[Doug]

Hi parksie, welcome to the forum.

I am in the process of doing exactly what you have in mind too.

I have 3 main control areas to my new layout that is now under construction.

I have electric push-button point controllers that link up using DCC at each control post.

There will be a simple schematic at each post indicating the way that the points are set. I want this because the points can be changed by two types of controller (walkabout cab and fixed point switches), and by hand. The indicators on the switch boxes are not updated if another device switches the point or if it is done by hand.

So attached to the underside of each point-motor will be a Peco micro-switch that will be linked to a 3 volt circuit and a couple of LEDs. I'm using bi-colour LEDs that will indicate green for the through-route and red for the other section.

This should then nicely indicate the route available to the loco as it progresses through the section.

 

[Doug]

I think that it is this one (PL-13) - I must go and check:

The switch sits under the pin that moves the point. You can extend the pin through the table top as long as you have a hole for it to move.

There is another type of switch (PL-33) wich can be used above the table if it is hidden in a hut or building.

 

[Doug]

This is how to wire it up. I'm putting it here so I don't forget it too...

Plan your layout as well as you can. My ideas can be found here

I'm done with running trains on plywood - now for some real scenery.

 

[Doug]

Tortoise is expensive if you add on the Hare DCC controller. £11 for the Tortoise and £22 for the Hare.

Fulgurex slow action Point Motor is £9.50, but to make it work with DCC you need a LA010 Two wire point motor adaptor that costs another £8.50 per point. It all ads up.

I'm ordering some Tillig items for testing so I've added their point motor to see if it works well. It costs £8 and looks like it is DCC compatible and has outputs for panel and signal LEDs as well as frog switching:

It has a positive action and holds the point blades in place as the Tillig points do not have a spring. The other makes above also require you to remove the spring in the Peco points to prevent short-circuits as the point could flip over before the proper electrical contacts have been made for the track current.

I'm picking up a bunch of Tillig points and track in HO/OO and HOe to test too so I'll show you what that looks like next week.

 

[Doug]

QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 30 May 2006, 07:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...I thought that a passing contact illuminated push button switch could be used ...

Trouble with those buttons is that to switch on the light the contact has to be made and kept. Points, DC or DCC, need a momentary connection. The LEDs have to be on a different circuit that is kep on.

 

[Doug]

For an update on the Tillig point motor (with photos), look here.