o gauge points
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
Try this website. It's a program for printing out templates for building points. From what I remember, there's plenty to read and give you a flavour of what's involved.
David
David
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
Thanks for that link,ive browsed through it and put it in my favourites box for further reference. I knew it would be a tricky task but I shall give it a go, im a time served engineer but cat d9s and 16g motor graders are somewhat different than this, ive made a basic start on it already.
Dear Frame69,
I have made O Gauge points in the past by buying the rail and copper clad sleepers. Having returned to modelling and seeing the price of the sleepers I thought I might try some other method.
I cut some card sleepers and glued some rail to them with super glue, just a short length, then prised it apart. I was surprised to see that the glue soaks into the card and its quite difficult to get off I had to resort to scraping and emery cloth to get the rail clean again.
The deciding factor in order to make a layout like this was has got to be a point, if that would not work then it was pointless (the layout as well
Here's a pic of the completed point;
![]()
This point is 28" radius, fine for a small 4 wheeled coach and for short 0-6-0 locos. I drew it with a trammel, a drill in one end a pencil in the other. I scanned the drawing printed it, stuck it to the baseboard and made the point on top.
The rails were electrically connected by bits of thin wire, the frog switch is a loop of thicker wire switched by the point blades, it works well, I'm pleased to say.
Jim
I have made O Gauge points in the past by buying the rail and copper clad sleepers. Having returned to modelling and seeing the price of the sleepers I thought I might try some other method.
I cut some card sleepers and glued some rail to them with super glue, just a short length, then prised it apart. I was surprised to see that the glue soaks into the card and its quite difficult to get off I had to resort to scraping and emery cloth to get the rail clean again.
The deciding factor in order to make a layout like this was has got to be a point, if that would not work then it was pointless (the layout as well
Here's a pic of the completed point;
This point is 28" radius, fine for a small 4 wheeled coach and for short 0-6-0 locos. I drew it with a trammel, a drill in one end a pencil in the other. I scanned the drawing printed it, stuck it to the baseboard and made the point on top.
The rails were electrically connected by bits of thin wire, the frog switch is a loop of thicker wire switched by the point blades, it works well, I'm pleased to say.
Jim
http://www.finescale.org.uk/show_page.php?...c84ca4fdd88c3aa
above is a list of templates from C&L finescale.
chose your gauge/scale.
note that the major issues surrounding P&C work lies with check gauges and flangeway widths.
This is where wheelset dimensions also come into play.
a simpler method is to create a stub turnout.
BTW, Templot is a terrific tool, but it costs in excess of £40, isn't a 'planner' tool as such....but great for creating track templates, even directly off Ordnance Survey maps!
above is a list of templates from C&L finescale.
chose your gauge/scale.
note that the major issues surrounding P&C work lies with check gauges and flangeway widths.
This is where wheelset dimensions also come into play.
a simpler method is to create a stub turnout.
BTW, Templot is a terrific tool, but it costs in excess of £40, isn't a 'planner' tool as such....but great for creating track templates, even directly off Ordnance Survey maps!
QUOTE (dwb @ 20 Jan 2009, 23:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Try this website. It's a program for printing out templates for building points. From what I remember, there's plenty to read and give you a flavour of what's involved.
David
I use Templot it is a awsome tool but it isnt something simple you can go & use straight away because it isnt a easy tool. But with the help of the tutorials & the templot forum you pick it up & when you do wow what a program.
David
I use Templot it is a awsome tool but it isnt something simple you can go & use straight away because it isnt a easy tool. But with the help of the tutorials & the templot forum you pick it up & when you do wow what a program.
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
Thanks for the info gents but it seems a bit compicated for a moment so I've made a dummy set just for visual purposes. Making my own was an option after I saw the prices but as its only a little project at present it will have to wait but I will keep this info in my favourites for future reference, thanks again.
jimreads card sleepers sound a great idea .soak them in Ronseal wood hardener and it will probably last forever .I soaked some rotten wood in it and put it in the garden to see what happened .Its still there and hasnt altered in 20 years..Strong stuff .I also soaked a wooden Labelle interrurban in it and its solid like plastic now .Didnt Wrenn make card/fibre track at one time in 00.I seem to recall it had a far better sleeper spacing than Peco.
