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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone.

Hope your all having a good weekend.

Quick question.
Does anyone have a diagram or link of how to have Led indication on display panels with Peco/Seep point motors ?
Using Electrofrog points with switched frog poarity.

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
QUOTE (butler-henderson @ 29 Jun 2008, 18:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Assume you are using an accessory switch/connection on the point motors to switch the frog. You basically need another switch (ie with Peco instead of a PL13 use a PL15 or 2 PL13s although the latter may not be very reliable) wiring the outputs to the LEDs on the control panel. Only thing to be careful is to ensure that circuity is completly independent of the track and point motor power.

Hi There.
Thank you for that. I will look into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 30 Jun 2008, 04:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>***There are two easy solutions. One is to use MASTERswitch which will let you use standard dpdt switches for the point motors and has spare contacts for frog switching + LED drive with memory built in (ex stock at DCC supplies and Bromsgrove as well as from DCCconcepts).

the other is to simply share the SPDT frog polarity contacts.

This can be done providing that the power supply is totally separated from the power supply that provides DCC/track power. An unused mobile phone charger or similar will do the job for the LEDs - no need for an expensive power supply. (these are usually about 200mA or more, and a bog standard red/yellow LED with a 600~1k resistor will be about 3~5mA

ie: one side of LED power direct to each LED, other side of the LED power supply can go to the centre contact (frog contact) and then from the left/right right contact to the respective LED.

this form of "sharing" is quite common - as long as only one side of the circuit is "shared" and the power supplies are totally independent, then no negative interaction will happen. (example - mains power wires through your house are often used as voice transmission wires for a plug in intercom or baby minder)

Richard
DCCconcepts

Hi Richard.
Some time ago I bought a couple of the Masterswitch packs just for experiment at some time. It seems that might be the way to go.

I was going to use the stud & probe type of point switching as its cheap & cheerful for the Peco & Seep type point motors I am using.

Without thinking too hard on a Monday morning,with the masterswitch I would need 3 wires back from each point motor to the control panel. I know one of them will be common to all point motors. All the other wiring can be done at the control panel( Led's etc)
Is this correct ?
How many point motors can each Masterswitch pack control ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you Richard for the explanation.Doing it your way all I need back to the control panel is three thin wires from each point for the Dpdt switch ? Is that correct ?
Forgive me if I have it wrong but Monday is a slow day.lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 30 Jun 2008, 17:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>***Yes Tony - to change the point, just 3 wires.
but... you may need an extra 3 if you are also switching frog polarity using the spare contacts on the DPDT switch though.....

Richard
DCCconcepts

Hi Richard.
Thank you for that. I am using the point motor micro switches to control frog polarity.As you will know those micro switches aren't great so I may end up using the MASTERswitch to change the frog polarity.
All the same i'm glad I got it right even though it is Monday.lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here's a tex version. Hope it helps.Hope Richard doesn't mind.

"First, painting the track: This is done after its all laid with a gray automotive primer aerosol can - of any gray general purpose primer in a can will actually do!

(1) I spray the whole of the track and underlay with Gray aerosol undercoat.

(2) Stain # 1 - a turps based walnut wood stain ( 1 litre can) with equivalent of 2~3 cans of humbrol black and about the same of humbrol leather mixed in. Painted over the track & underlay with a "mop" type soft brush. Takes about 3 minutes a metre to do, no need for care or precision at all.

Let dry at least 24, preferably 48 hours

(3) Then paint rail sides and chairs with stain # 2 - ( 1 litre can) cedar wood stain with a little black and brown (say one can black, two of mid to dark brown + 4 or so of leather/rusty colour. I use a super cheap kids paintbrush as I want stiffish bristles to get this stain into the web and over the chairs. I paint rail sides and chair detail with a single stroke, and it takes only a few minutes to do a respectable length of track like this.

Natural "errors" make some seep onto the sleepers in places, but being largely a stain the look is "softened" and it looks very realistic compared to precise painting of rail and chairs that never looks good to me.

for both stains, keep well stirred or the paint tint settles out.

Using the stains lets the colour flow into the detail areas around chairs without giving a "painting by numbers" look to rail painting - its very natural and realistic that way.

CLEANUP: After each coat/stain: Initially wipe over the top of the track with the end grain of an offcut of timber/ pine block moistened with a little turps to get off most paint (this works really well) , then use a rubber for the little thats left...

OK: Ballasting.

Paint between sleepers and all over the underlay with very slightly thinned (say 2 parts glue, 1 part water). Use a small stiffish kids paintbrush - one that has those "too stiff for most things" synthetic bristles and is super cheap at discount stores).

take care around points of course, but with this method there is much less likelihood of glueing them up anyway!

Paint about 6" at a time, no more or the glue goes off. Spread more ballast than needed and tamp down with a finger. Vaccum off excess and recover for the next section.

Then simply run a stiff-ish brush along rail sides to get the odd bit of unwanted ballst and re-vacuum, and the jobs done.

If you do several slightly 6" sections at a time (about 5 min each) and then after final vaccuming go back and do the gaps, there are no visible joints in the ballasting and the job goes quick enough - with NO furstration and a very neat look!

Overall - undercoating then staining is an added step that for me, makes realism much better - and as to ballasting, applying it the above way takes time, but not so much more than the spreading/glueing/cleanup of the "eyedropper" method, and its far tidier in the end too! Certianly - frustration and "error" is much lower doing it the way suggested above!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
QUOTE (Expat @ 3 Jul 2008, 19:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Tony,

I think you've confused this with another thread.

This one's about LED Point Indicator Lights, not track painting.

Luckily I had printed out Richards diagram so here it is again.

View attachment 498

Cheers,

Expat.

Hi Expat.
What was I thinking of ? You'd think it was Monday all over again.You wouldn't mind but I was the one who started the thread. I better double the dose
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
QUOTE (Expat @ 3 Jul 2008, 19:35) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I don't know about double the dose. Maybe you'de be better coming off it all together. Whatever IT is !!!

Exapt.

Thanks. That makes me feel much better.
 
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