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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here Are some of my current projects.

Southeastern Finecast Decapod.



Djh Big Bertha.





An allmost finished DJH Standard 4 Tank Engine.



Pete
 

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Nice neat work Peter. I like the Decapod.
Did you solder the main parts or use glue. I am just making the GEM Midland Compund. I find I can solder the main structure with electrical solder and will probabley glue the detail parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All soldered unless you are using mek pack glue on plastic I find that trying to glue metal to plastic or metal to metal what ever glue you use will give up at some point, so I find it easyer to solder things if I can its more relyable.

Pete
 

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Wow, the standard 4...
Its beautiful. I wish i could kit-build (You're looking at a person who failed Airfix)
 

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Big Bertha is more my type.
Is that called high gloss paint or Super high gloss paint !
I still fancy it after it's been in the mud. You got to make them tatty !
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well MMD I have to line big bertha when I have some time thats why its in gloss at the mo then satin varnish it then I will weather when they are done as I have a few others to weather as well.
Both Big Bertha and the S4T were painted in acrilic gloss black (plasetcote airasole) paint and then the S4T was given 1 coat of Railmatch Satin Varnish after the decals had been applied.

Pete
 

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Lovely work Peter. I think I'll have to get a decapod. It looks like a most interesting loco. I was hoping to show off my class 4MT 2-6-0 but other things got the better of me then christmas came and well you can guess the rest. Now I'm in a new home and I have to build a new work bench.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (Peter_Harvey @ 7 Jan 2007, 03:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Here Are some of my current projects.

Southeastern Finecast Decapod.



Djh Big Bertha.





An allmost finished DJH Standard 4 Tank Engine.



Pete
 

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Anzac, I wouldn't try use electrical solder on white metal or even brass. Too much heat generated that'll melt whitemetal but it'll do the opposite with brass. Brass will act as huge heat sink pulling the heat away from area you are trying to solder. The result will be a cold joint that has no strength and the brass may distort with the extra heat you need to get the solder to flow. I use 70 degree solder on white metal and 145degee solder on brass with Carr's red and green fluxes. An excellent helper is Tony Wright's "Right Track" dvd's on loco construction.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (Anzac @ 7 Jan 2007, 09:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nice neat work Peter. I like the Decapod.
Did you solder the main parts or use glue. I am just making the GEM Midland Compund. I find I can solder the main structure with electrical solder and will probabley glue the detail parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The Decapod is produced by South Eastern Fincast Models link below:

Its a nice kit SEF can supply the wheels I got the gear box from Branchlines which had an extension on it which makes a big difference, I will say leave the conrods solid.
If made carefuly you can make it go around No2 radius curves with no problem mine dose.

Pete

http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/

BRANCHLINES,
P.O. Box 31,
Exeter,
EX4 6NY,
England.

Tel: 01392 437755
Email: [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I marked out with a scale rule and a fine pencil first then placed the decals, start at the front vertical then work my way around, bottom next then the vertical by the cab then the top.

Pete
 

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I must say that your Big Bertha is absolutely gorgeous (makes me want one, and I don't even model the Midland Railway!)
 
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