Dear Frame69,
You would be very welcome to the drawing I made and I would make a close up pic of a point for you so that you could see how they are made.
Dear Rossi,
Shellac has the same effect as does PVA glue when laying ballast I changed my mind about my layout and am now making a 3 way point plus 1 LH and 1 RH to make a crosover between 3 tracks, I had to scrape up the track I'd previously stuck down and ballasted, it was tough
Jim
You would be very welcome to the drawing I made and I would make a close up pic of a point for you so that you could see how they are made.
Dear Rossi,
Shellac has the same effect as does PVA glue when laying ballast I changed my mind about my layout and am now making a 3 way point plus 1 LH and 1 RH to make a crosover between 3 tracks, I had to scrape up the track I'd previously stuck down and ballasted, it was tough
Jim
QUOTE .Didnt Wrenn make card/fibre track at one time in 00.I seem to recall it had a far better sleeper spacing than Peco.
well...no it didn't, really.
the sleepers were incredibly wide..the rail was more like code 1000...would have done nicely for O gauge.....and hte fibre bases de-laminated quickly if wet....also very hard to curve...block and tackle stuff.
not the favourite fibre base trackage...GEM was better.....peco also did fibre-based , spiked trackage.....
Wrenn trackage also had some quite unprototypical pointwork...didn't have a crossing as such if I remember rightly.....the whole point blade and crossing pivotted, so when the blade end contacted the stockrail, the other end which included the wing rail, closed up on the crossing vee.....a bit like a prototype diamond crossing whose angle is so shallow, it has a switched crossing, since otherwise the gap between vee and point rail would be too large. [yep, there is a max crossing angle before a swithced crossing is used]
I,too, like jimread's card sleeper track...why not? I have left sheets of cheapo thin ply [packing case] outsdie for months.....just to get the veneers to separate...nice and thin...but a booger to cut neatly.....card seems better.....less domestic grief about mouldy old wood that needs binning?
If one happens into an office...check out old redundant file cards...bit like postcard,and no-one wants it.....
well...no it didn't, really.
the sleepers were incredibly wide..the rail was more like code 1000...would have done nicely for O gauge.....and hte fibre bases de-laminated quickly if wet....also very hard to curve...block and tackle stuff.
not the favourite fibre base trackage...GEM was better.....peco also did fibre-based , spiked trackage.....
Wrenn trackage also had some quite unprototypical pointwork...didn't have a crossing as such if I remember rightly.....the whole point blade and crossing pivotted, so when the blade end contacted the stockrail, the other end which included the wing rail, closed up on the crossing vee.....a bit like a prototype diamond crossing whose angle is so shallow, it has a switched crossing, since otherwise the gap between vee and point rail would be too large. [yep, there is a max crossing angle before a swithced crossing is used]
I,too, like jimread's card sleeper track...why not? I have left sheets of cheapo thin ply [packing case] outsdie for months.....just to get the veneers to separate...nice and thin...but a booger to cut neatly.....card seems better.....less domestic grief about mouldy old wood that needs binning?
If one happens into an office...check out old redundant file cards...bit like postcard,and no-one wants it.....
frame69...is that O gauge trackage, really peco streamline OO flextrack, cut in half and glued down further apart?
the weeds down the middle look suspicious.
[I bought some cheapo steel OO flex track, code 100, to recycle into O gauge trackage, as I have a LIma 4 wheel diesel with the cab cut down to resemble a German Kof 11....and 2 or 3 ex-ebay continental wagons to shuffle about......3 link couplers, but can't change the wheelsets.....one is a Pola Maxi, and it's axles are like welding rods.]
the weeds down the middle look suspicious.
[I bought some cheapo steel OO flex track, code 100, to recycle into O gauge trackage, as I have a LIma 4 wheel diesel with the cab cut down to resemble a German Kof 11....and 2 or 3 ex-ebay continental wagons to shuffle about......3 link couplers, but can't change the wheelsets.....one is a Pola Maxi, and it's axles are like welding rods.]
