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37074 Jubilee LMS 5687
37041 Type 4 Green D100
37090 GWR Mogul 5322
37087 Warship green D825
37057 Reb Scott BR Gn 46100

You certianly have an aged fleet of Loco's, some must nearly older than me, and I'm on pension !


Lets start with the Loco's I'm familar with I'm sure some else will fill in the rest:
Jubilee
Mogul
Scot
are all split frame chassis. In order to fit a decoder in these loco's you need to remove the chassis from the body and strip it down to it's component parts. This isnt as difficult as it sounds, and can easily be accomplished by an experienced installer or by yourself if you prepared to give it a go. Do you want detailed instructions on how to tackle the split frame ? Of these the GWR Mogul is the easiest.
I don't know the Type 4 or the Warship but if their anything like the Bachmann Warship these two will be the most staight forward to the batch.
Hornby
R760A Class 2721 Pannier tank No.2783
R830 Saint Class 'St David' No. 2920 tender drive
R2019 Saint Class 'St Patrick' No. 2927 tender drive
R759 Hall Class 'Crumlin Hall' No. 4916 tender drive
R2431 Industrial No. 101 loco drive
R351 Thomas the Tank Engine (grandson's !) loco drive

Dapol
Castle Class 'Neath Abbey' No. 5090 ringfield loco drive
Class 1400 Tank No. 1466 (Airfix body) split frame ?

Mainline
54156 2301 Class Dean Goods No. 2516 tender drive
37090 4300 Class Mogul No. 5322 split frame

With the tender drive loco's espicially the earlier ones, current is conducted through the frame of the motor and transfered to the motor terminal via the left hand self tapping terminal screw as it bottoms in the motor housing. It is vital you ensure this terminal is fully isolated either replace the screw with a nylon one, or use fibre or plactic washers to ensure it does not bottom and conduct power which will blow you decoder. always check with a continuity meter before programming and testing.
http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html
will get you basic instructions.
My experience with tender drives is they can be difficult to tune to get the best out of them. Try to obtain a decoder with B-Emf for best results.
If you want further help post here.
 

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You might find the older mainline stuff has a different motor to the Buhler can motor now fitted by Bachmann. I've only done one of these which was a pannier tank as I recall it had a semi-open motor, but the principles are the same.

Re the GWR Mogul. This is easier because the motion comes out as one piece. With Walschaerts valve gear you have to remove the circlip on the centre driver.
1. Remove the the chassis from the body normally a small screw either end of the chassis.
2. Remove the base plate, and remove the wheels and motion as one piece.
3. Remove the screws from the chassis side tapping our the insulation pins in the pocess, make sure you retian the spacers that fit on the pins. You may need to lever the chassis apart with a screw driver at the same time this varies from chassis to chassis.
Remove the motor, and the pinion gear from the chassis. Remove and disgard the tiny brass srings that make contact with the motor to chassis.
Re-assembly.
At this point do a dummy run with the chassis and the decoder to make sure the decoder will fit inside. If not the chassis is easy to cut with a junior hack saw, see my web page. http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html
Make sure the wires from the motor to the decoder will not become trapped by the chassis 1/2's in the past I have often cut a small channel for these with a dremel.
Fit a short piece of shrink tube to the ornage and grey wires of the drcoder and then solder these wires to the motor terminals and then shrink the tube to the terminals using a little heat (from a lighter). to be continued .......next
 

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continued.................
Now reassembly. Take a rose and lightly chamfer the location holes of the insulation pins this really helps getting the chassis 1/2's together. With two clean chassis 1/2's repostion the gear lightly lubricate the boss (I use Woodlands white grease) it's similar to La Belle. (also a white grease). Postion the motor ensuring a good mesh with the gear. insert the insulation pins ensuring the spacers are in place, and then gently fit the remaining 1/2 of the chassis. Once together then insert and tighten the screws. The red and black wires of the decoder are soldered to small pices of copper clad board and each pole wedged into the space between the chassis 1/2's ensuring it collects power from one side only. CHECK this with a continuity meter. Alternatives are drill and tap two holes to collect current, wrap the wires around the pin and the screw to collect current, or drilling one small hole either side of the chassis on the top and trapping the wire in there with a pin. Refit the motion, it only fits one way so you can't go wrong,
once you happy fit the base plate. Then the body, and then program. I always preprogram my decoders using a LoysToys decoder tester this saves me time and I have the knowledge that the decoder is good before I start.
I hope this has been of use to you, and others who need to tackle the split frame chassis.
MMD
 

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For the tender drives some people use the nylon screws from Kadee who I suppose they force into the self tapped hole. I have always used thick nylon washers that I got from an electrical compoent dealer. BTW I did have a single tender drive on my layout. All were converted to loco drive. I don't like traction tyres or tender drives. The newer plastic motor is probably the best of the bunch and the easiest to do installations to as you dont need ti insulate. dont forget to throw the tv suppression in the bin.
 

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Modern UK Bachmann run with skew wound 3 pole motors. I actually like their motor it's got plenty of guts. Your best bet for older loco's to try different decoders, some just don't work well with older stock. You quite definately want B-emf, and you need to be able to play with the settings on the CV's. My personal pet hate is the Hornby Ringfield
motor and tender drive. The lack of torque with this motor, it's sloppy construction,
and in the earlier days lack of pickups caused me no end of frustration. To the point I swore just before the introduction of the Merchant Navy I would never buy Hornby again. We have much to be pleased with on Hornby's current crop of newer models.

Many kit built models with open frame motors, suffer a multiude of shorts, for this use super glue as an insulating coating it works a treat. Where current is collected through the wheels on one pole, redicial steps need to be taken to ensure the motor is fully insulated. On future kits buy insulated drivers they work much better with DCC. If your loco ran poorly on DC, be sure it will run much worse on DCC. DCC is highly selective about what works. " well laid track, sweet running loco's, plenty of track feeds, and a well engineered track bus". In some instances I've taken commercial chassis, and fitted them into kit built loco's. I have two of the sweetist S&D7F's under DJH bodies, running with sound, thanks to the 8F chassis, this does need a few modifications, but the result is highly pleasing. I have a Hornby Patriot with a Bachmann split frame chassis fitted, and sound in the tender, looks good runs particuarly well, and I'm happy. You just have to work round each loco to find the best solution, as they say one at a time.
 

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Back-emf:

normally the cheaper decoders do not have B-EMF. This can be summarised as load /speed compensation. IE. The decoder adjusts voltage as load increases IE with a gradient. B-emf decoders are recommended for ringfield or similar motors.
I tend to stick with one decoder, and I have a preference for TCS decoders. TCS M1 or or more recently the MC2 are well suited to UK outline steam because of their small size. They have a goof proof warrently, they have a wrapper around them, they do not overheat, they have superb low speed running, they have more than 1amp peak loading. I normally have 20 - 25 decoders in stock, most of them are TCS decoders although their are a few sound decoders sat in the box as well. Lenz & Digitrax both produce decoders with B-emf. Why do I stick to one decoder ? well you get to know the characteristics well, and so setting up the decoder becomes very easy. I think it's a good habit to get into keeping notes of your settings.

I'm currenlty contemplating selling most of my UK stock and switching to American.
So watch out on Ebay !
I will continue to install decoders and sell the loco's on Ebay.

BTW another book I would recommend for ANY DCC user is:

this book is an intensive general guide to DCC and is highly recommended.
 
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