New Garage Layout
841 - 860 of 861 Posts
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
QUOTE (reddo @ 29 Apr 2017, 05:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Very nice. Those COLAS are a great pair.I did a quick check and amazingly I have them also...like you, somewhere 
Liveries like Colas are one of the reasons I like modern locos as having lots of colour just looks better then a field of just green
![]()
Although i do like steam
![]()
Liveries like Colas are one of the reasons I like modern locos as having lots of colour just looks better then a field of just green
Although i do like steam
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
I have had a few messages about installation of the Cobalt point motors ... i have a few photos of the installation steps and i will record a small video of setting a point motor up on my ECoS and on my Alpha control panel.
The first thing you need to do is centre your point .. i just use two small bits of plastic
Once you have done this you need to set up the motor itself. .. add the adhesive pad and install the wire to the motor
The next step requires you to stick the point motor to the center line of the hole under the point itself making sure you insert the point motor wire through the hole in the point tie bar.
I have drilled 8mm holes directly below the point tie bar ( i drilled these holes when i was laying my track ) once you have your point motors in the correct position then add the four supplied screws .... Remember not to over tighten these screws as this could pull the motor out of shape and affect the operation of the Cobalt.
Do not cut the point motor wire arm until you have completed the point motor setup as they are supplied centered and if you cut it to close to the tie bar hole this may affect the operation of the point.
The first thing you need to do is centre your point .. i just use two small bits of plastic
Once you have done this you need to set up the motor itself. .. add the adhesive pad and install the wire to the motor
The next step requires you to stick the point motor to the center line of the hole under the point itself making sure you insert the point motor wire through the hole in the point tie bar.
I have drilled 8mm holes directly below the point tie bar ( i drilled these holes when i was laying my track ) once you have your point motors in the correct position then add the four supplied screws .... Remember not to over tighten these screws as this could pull the motor out of shape and affect the operation of the Cobalt.
Do not cut the point motor wire arm until you have completed the point motor setup as they are supplied centered and if you cut it to close to the tie bar hole this may affect the operation of the point.
Great stuff, very timely and helpful. I bought a 12 pack of these to install after trying to get the Fulgurex to work with no success. Mine will be driven by the AD8SFx decoders (2 No) driven by the ECOS. Looking forward to Part 2 of the install etc. Cheers
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
QUOTE (reddo @ 29 Apr 2017, 18:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Great stuff, very timely and helpful. I bought a 12 pack of these to install after trying to get the Fulgurex to work with no success. Mine will be driven by the AD8SFx decoders (2 No) driven by the ECOS. Looking forward to Part 2 of the install etc. Cheers
Hi Paul,
Depending on the version of Cobalt you have they may not be all ready centred but if not you can center them before installing them.
Hi Paul,
Depending on the version of Cobalt you have they may not be all ready centred but if not you can center them before installing them.
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
*** Reddo - which model Cobalt did you buy?
If you wanted to drive them with DCC, then you really should have bought Cobalt iP digital as it would have been more economical than Motor + separate decoder.
As it is you cannot drive Cobalt with An AD8S-fx decoder. The S stands for Solenoids!
Kind regards
Richard
QUOTE (reddo @ 30 Apr 2017, 02:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Great stuff, very timely and helpful. I bought a 12 pack of these to install after trying to get the Fulgurex to work with no success. Mine will be driven by the AD8SFx decoders (2 No) driven by the ECOS. Looking forward to Part 2 of the install etc. Cheers
If you wanted to drive them with DCC, then you really should have bought Cobalt iP digital as it would have been more economical than Motor + separate decoder.
As it is you cannot drive Cobalt with An AD8S-fx decoder. The S stands for Solenoids!
Kind regards
Richard
QUOTE (reddo @ 30 Apr 2017, 02:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Great stuff, very timely and helpful. I bought a 12 pack of these to install after trying to get the Fulgurex to work with no success. Mine will be driven by the AD8SFx decoders (2 No) driven by the ECOS. Looking forward to Part 2 of the install etc. Cheers
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
*** Hi Tony
A helpful post - but one small comment if I could please.
QUOTE (Anthony566 @ 30 Apr 2017, 02:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><Snip> once you have your point motors in the correct position then add the four supplied screws .... Remember not to over tighten these screws as this could pull the motor out of shape and affect the operation of the Cobalt. <Snip>
Actually tightening the screws more than needed will not twist the case as its very, very solid, but it will make them noisier as it will negate the value of the foam pad.
As a tip, if you add a little sealer, varnish or paint to the bottom face of the board where you are putting the motor, you can actually totally remove the screws or at least slacken them right off later, lowering noise transmission.
I look forward to seeing your video!
regards Richard
A helpful post - but one small comment if I could please.
QUOTE (Anthony566 @ 30 Apr 2017, 02:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><Snip> once you have your point motors in the correct position then add the four supplied screws .... Remember not to over tighten these screws as this could pull the motor out of shape and affect the operation of the Cobalt. <Snip>
Actually tightening the screws more than needed will not twist the case as its very, very solid, but it will make them noisier as it will negate the value of the foam pad.
As a tip, if you add a little sealer, varnish or paint to the bottom face of the board where you are putting the motor, you can actually totally remove the screws or at least slacken them right off later, lowering noise transmission.
I look forward to seeing your video!
regards Richard
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
I decided to treat myself to a new class 67 with TTS sound to see what they are like and as they are only £100 atm i thought that was a good price ..
Very nice livery and a nice heavy loco ... i do have a few of the class 67's in EWS and DB livery and i do like them.
The sound on the loco is not bad at all im quite impressed if anything i think its just a little high pitch so maybe a base reflex speaker might help im not sure as the unfortunate problem is the loco does not run at all .... so its being replaced all fuss free by the supplier so no issues with that.
