[John Webb]

Re Columbo's post #11, I use a similar method with my Fulgerex motors, but use two separate small PSUs to give me the +/- 12 volts - advantage is you only need a single pole switche, not double pole and one wire from the switch to the point motor plus the one common OV wire. If you link the unused terminals of the two limit switches controlling the point motor this can be connected back by one wire to the control panel and through a resistor to two LEDs wired in parallel but opposite ways round. This gives you the actual position of the point motor as well as operation for only two wires. (For those not using DCC, anyway!)
Regards,
John Webb

 

[John Webb]

The light in most illuminated push-button switches, whether a bulb or LED, is usually on a seperate circuit, so it should be possible to wire it up from the switch(es) on a point motor to give the indication required without having to hold a switch down. The main problem is that a push-button with built-in light is usually much more expensive than a simple push-button switch and separate LED, which is the route I've taken on my layout.
Regards,
John Webb

 

[John Webb]

I'm not into Roco, so I assume we're talking about 4mm or HO scale here, ie 16.5mm track. If so, it is a remarkably compact mechanism.
Regards,
John Webb

 

[John Webb]

The old 'H&M' (Hamnett & Morgan) solenoid point motors also had a built-in switch which could be connected to act in the same way as Arnold's 'End-off' switch. These are still often available at swap-meets and the like, although at a higher price than a new Peco motor. Robust (aluminium frame) and could be mounted above or below board without any accessory base needed. For underbaseboard mounting there was a extension crank which only needed a small (2mm) hole rather than a slot. Multiple holes in the cranks so you could select the best throw for your points. I've got some on the sidings on my layout and for the fiddle yard; working well despite their age.

Regards,
John Webb