Posts by JimmyH
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QUOTE (Julian2011 @ 15 Sep 2012, 17:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Anthony,
That nice David Todd chap put me onto something in your thread here, the Tracklay system.
I had been working out how to lay the Gaugemaster Ballasted Underlay stuff on a small layout I am designing, as the 2x baseboard tops are 3mm ply. I don't want to glue the track to the boards direct and the idea of a large bag of loose ballast and chasing round over 75 ft of track, with a pipette, does nothing for my enthusiasm.
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I was not aware of the Tracklay System before and it looks more straightforward to fit than the Gaugemaster Underlay, although a little longer time to do.
Their website suggests after sticking the track to the Tracklay they should be pinned down to the baseboard. I would prefer to use a bead of glue, perhaps Copydex or even PVA, along the centreline, under the underlay. I am not sure how yours has been attached to the baseboard but guess pins as you are reusing some track and didn't say anything about peeling it up or easing any glue. Do you think that the Tracklay would be OK attached to the baseboard with Copydex along the centreline and then the outside edges would also help attach it where the side ballast is glued?
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Question 2, which Tracklay do not address in their website, is passing the Droppers through the Tracklay to the centreline to a hole through the baseboard. There is plenty of thick foam on the Gaugemaster to hide the Dropper wire, is that also the case for the Tracklay or do you have to glue and cover the wires in ballast?
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Thank you for reading.
Julian
Gaugemaster thread:- http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...mp;#entry270846
I hope Anthony doesn't mind me putting in my 2c here, but I've also been using tracklay and have a couple of comments.
regarding the dropper wires, the foam is very thin and very flexible, so you can simply make a cut in from the side of the tracklay to the point where the dropper wire contacts the rail, and maneuver the wire into position through that. the tracklay can be then made, with a bit of care, to mould around the wire, making a virtually seamless join once it is ballasted. that's how I did it anyway. I found I had to add the dropper wires before attaching the tracklay to the underside of the track. I will be interested to hear how Anthony approached this.
the adhesive top side of the tracklay is quite good, and it is easy to make adjustments to the underside on points etc, such as cutting small holes for point motors etc, but something has to be done to the point tie bar (correct term?) as otherwise it will not move back and forth properly (due to the sticky tracklay). I simply put a coloured piece of paper under it.
anyway, the main thing I wanted to say was that you should be careful what size ballast you use. unfortunately I chose to use fine ballast, without realizing that the nature of the tracklay would mean there was only a thin film of ballast on top of it. if you use this system you should go for a bigger size like Anthony has.
![]()
That nice David Todd chap put me onto something in your thread here, the Tracklay system.
I had been working out how to lay the Gaugemaster Ballasted Underlay stuff on a small layout I am designing, as the 2x baseboard tops are 3mm ply. I don't want to glue the track to the boards direct and the idea of a large bag of loose ballast and chasing round over 75 ft of track, with a pipette, does nothing for my enthusiasm.
Their website suggests after sticking the track to the Tracklay they should be pinned down to the baseboard. I would prefer to use a bead of glue, perhaps Copydex or even PVA, along the centreline, under the underlay. I am not sure how yours has been attached to the baseboard but guess pins as you are reusing some track and didn't say anything about peeling it up or easing any glue. Do you think that the Tracklay would be OK attached to the baseboard with Copydex along the centreline and then the outside edges would also help attach it where the side ballast is glued?
Question 2, which Tracklay do not address in their website, is passing the Droppers through the Tracklay to the centreline to a hole through the baseboard. There is plenty of thick foam on the Gaugemaster to hide the Dropper wire, is that also the case for the Tracklay or do you have to glue and cover the wires in ballast?
Thank you for reading.
Julian
Gaugemaster thread:- http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...mp;#entry270846
I hope Anthony doesn't mind me putting in my 2c here, but I've also been using tracklay and have a couple of comments.
regarding the dropper wires, the foam is very thin and very flexible, so you can simply make a cut in from the side of the tracklay to the point where the dropper wire contacts the rail, and maneuver the wire into position through that. the tracklay can be then made, with a bit of care, to mould around the wire, making a virtually seamless join once it is ballasted. that's how I did it anyway. I found I had to add the dropper wires before attaching the tracklay to the underside of the track. I will be interested to hear how Anthony approached this.
the adhesive top side of the tracklay is quite good, and it is easy to make adjustments to the underside on points etc, such as cutting small holes for point motors etc, but something has to be done to the point tie bar (correct term?) as otherwise it will not move back and forth properly (due to the sticky tracklay). I simply put a coloured piece of paper under it.
anyway, the main thing I wanted to say was that you should be careful what size ballast you use. unfortunately I chose to use fine ballast, without realizing that the nature of the tracklay would mean there was only a thin film of ballast on top of it. if you use this system you should go for a bigger size like Anthony has.
QUOTE (Anthony566 @ 16 Sep 2012, 11:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Jimmy feel free to chip in
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Julian I do use track pins to hold my track as the TrackLay is very flexible and so is the peco flexi track I'm useing so it does not hold its shape I'm sure on point areas and straight sections just sticking the tracklayer down would be fine but I'm sot sure about bends unless you are useing set track ?
I have re used loads of my track with the tracklay on it.
As for ballest I'm useing std and medium mixed as the fine is just a bit to small for me
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one thing I would recommend is to wash your ballest if you are useing a stone one as it will have a dust power on it. I just used a very fine sieve and then dryer it in the oven for 10 mins as it will stick a lot better to the tracklay if you do.
As for droppers I have drilled a small hole through the tracklay on both sides of the track section I'll put up a photo later today to show this
Now as for ordering the chap who sells TrackLay has been I'll but his wife is taking orders over the phone so just leave a voice message and your number and she will ring you back it just might take a few days, have you worked out how many meters you need to order ?
Anyway feel free to drop me a line if you need anything else.
Now back to the garage .... As I'm fighting with the track in my TMD area this weekend
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I glued down all my tracklay, including on flexi-curves. as Anthony says, it won't hold the curve by itself until the glue dries, so I used a few temporary small nails on the outer edges of the sleepers to coax the track into the correct shape. it worked fine but because I have glued it the tracklay will not be reusable in my case. I used normal PVA glue to do this.
Julian I do use track pins to hold my track as the TrackLay is very flexible and so is the peco flexi track I'm useing so it does not hold its shape I'm sure on point areas and straight sections just sticking the tracklayer down would be fine but I'm sot sure about bends unless you are useing set track ?
I have re used loads of my track with the tracklay on it.
As for ballest I'm useing std and medium mixed as the fine is just a bit to small for me
As for droppers I have drilled a small hole through the tracklay on both sides of the track section I'll put up a photo later today to show this
Now as for ordering the chap who sells TrackLay has been I'll but his wife is taking orders over the phone so just leave a voice message and your number and she will ring you back it just might take a few days, have you worked out how many meters you need to order ?
Anyway feel free to drop me a line if you need anything else.
Now back to the garage .... As I'm fighting with the track in my TMD area this weekend
I glued down all my tracklay, including on flexi-curves. as Anthony says, it won't hold the curve by itself until the glue dries, so I used a few temporary small nails on the outer edges of the sleepers to coax the track into the correct shape. it worked fine but because I have glued it the tracklay will not be reusable in my case. I used normal PVA glue to do this.
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