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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of the the things I do dislike is painting the models I build. Usually I muddle through as most of the locs I paint are black be usually American steam or NSWGR steam. But since I switched back to British steam this means colours other than black. Well I picked up my new compressor at the week end and despite the foul conditions of rain and 15degrees C I decided to paint the tender of the BR/LNER A-2 I'm building. Now this kit was not the smooth sailing I normally expect from DJH. It has no bearings was the first clue. being an older kit all it has are holes in the frames which aren't terribly good as bearing surfaces. The motor /gearbox was delayed , seems Mashima are having trouble meeting the EU no lead policy in their motors and are slow filling orders. Then when I got the bearings and brass buffers and the motor/gearbox turned up I chuffed along putting it together.When I came to test running the chassis a small problem arose that of something smelling hot. Alas to late the motor made a rapid whirring sound and forward progress stopped. Upon investigation I discovered that the first turn of the plastic worm had split and destroyed the the second plastic gear and its pinnion. Somewaht dejected I emailed DJH and the lovely lady there said they would replace the parts asap. So I decided to press on and assemble the valve gear but alas no cross heads. Searched again and again but no cross heads. On to DJH again and again a prompt response parts on their way asap. Couldn't wish for better service.
But back to painting as construction was stalled pending arrival of parts I painted the tender.
You be the judge but I think it's far, far, far from BR Brunswick green, more like malachite green to me.
yeuch
Up close it looks worse
Loco and tender
Loco front end

But on a happier note the Comet rebuilt Royal Scot is a runner with a some more work to do on the pony truck as it's not a happy camper on curves.


Stanier 400gal tender looks nice in primer gray.

The SE Finecast 61XX I was building is having a heart transplant. The Branchline gearbox is a little noisy so I'm awaiting a Romford one. I think I'll paint this one black..

Ozzie21
 

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Ozzie

I have found a similar with a comet chassis I have fitted to a Mainline Scot body and I solved it by using a spring from a ball point pen cutting in half and using it to push the bogie onto the track it works quite well also add some weight to the bogie this on its own should help.

Pete
 

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Oooh
,

I don't know what colour that purports to be - but as sure as eggs is eggs ain't BR brunswick green. It looks quite like the SNCB green in the photo. What paint is it?

Regards

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It is Humbrol Brunswick Green. Yeh looking at SNCF or US Southern loco green is closer.
Stripping tomorrow.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (BRITHO @ 11 Jun 2007, 22:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Oooh
,

I don't know what colour that purports to be - but as sure as eggs is eggs ain't BR brunswick green. It looks quite like the SNCB green in the photo. What paint is it?

Regards

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Peter, I usually don't use springs but I may have to for this one.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (Peter_Harvey @ 11 Jun 2007, 21:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ozzie

I have found a similar with a comet chassis I have fitted to a Mainline Scot body and I solved it by using a spring from a ball point pen cutting in half and using it to push the bogie onto the track it works quite well also add some weight to the bogie this on its own should help.

Pete
 

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QUOTE (Ozzie21 @ 11 Jun 2007, 13:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>It is Humbrol Brunswick Green. Yeh looking at SNCF or US Southern loco green is closer.
Stripping tomorrow.

Ozzie21

Ozzie the standard Humbrol brunswick green definetely isn't the same as BR. The BR green had a much deeper "bronze" tone.

You could try Precision paints - if you can get them.

Regards

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks John. I got on to Pedromorgan and he suggested Phoenix paints so I'll have to find if anyone stocks them down here.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (BRITHO @ 11 Jun 2007, 22:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ozzie the standard Humbrol brunswick green definetely isn't the same as BR. The BR green had a much deeper "bronze" tone.

You could try Precision paints - if you can get them.

Regards

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well it has been a while since I added to this. As I was bored after I got home from work this morning I decided to fix up two little jobs, one the track painting is nearly complete. The other has been hanging about for well over a year now so I bit the bullet and got stuck in. American brass models were imported on the limited run scheme. Due to the supposed high quality of brass models and the fact that they were the only game in town if you wanted decent US steam they came in very small production runs, sometimes only 25 of a particular loco were made, and like many British kit locos, they covered locos that no RTR manufacturer would touch. Such is the case with my Chesapeake and Ohio Railway steam locos, most are brass and have been bought over the last twenty odd years sometimes at great expense. One thing the US importers were never concerned with was spare parts like wheels and when they wear out what do you do if you can't get repalcements. Well luckily I found some but when they arrived a couple of months back one part wouldn't fit. Most US models use screws to attach the side rods to the wheels similar to British RTR. But they come in a variety of guises, shapes and screw threads. As luck would have my original screws wouldn't fit and the supplied screws were to small and fell through the holes in the side rods. Ohhh what to do and there she stalled.................. till today.
A small light went off this morning as I was fitting some bushings to some conveyor belt idlers. I had some bushings at home that I had made up for another project that were never used and these were threaded to take a Romford crankpin. So with a little drilling, some light grinding and bit of soldering I got the job done and to top it off it actually works.