But in short TTS sound is very good for the price and i do recommend it.
Very nice livery and a nice heavy loco ... i do have a few of the class 67's in EWS and DB livery and i do like them.
The sound on the loco is not bad at all im quite impressed if anything i think its just a little high pitch so maybe a base reflex speaker might help im not sure as the unfortunate problem is the loco does not run at all .... so its being replaced all fuss free by the supplier so no issues with that.
But in short TTS sound is very good for the price and i do recommend it.
Joined
·
649 Posts
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 30 Apr 2017, 19:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>As a tip, if you add a little sealer, varnish or paint to the bottom face of the board where you are putting the motor, you can actually totally remove the screws or at least slacken them right off later, lowering noise transmission.
regards Richard
That sounds excellent. I have some Cobalt digitals to add and following my excellent planning and track laying
![]()
(not) I find two point motors up against baseboard supports so getting all 4 screws in is not possible. To be able to use the foam pad and maybe 2 screws would be great.
regards Richard
That sounds excellent. I have some Cobalt digitals to add and following my excellent planning and track laying
For £100 that could be a body swap job and sell one of the older generation 67s I have on the Bay...I did that with the Hornby RR Class 40s that came out and retrofitted the Lima superdetailed bodies I had. All DCC Sound fitted with sugar cubes. Thanks for posting.
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
QUOTE (reddo @ 1 May 2017, 06:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>For £100 that could be a body swap job and sell one of the older generation 67s I have on the Bay...I did that with the Hornby RR Class 40s that came out and retrofitted the Lima superdetailed bodies I had. All DCC Sound fitted with sugar cubes. Thanks for posting.
That was the plan ... i was going to add the sound to one of the 67's i already have.
That was the plan ... i was going to add the sound to one of the 67's i already have.
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
Really sady news for my layout ....
We have decided that we are going to move withing the next 18 months and when i started down the model rail road i didn't really give any thought to moving my layout so its really over engineered and permanently fix to the garage wall so rather than continue any further i am going to spend the next few months taking it apart as best i can and reduce my extensive collection as it has grown out of control eg i have 10 hornby class 43 ( 125 ) loco packs with full coach rakes !!!!! And more the 100 locos ...... It has become a bit of an obsession
![]()
On the up side this will give me time to think about what comes next depending on what kind of house we end up moving to.
A really big thank you to everyone who has give me support over the years i couldn't have got this far without that help.
We have decided that we are going to move withing the next 18 months and when i started down the model rail road i didn't really give any thought to moving my layout so its really over engineered and permanently fix to the garage wall so rather than continue any further i am going to spend the next few months taking it apart as best i can and reduce my extensive collection as it has grown out of control eg i have 10 hornby class 43 ( 125 ) loco packs with full coach rakes !!!!! And more the 100 locos ...... It has become a bit of an obsession
On the up side this will give me time to think about what comes next depending on what kind of house we end up moving to.
A really big thank you to everyone who has give me support over the years i couldn't have got this far without that help.
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
*** Wow. I am really sorry to hear about the Layout... I have enjoyed watching your progress.
Life has many changes though so hopefully, overall, your move will be positive for all and the move to a new place will bring new inspiration for the next generation of your layout.
Think before you swing a hammer... there may be lots you can save - and don't be a stranger here because of the change, as your contributions and insights are always interesting.
Kind regards, Richard
Life has many changes though so hopefully, overall, your move will be positive for all and the move to a new place will bring new inspiration for the next generation of your layout.
Think before you swing a hammer... there may be lots you can save - and don't be a stranger here because of the change, as your contributions and insights are always interesting.
Kind regards, Richard
Joined
·
6,372 Posts
Sorry to hear you have a dismantlement issue Anthony, hope you can get up and running once more, I shipped mine home from Oman but had to make it fit a different space but at least you'll get a chance I hope at more space for more trains!
Joined
·
57 Posts
Sorry to read your news "Kristopher 1805" your posts have been such a pleasure and inspiration. Still the best of luck with your house move.
Anthony - TBH sounds like you have some time on your side, and in consideration of your construction skills, I think you will be able to dismantle it very carefully indeed eg cut rails at key locations etc.
Re your collected stock, I would hold fire ie just pack everything up and see whet eventuates as you may have the opportunity to leverage on what you have and build some amazing storage (whether vertical or traditional)
Best bet is to see what house turns up - time to start watching episodes of Escape to the Country for ideas/what's out there...
I have a similar situation brewing with the building of a new garage; option will be to relocate the railway or move all the model cars display and extend the MR into the freed up space.
All sounds pretty exciting - take your time...Cheers
Re your collected stock, I would hold fire ie just pack everything up and see whet eventuates as you may have the opportunity to leverage on what you have and build some amazing storage (whether vertical or traditional)
Best bet is to see what house turns up - time to start watching episodes of Escape to the Country for ideas/what's out there...
I have a similar situation brewing with the building of a new garage; option will be to relocate the railway or move all the model cars display and extend the MR into the freed up space.
All sounds pretty exciting - take your time...Cheers
Joined
·
2,155 Posts
I have started to remove my layout but will leave the single section that has scenery on it in case whoever buys the house wants it as its not going to be in the way in the garage.
If anyone has seen anything in this post that they would like to buy then please contact me via PM as almost everything will need to go.
Thanks for all the feedback and comments on this build over the years it really did help me move along even though very slowly
![]()
If anyone has seen anything in this post that they would like to buy then please contact me via PM as almost everything will need to go.
Thanks for all the feedback and comments on this build over the years it really did help me move along even though very slowly
841 - 860 of 861 Posts
Join the discussion
