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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (upnick @ 24 Jul 2008, 21:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>After looking at your drawing you are using a tender drive via a worm gear to the drive wheels of the loco, i would have thought a better way would to have the loco driving wheels powered as around curves it could cause drive issues binding in certain spots possibly ?
I thought about that but it causes to many problems trying to fit the motor under the boiler. I'm sure that as long as the two sections of the drive shaft are spaced far enough apart in the rubber sleeve i'm thinking of using to connect them and there weighed down enough, it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
QUOTE (upnick @ 24 Jul 2008, 21:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>After looking at your drawing you are using a tender drive via a worm gear to the drive wheels of the loco, i would have thought a better way would to have the loco driving wheels powered as around curves it could cause drive issues binding in certain spots possibly ?
I thought about that but it causes to many problems trying to fit the motor under the boiler. I'm sure that as long as the two sections of the drive shaft are spaced far enough apart in the rubber sleeve i'm thinking of using to connect them and there weighed down enough, it should work.
 

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Thanks for the info. The reason why I'm using the double frame is because I have a bachman 08 diesel shunter with that wheel design and since having it I've always wanted to build a victorian styled loco with outside frames.

The reason for the tender motor is because i tried to fit it in the front but it was too big so I dicided to move it into the tender but kept it driven in the front to give the loco enough traction.

The locos you have suggested are very nice designs, I may look into building something like those in the future.

Regarding the motor and driveshaft design. I'm only using the motor from the hornby 0-4-0 and its worm gear, possibly also the cog if needed. I was planning to use a rubber sleeve/ tubing to connect the loco and tender drive shafts, a simplistic form of the universal joint and both shafts will be fixed in place to prevent them flexing except at the joint, in the bends.

I will take into consideration the idea of mounting the motor to the front end while its still in the tender but that may just complicate it. The idea of mounting the driveshaft below the footplate I will try if the gears can go low enough.

If i can find all the parts i need to make it work I'll post a more detailed drawing showing the layout of the motor design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 26 Jul 2008, 15:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>***It will work just fine - I'm close to completing several Midland 4F's with exactly that drive system - fine music wire as a driveshaft inset into pure silicone tube. Keep the centre of gravity low and the loco will work well and if you fill the body with lead, it'll pull well also.

Richard
DCCconcepts
Which one would work fine? the method I'm planning on using or the method you suggested?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've done some basic measuring and it looks like the driveshaft will be just above the footplate. I've though of a few ideas about what to do with the exposed driveshaft and would like your opinions on which is best or if you have another idea.

Leave it exposed but paint it black to camoflage it

Raise the level of the cab and tender footplate above the driveshaft

Build loco with fully enclosed cab like seen on blanche from the ffestiniog railway, if this design was used on coal fired locos
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll consider the gear step down method for the driveshaft if I can find enough gears to do so.

You brought up how I would collect power from the track to motor. The only methods I can think of will be using one of hornbys methods, running a wire from the loco to the tender. The other is from what I saw on my American Old Timer 4-4-0, collecting power from the tender wheels. The later seems the best option at moment.

I was informed to use silicon tubing for the connection between the two driveshafts, but I don't know where to find it. Does anyone know what type of stores sell silicon tubing small enough "about 1mm inner diameter"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 29 Jul 2008, 14:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>**Actually if you close couple engine and tender and use a music wire driveshaft its pretty well invisible anyway, so above the footplate is OK if thats a lot easier for you..

As stated earlier in this thread, the silicone tube is model aircraft fuel line - you should be able to buy it at any hobby shop that sells R/C aircraft I'd think...thats where I get mine anyway.

Richard
DCCconcepts
thanks for that really appreciate that, I know of a couple of places not far away that may sell RC aircraft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 29 Jul 2008, 15:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>**Actually if you close couple engine and tender and use a music wire driveshaft its pretty well invisible anyway, so above the footplate is OK if thats a lot easier for you..

As stated earlier in this thread, the silicone tube is model aircraft fuel line - you should be able to buy it at any hobby shop that sells R/C aircraft I'd think...thats where I get mine anyway.

Richard
DCCconcepts
Hi Richard, thank you for your advice about trying a store that sells r/c aircraft. I found a store that sells r/c aircraft and got some fuel line tubing. its not as tight as i might have hoped but im sure with some superglue it may secure it well enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Here are pictures of my current progress of the double frame 0-6-0 tender loco.

pic 1
pic 2
pic 3
pic 4

I was wondering thought whether to arch the running plate just above the siderods when there at the 12 o'clock position like I've seen on other locos such as this midland railway 158a.

would appreciate any of your opinions.
 
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