One J3 with new wheels and something else that needs painting.


Bachmann LMS Jubilee " Australia" In prototype form only 2 years seperate thes two locos.
The Jubilee was built in 1933 and the J3, the C&O called them Greenbriers, in 1935.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia
 

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Very nice Charles. The J3 is a pretty awesome piece of work. Seeing the two side by side really highlights how big some of those US locos were. Scale issues apart as this would only render the US loco even larger relative to the UK one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
neil, yes they were quite large in real term about 130ft long coupler to coupler, weighed in about 375t with roughly 68,300lbs of tractive effort. The poor old Jubliee had no chance.
The J3 ws a basket case when i got and had to put back together and then painted. The wheels were the last job and I think it's taken about two years to do those.
I don't know why I bought an LMS Jubilee as BR is my normal steam period. Ialso have an LNER Blue A4 so maybe I'll have to have a steam museum and run excursions.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia

QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 27 Oct 2008, 06:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Very nice Charles. The J3 is a pretty awesome piece of work. Seeing the two side by side really highlights how big some of those US locos were. Scale issues apart as this would only render the US loco even larger relative to the UK one.
 

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QUOTE (Ozzie21 @ 27 Oct 2008, 13:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>neil, yes they were quite large in real term about 130ft long coupler to coupler, weighed in about 375t with roughly 68,300lbs of tractive effort. The poor old Jubliee had no chance.
The J3 ws a basket case when i got and had to put back together and then painted. The wheels were the last job and I think it's taken about two years to do those.
I don't know why I bought an LMS Jubilee as BR is my normal steam period. Ialso have an LNER Blue A4 so maybe I'll have to have a steam museum and run excursions.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia
I bought the BR Jubilee but was very tempted by the LMS one. It was the paint job that attracted me. I usually go for BR green but I do like the LMS red.
 

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looking good.

its good to see a loco need reapiring because its been well used rather than a battered old "fix-me-up" thats seen better days.

we can tell its been really well looked after. out of interest where did the new wheels come from?
i have a friend that has a few tenshodo loco's of similar age and he seems to work wonders getting them to supply spare parts for them!

Peter
 

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I must say that J3 looks very impressive a nice looking loco aswell altough i only model british railways i can certainly see the attraction of wanting to run those beasts but i bet you need very generous curves!!. Perhaps you bought the jubilee as its name was "Australia". Still i am very biased as i model LMS and LNER steam. My grandfather worked at Shrewsbury railway station in England for the LMS.

Kind regards
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Peter, you should have seen it when I got it. Scenario: paint loco, harden paint by placing in oven, temperature? ohh 150C!!!!!!! solder melts quite quickly, paint burns off and brass tarnishes like you wouldn't belive. I got a cheap loco, traded it for some passenger cars and have had great fun putting it back together.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia

QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 27 Oct 2008, 17:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>looking good.

its good to see a loco need reapiring because its been well used rather than a battered old "fix-me-up" thats seen better days.

we can tell its been really well looked after. out of interest where did the new wheels come from?
i have a friend that has a few tenshodo loco's of similar age and he seems to work wonders getting them to supply spare parts for them!

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Paul, it'll go round a 36" radius curve but the cab overhang can be quite severe so i usually try for 44" radius on the main lines and 36" in yards and on branches.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia

QUOTE (madon37s @ 27 Oct 2008, 18:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I must say that J3 looks very impressive a nice looking loco aswell altough i only model british railways i can certainly see the attraction of wanting to run those beasts but i bet you need very generous curves!!. Perhaps you bought the jubilee as its name was "Australia". Still i am very biased as i model LMS and LNER steam. My grandfather worked at Shrewsbury railway station in England for the LMS.

Kind regards
Paul
 

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QUOTE (Ozzie21 @ 28 Oct 2008, 08:03) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Peter, you should have seen it when I got it. Scenario: paint loco, harden paint by placing in oven, temperature? ohh 150C!!!!!!! solder melts quite quickly, paint burns off and brass tarnishes like you wouldn't belive. I got a cheap loco, traded it for some passenger cars and have had great fun putting it back together.

he he! reminds me of the time i tried to warm the tires on my radio control car by putting it in the microwave!

those were the days.....

looks like you have done a really good job saving it though.

peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ahh you should see it's sister. $400 for a so called professional paint job. They didn't even use an undercoat or primer.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia

QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 29 Oct 2008, 17:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>he he! reminds me of the time i tried to warm the tires on my radio control car by putting it in the microwave!

those were the days.....

looks like you have done a really good job saving it though.

peter
 
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