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
QUOTE (jimread @ 1 Feb 2009, 23:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Dear Frame69,
You would be very welcome to the drawing I made and I would make a close up pic of a point for you so that you could see how they are made.
Dear Rossi,
Shellac has the same effect as does PVA glue when laying ballast I changed my mind about my layout and am now making a 3 way point plus 1 LH and 1 RH to make a crosover between 3 tracks, I had to scrape up the track I'd previously stuck down and ballasted, it was tough
Jim
Thanks Jim and yes I would be very gratefull for this drawing as the points would be much better if they worked
![]()
You would be very welcome to the drawing I made and I would make a close up pic of a point for you so that you could see how they are made.
Dear Rossi,
Shellac has the same effect as does PVA glue when laying ballast I changed my mind about my layout and am now making a 3 way point plus 1 LH and 1 RH to make a crosover between 3 tracks, I had to scrape up the track I'd previously stuck down and ballasted, it was tough
Jim
Thanks Jim and yes I would be very gratefull for this drawing as the points would be much better if they worked
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
QUOTE (alastairq @ 1 Feb 2009, 23:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>frame69...is that O gauge trackage, really peco streamline OO flextrack, cut in half and glued down further apart?
the weeds down the middle look suspicious.
Yes Alastairq, it is oo track,I was given a carrier bag full at Lostwithiel toy fair which was not good enough to use on my main layout so was saved for little projects such as this. When I lay the track on the second board I will fabricate some fake sleepers.
[I bought some cheapo steel OO flex track, code 100, to recycle into O gauge trackage, as I have a LIma 4 wheel diesel with the cab cut down to resemble a German Kof 11....and 2 or 3 ex-ebay continental wagons to shuffle about......3 link couplers, but can't change the wheelsets.....one is a Pola Maxi, and it's axles are like welding rods.]
the weeds down the middle look suspicious.
Yes Alastairq, it is oo track,I was given a carrier bag full at Lostwithiel toy fair which was not good enough to use on my main layout so was saved for little projects such as this. When I lay the track on the second board I will fabricate some fake sleepers.
[I bought some cheapo steel OO flex track, code 100, to recycle into O gauge trackage, as I have a LIma 4 wheel diesel with the cab cut down to resemble a German Kof 11....and 2 or 3 ex-ebay continental wagons to shuffle about......3 link couplers, but can't change the wheelsets.....one is a Pola Maxi, and it's axles are like welding rods.]
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
Also because this project is merely a learning curve Im going to construct a small,powered tuntable just big enough to accept my shunter. I have ideas of using bits and pieces from some old dvd players,motors etc...I have been using old mobile phone chargers for small sources of power for projects,they are good for lighting and can be wired straight in to the board as they are low power,3.2v-4.8v-5.7v etc..This small layout is going to represent a small industrial scene from E C L P where I was based as a Caterpiller engineer for several years. (cornish clay pits for those of you not familiar) On my layout I have class 37 William Cookworthy, W C was founder of the china clay industry Im told.
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
I've got my ex-wife helping in the restuarant plus waitresses, I'll try and get the owner to do some work this year
![]()
.Being self employed gives you the urge to do a little bit extra I think
![]()
Sometimes I think I've taken on to much but then remember that its a hobby and no pressure to finish anything so Im realy enjoying it, spent the last ten years going in the same bar
![]()
same faces.
Sometimes I think I've taken on to much but then remember that its a hobby and no pressure to finish anything so Im realy enjoying it, spent the last ten years going in the same bar
Joined
·
2,578 Posts
Being self employed myself I know where you are coming from. Unfortuanatly for me My busy time is Sept to June so the missus insists we "go away" in the summer and the rest of the year Im busy building my empire! That being said the work rate has really gone south this year so Im finding time to indulge myself that I wouldnt usually have
Steve
Every cloud has a silver lining!
Steve
Every cloud has a silver lining!
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!