studying construction, and it was cheap! Hopefuly I should get the 4 wires down the thinner brass tube! The base is also the wrong colour... I think I will go to the model shop and get some proper concrete colour paint.

Regards Jason

 

[Edwin]

That looks excellent, and as you say the water-clear LEDs will improve it further. I think your Roger Murray signal is actually a London Underground prototype so don't read too much into the detail of its fittings etc, but it confirms you are on the right track.

The thinnest kind of wire is the enamelled copper that is intended for winding coils etc - Rapid do this in various sizes and I have some but haven't got round to doing signals yet. If you have any old mice around the individual cores from their cables are supposed to be useful too.

 

[jk1]

Thanks for the comment! I have progressed on a little further although havent received the clear LED's yet. I also need to purchase a roll of the insulated copper wire as suggested. I have made up the bases of the other signals included in the kit. It is slightly annoying that the set of four signals only comes with two ancillary lights. I also started a feather type signal as well. I have modified the feather to house a grain of wheat bulb (hoping the heat wont affect the plastic...) I might have to look at smaller LED's... I can live with large LED backs, but just need a small shaped head to fit in the feather holes. The Knightwing kits are very flexible, making the holes has been easy and if you break anything plenty of poly cement will fix it!! Pictures below show progress and how i am modifying items for lighting.

Regards Jason

 

[jk1]

This weekend managed to complete the first signal (S5 from the signalling diagram). I managed to break down an old large transformer to get the insulated copper winding wire and this works a treat. The results are shown below!

Regard Jason

 

[John Webb]

Jason - excellent work!

It is possible to considerably flatten the faces of the rounded LEDs which both shortens them and makes for greater realism. Best done with the 'clear water' type where it's easier to see when you are approaching the actual LED works - use 'wet and dry' paper, finishing off with 1200 grade to almost polish it flat.

Sorry - still not had time to check over the previous diagrams yet.

Regards,
John

 

[jk1]

I am posting updates on a new thread here from now on.