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I was hoping someone may have come across this before, and know the best way forward.

I am building a DC kits model of 89001, and at the same time, repainting a Hornby CL82 DVT to match. The 89 was primed with Mr Resin, and then I airbrushed both with an undercoat of Humbrol light gray, so they would match. I then airbrushed Phoenix Precision GNER red, masked the red line off, and followed with GNER dark blue, built up over three or four coats.

For the lining, I used GNER red in a bow pen on clear transfer sheet, because I dont trust myself with a bow pen on the curves around the cab area of either model.

Transfers were from DC kits, with the warning flashes from Modelmaster. I used Microscale Microsol and Microset to help the decals bed down (and it was at this point, I relaised the "GNER" logo is a different size on 89001 compared to the DVT's... but that's life!)

Once that was done, I needed to clean up the models before I top coated with varish, and that's where my problem started.

89001 photo

I immersed the 82 in tepid warm soapy water to removed the marks the puddled decal soloutions had left on the dark blue paint, and as the it air dried, the surface took on a white bloom. I rinsed it again with water, thinking it was something to do with the soap, but it has remained.

89002 photo (2)

Knowing I had to clean it up somehow anyway, I took a chance on the 89, and went ahead and did exactly the same thing to it - but it came away unscathed.

89001 photo (3)

Thinking it might be the Microscale product, and needing a stronger cleaning agent, I carefully tried neat isopropyl alcohol. If I apply this to the surface, the bloom disappears - but as the alcohol evporates, the bloom returns.

Has anyone experienced this before, and if so, is there a way to salvage the DVT?

Cheers

SJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 17 Nov 2007, 14:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>How old was the humbrol paint? some of the last batches were a bit iffy.

I did it another way. i sprayed the whole thing blue and then used the fox transfers for the red stripe and GNER stuff.

I can understand why the alcohol dosent help but i dont understand why it happened in the first place. i dont htink it can be salvaged.

If you live near london i have some of the transfers for the wide red stripe that i can spare.

Peter

The humbrol tinlet was "fresh" - in as far as it might be fresh in a hobby store in Perth, Western Australia! But no, I think the undercoat is innocent, as the 89 is not affected.

Thanks for the offer on the red stripe - but as you can see, I'm a touch far away. If I can't salvage, I will strip and start again - and use the Fox GNER logos instead of the DC ones. And have the most expensive "observation car" in my collection!

Scott
 

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QUOTE (jukebox @ 17 Nov 2007, 19:05) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The humbrol tinlet was "fresh" - in as far as it might be fresh in a hobby store in Perth, Western Australia! But no, I think the undercoat is innocent, as the 89 is not affected.

Thanks for the offer on the red stripe - but as you can see, I'm a touch far away. If I can't salvage, I will strip and start again - and use the Fox GNER logos instead of the DC ones. And have the most expensive "observation car" in my collection!

Scott

Thanks for the encouragement.

I just got brave, and tried brushing a small amount of "Pledge" (our equivalent of the aero modeller's magic potion "Future"), to the end corridor connection. Sure enough, the bloom disappears - although I'll be more confident when it has sat for 24 hours.

Its good to know this can be solved - but even more, I'd like to know what happened, so I can avoid it in future...

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 17 Nov 2007, 20:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>....'m not surprised its going to work... the bloom is actually a very, very fine surface deposit and as long as the residual water is evaporated out of the paint it'll not come back. I've had the same thing happen and it is "solvable" as a problem.

I'm actually far from you, at DCCconcepts 3/13 Lionel street Naval Base. I build, paint, line and whatever to all my own loco's so if I can ever be of help just ask....

Richard

Here's a shot of the end - hard to believe a gloss varish is all that is needed to make the chalky appearance disappear.

DVT end, after applying Finish

And for those of you watching from the side-lines, appreciate this irony: Here I am, posting a modelling question regarding GNER liveries to a forum in the UK, 10,000 miles away from where am, only to have it answered by someone who not only lives less than 15 minutes from me (I am in Mandurah, Richard!), but who shares my surname.

The truth is indeed stranger than fiction.

Regards

Scott
 
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