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Hornby suggest that you insert these pins into their points when converting to DCC as these R8232 Hornby DCC Electric Point Clips bridge the insulating part of the point and send electric up both forks. No need for wiring at this stage:-



Alternatively Hornby do this track link wire pack R8201 to help you to jump power from one section of track to the next:-



See this picture to see how the point clips can help to simplify things:-



Now this information does seem to counter Dougs info where it is suggested you isolate sections. Hornby instruct otherwise and their whole circuit is live with no isolated sections. Hornby don't suggest the use of those wires with their digital set up and the use of the pins is considered sufficient. Hornby do provide instructions about how to wire up a seperate progaramming track that is isolated from the main circuit. At this stage it may be best to keep it simple and go with the Hornby way of doing things as you can always get help from Hornby customer service if you follow their isntructions. Now I don't know how all this impacts on the use of decoders which was the original starting point of the topic and it may be that if you are using non Hornby decoders you may have to follow some of the suggestions made that are not in the Hornby way of keeping it simple.

To me it makes sense to go with the instructions provided by Hornby if you are starting off digital life by operating with Hornby digital. If you want to then take it a step further and go beyond the simple set up that Hornby suggest then thats when further info will be required.

Now I am absolutely not sure what the impact of running non Hornby decoders is on all this and some of the safeguards suggested may need to be followed however it is starting to make DCC seem more complex and this surely is not the intention. I don't know what the answer is here as wiring diagrams can look offputting to the uninitiated. Even simple ones!

Nearly all first time users of Hornby digital will plug and go which if you follow Hornby's instructions, even with 3 ovals, you can do. The Hornby digital demo layout at the Warley show had no wiring underneath and one power connection and that had several tail chaser trains running on different ovals.

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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QUOTE The points are live electro-frog points and with those, you have to isolate the frog rails. You have to also provide power behind the isolated frog rails

Agreed that you have to isolate the frog rails when electro-frog points are used. I don't recall any mention by anybody of Electro-frog points in this thread though.

Are Electro-frog points being used by those making the enquiry?


Happy modelling
Gary
 

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If standard Hornby points are being used then one power clip on the outside oval and the Hornby spring clips mentioned above inserted into all the Hornby points should be all you need to electrify the whole layout for Hornby digital. Thats what Hornby seem to say anyway. You should remove all the power clips you currently have and insert the special Hornby digital power clip on the outside oval. This is designed to take the constant load of DCC power of the 4 amp power supply and does not have any capacitor fitted. Make sure all your fishplates are tight and that all points have a good electrical contact.

How many Hornby points do you have and do you have any areas currently isolated for standard DC?


And do you only have Hornby points?


If the answers is only Hornby points, not more than say 10 or 12 and no isolated sections then to be very honest I would try out what Hornby say initially and if that works for you then fantastic. Ok the Select power pack is 1 amp and this can limit you to have 3 locos moving at a time. You can always upgrade to the 4 amp power pack if you want to have up to 10 locos moving at a time.

If you want to get a soldering iron out to hard wire things then this will definitely improve the flow of current around the track and this can be done after the above if need be.

In terms of a small layout thats completely Hornby its best to stick with what Hornby say using the appropriate Hornby bits and bobs. Just remember that power is on 100% of the time throughout the entire layout which is a little different to normal DC operations.

If you find you have a hiccup then come back.

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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QUOTE Sorry, im new to all this electrical jargon; what do you mean by 'isolated for standard DC'?

Sorry to use jargon. Don't worry about it. If you had done it you would know what it was so clearly you haven't.

You might have a section of track that you can switch the power on and off to that is not electrically linked to the rest of the layout. I don't think you have from what you are saying.

Happy modelling
Gary
 

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Now that could not be any easier. All those thinking of a Hornby digital Xmas should commit the schematic below to memory. Hornby should pop Doug's diagram on their website! Keep that for future reference Doug as it may be needed again:-



Has the decoder question that started this off been answered?

Happy modelling
Gary
 
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